Thanks for your reply!
When I said to ‘turn off’ I mean the second option you provided, my bad, sorry.
Buying another stick just for the ps4 is out of question for me right now. And I think the PS4One is not going to be released soon.
So my option is either wait for a new solution (like PS4One) or use this FC4 PCB.
I might being fussy, but I really don’t want to lose the control panel funcionalities (yes, i use them :p).
What’s the difference if I leave the stock PCB powered on but not connected to anything or disconnect the VCC without removing the PCB itself?
I understand the desire to keep the stock function panel, well, functional; I’m like that as well.
To answer your new questions:
If you leave the PCB powered but not connected to anything, it’ll just sit there. You might be able to tap into using the existing switches or buttons, but that’ll depend on how you solder wires to it.
If you disconnect Vcc from the PCB, you MUST also disconnect Gnd and all other wiring from it as well. The Golden Rule of multi-PCB mods: All boards must have Gnd connected together, all boards must have Vcc connected together. If you don’t, you’re going to get some really weird and erratic behavior coming to/from your button signals. If you disconnect everything from it, there’s no harm in just leaving it there, albeit it ends up just sitting there taking up space.
Well… the GG pad has all it’s points printed clearly on the board and needs no cleaning up. Cutting it down is a different matter though.
The HFC4 on the other hand needs a lot of cleaning up (like removing those horrible trigger pcb’s), and because it has no printing it’s harder to identify the correct points without a multimeter or very good memory.
Hi all! Thanks for this thrad, It is very helpful!
I’m interested in the commander pad from playasia But I have some questions before buying it. I hope someone can help me.
Will this pad work on my PAL playstation 4?
I wanna use the PCB of this pad on the qanba Q4RAF. Can i wire the original qanba pcb and the commander pcb through the imp board?
I performed a pad hack using the Hori PS4 Fight Commander 4 on my new Razer Atrox. It was relatively straightforward. I recognize that my wiring management is atrocious, and I haven’t taken the time to shrink any sleeving or cut the zip ties. I wanted to make sure it works first, which it does on PS3, PS4, XBox One, and PC. I verified this myself on each platform.
I know the soldering and cable management is crap because I am a systems process engineer by profession. I know how wiring should look, but I can’t do it well myself. It’s a bit like a professional food critic who can’t make a simple egg omelette to save his/her life. This is my first mod (one that requires rewiring; I’ve switched out joysticks, buttons, etc.) and probably the 5th time in my life I have done any soldering. It is a miracle this worked out at all. (As a side note, other than being perfect for fighting games, I find this is great for playing Nidhogg, which sort of resembles a fighting game).
Thanks for the reply, @xFuneralx! To answer your question, I use the original slider on the Hori Fighting Commander 4 that switches from PS3 to PS4 to switch between those systems for the Hori PCB. I purchased a regular DPDT (dual pole dual throw) rocker switch (for the D+ and D- outputs through the USB only) from Radio Shack to switch between the Hori PCB and the Razer XBox One PCB.
I figured I didn’t need an Imp or similar PCB since it is convenient enough to just pop open the case and flip a switch. Less wiring = less chances for something to screw up.
I forgot to mention, a big thank you to @Gummo, @FreedomGundam, and everyone else at SRK for this info. Couldn’t have done it without your help. You guys rock.
I have another Hori FC4 that I’ve thought about using for updating my V3 SA Kai, but I’m debating whether to spare it. I’d like to keep one to use without modification as it is a really solid controller (IMO) with a good directional pad and buttons.
I forgot to test the system select switch to see if only reads the state of that input on boot up for the hfc4. I tested it on the gg pad and it only checks when it’d first powered. Meaning you can wire it up to a button and have it switch systems like an imp does.
hmm, anyone know where I can get a hold of xrd pads? Id rather work with them than the FC4, though if push comes to shove I’ll probably just buy a couple FC4s
Issue is the Xrd pads are a limited edition release bundled with the collectors edition of Guilty gear Xrd in Japan.
Your best bet for GG Xrd pads is Yahoo Auctions Japan, you could try eBay or Amazon.
Keep in mind the GG Xrd pad is becoming a collectors item so their prices will sky rocket.
Got to test the system switch on the FC4. It will actually disconnect and switch system mode if you flip the switch. So only the GG pad can have the system switch signal wired to a button.
Ok, so I ran into a strange issue for a FC4 padhack I did. Some info:
I desoldered the switches that swap between PS3/PS4 and DP/LS/RS
I desoldered the L/R shoulder button PCBs
I soldered wires from the PS3/PS4 switch through holes to the pins on the TE Panel Unlock switch so it would be easy to switch consoles without opening the case or installing a third party switch into the case.
My problem: When my friend plays, he gets timed out after 8 minutes and has to switch from PS4 to PS3 and back to PS4 to get connectivity again. Another note, PS4/PS3 mode works fine on a PS3 with no time out issues after several hours. Also, when connecting to a PS3, the switch in either PS4/PS3 mode works and swapping between them does not disconnect the controller. On a PS4, PS3 mode does not work, PS4 mode works, for 8 minutes.
What on earth is wrong? I can’t fathom any reason removing the switches or shoulder pads would cause any issue, but I could be wrong.
Might be a bad security chip.
Why would you want to wire it to the lock switch? That would make you lose home one one system (and start/select depending on model of te).
