Yes, if you leave the potentiometer and trigger mechanism alone then it will be fine.
Optionally you can remove the trigger mechanism, but make sure you use hot glue on the potentiometer dials so that they stay in place.
Thanks lads. There’s a fair few of them madcatz pads goin cheap, they’ve a terrible rap as a pad.
Please anyone. Mine got wired both DP and LS in to LS. Anyone clear which one is DPAD and which one is LS? The RS is correct though.
According to this, there is no clear DP/LS/RS switch so they can be wired wrongly. I dont know what to do now.
http://www.thesupergun.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/IMG_5864_4.png
I can’t find anything with search. But I used used the ps3/4 mkx pdp pad to padhack my stick.
While in my stick the ps3/4 switch fell off and it won’t work in any game. It will work when I turn the ps4 on and can go through the ps4 menu and everything works fine. But won’t work in sfv or guilty gear. But I can still use the home button and share button while sf and gg are running.
Anyone know anything?
This happens whenever a button is shorted when connecting to the console. Look for the usual suspects;
• Loose wiring that’s grounding one of your inputs.
• Too much solder that’s shorting an input to grd.
There's windows desktop apps to look for "chatter" on your inputs but your eyes and a multimeter checking for a short should be enough. *set your dmm to give an audible tone for closed circuits.I tried to get help in the QnA-thread, but no one answered, so ill try here aswell!
Im helping a friend dualmod his Qanba Q4 for ps4-compability, with a DPDT-setup. I went with the Hori Mini since it’s easy to get a hold off in sweden. But im having trouble making the trigger work. I’ve done like 10 dualmods before, and i think my soldering skills are decent, and even so i’ve redone the soldering to rule that out, but with the same result.
This happens:
[list]
[] Both of the PCBs seem to be working when i tested them individually.
[] When i solder the trigger-pins on the Hori to the trigger-pins on the Qanba, the triggers on the Hori are always on (tested with a PC), except for the i push down the RT/LT-button, then they switch off. All the other inputs work.
[] On the Qanba side, however, as soon as i press any button it seems to short the all of the buttons and joystick, so that they are always on, except for the triggers, which works correctly.
[] When connecting the button directly from the Hori PCB to the button and bypassing the Qanba, it does not seem to ground, and the Qanba works normally.
[/list]
Have anyone else encountered problems with the Hori Mini or is it maybe the Qanba?
Only issue with the qanba is with the early versions the rt/lt are active high so the button is signal plus vcc instead of gnd.
Never really used the hori mini pcb, but I’m pretty sure it has the same issue as other ps4 pcbs where all the signals are held low if the pcb doesn’t recognize the system (like if it’s not plugged into a ps3/4 or pc).
Ok, forgot to mention that if i dont connect the triggers from the Hori at all, everything else works fine.
It´s probably an early Qanba version im dealing with. If it has something to do with the first thing you mentioned, can i fix it somehow? Or should i look for another Xbox-pcb?
You could use a hex inverter for the triggers.
thanks for the details on the pads 
what happened to the pictures? I can’t see most of them.
Photobucket happened
Longtime Shoryuken reader. First time poster!
I’m currently building a 4-player PS3/PS4/Retropie cabinet utilizing four Hori Fight Commander 4s (updated model), a USB hub and an HDMI switch. I have this working great so far with 2x HFC4s, the 2x switches and the three systems with a big thanks to the system select switch on the gamepads. I’m looking to have three push-buttons for switching across the systems on the control panel which will require me to rewire the 3-way SPDT switch on the gamepad to a push-button per system (i.g. PS3/PS4/Retropie), I would then daisy chain each system button across all 4 gamepads and eventually work the HDMI switch in there as well. I just need a little help wiring the thing. I’m testing with a multimeter using the common ground to switch between the three system select pins but no luck. Any ideas guys?
Diagram:
https://i.imgur.com/3KcB02b.jpg
3-way SPDT switch on HFC4 - Front:
https://i.imgur.com/1qIdKzl.jpg
3-way SPDT switch on HFC4 - Back:
https://i.imgur.com/Rjd4AuI.jpg
P.S.
You can try using https://archive.org/web/ to look at the pictures, I had some success with it.
Hi guys, need some help with an strange issue here. Just finished a stick with Hori FC4 pad hacked, tested it with the PC and everything was working fine at the properties tab (or so I believed). Ok, time to go play something, that’s when things got hairy.
Tested with Tekken 7 and SFV, and at both it was causing some strange lag, not really lag to be honest, frame drops around 50 fps and the frametime become a mess.
Reboot the system (with the FC4 disconnected) and connected my older stick with the Tchullu PCB, everything was smoth as usual. Played for over 1 hour, closed the game and put the FC4 again, my PC enter into sleep mode (WTF???).
I guess there is some driver conflict happening or something like it going on but really don’t know what to do.
Edit: Working perfectly at the PS4, so it’s not the pcb or same mistake at the padhack
Windows 10 64bits.
Someone has a clue please??
Gonna be padhacking the Hori Mini Wired Gamepad since it has a built in 10ft cable. Has anybody done a padhack with that controller because it seems like it can be easy to pad hack without issues.
I was actually going to post in here to ask about this pad. I want to get one to dual mod with an x1 pad so if you can let me know if it is common ground it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
It’s possible, but I hope I don’t have to solder in resistors. I took a look at the pcb, and the trigger buttons are connected via wire(same with the joysticks). I’m gonna remove the solder form the wires, and check to see if they work without resistors. gonna be busy, but I’ll post if it’s a month from now.
I’m also just gonna pick one up. I mean it’s only 20 bucks so even if it is a little weird, I’ll just throw it in a stick by itself. I’ll also post my findings in here when I get the time.
OK so here are some pics of the Hori Mini wired Gamepad
inside the case
Taken out and I labeled the signal spots just for ease. the other side is obviously the ground.
You can see its pretty much 3 or I guess 5 different boards. Mainboard, analog stick board, Touch panel control board(really weird ill explain below), and the 2 bumper and trigger boards.
closeup of both bumper and trigger boards
they both say the exact same thing, interestingly I don’t see a potentiometer like in normal analog triggers but instead looks to be some kind of analog to digital converter or something. At least that’s what I assume as you can see ADC printed on the PCB.
back of the pad with share and right labeled since they were the only ones without a label. Also touch is not labeled but I didn’t need a solder spot for touch on the back.
points are labeled on both sides(except share I think) but they all look very nice and easy to solder to. Seems nice for dual mods especially because I can solder to both the back and front.
Closeup of the ribbon cable connecting the analog joysticks
also very nicely labeled.
The pad looks easy enough to solder up and its small enough to put into a stick without much trouble especially if you know how to neutralize the pots so you can remove the analog stick board completely. I don’t know how to do that but I am sure some more experienced modders have experience with that.
The triggers actually come up in game controllers on windows as both axis movement and a digital button so I will experiment with removing that whole board and see if the main board sees it as active.
There is a touchpad button and that button works just fine. However this pad also has what they call a touchpad control button( the bottom pcb) and the way it works is you have to press this button for 3 seconds and then click R3 or L3 and once you do that you can use the analog stick of whichever you pressed in order to control touch movement. This is not necessary for sticks but if you wanted it you would need to incorporate the LS or the RS into your stick because dpad wont work for that.
I think that’s all for this pad really and for 20 bucks it seems like a pretty easy pad to put into a stick as long as there are no problems that come up with the triggers when I try to dual mod later on which I will also post follow up to.
EDIT: After some quick tests, you can remove the touch panel control and bumper/trigger boards without any funkyness going on with the main board. I will also update the pic of the back and circle where right and share are as they are not immediately identifiable.
Also the triggers are weird as they activate when connected to power rather than gnd. Can I somehow change this using an inverter chip?
If you can’t change the way the triggers activate then this pad is really only good for 6 button dual mods or sticks where it’s the only pcb. So it works for me for 20 bucks but may not work for all.
**FINAL EDIT: last night I was being a dumb dumb. A simple inverter chip mod with a 74xx04 type chip will work. I messed up last night by soldering to the wrong pins.
All you have to do is
-connect the ADC point from the pcb to pin 14 on the chip
-connect R2 and L2 to pin 2 and 4 on the chip
-connect pin 1 and 3 to their respective buttons
-connect 7 to ground
Now the trigger buttons will activate when shorted with ground just like the other butons.
So this pad in the end is just the same as any pad that needs trigger inverting. A very simple PS4 Pad with a touch pad button for 20 bucks.
**
ANOTHER EDIT: you will also need diodes for this pad if you decide to dual mod it. I will post in a couple days with the diodes installed to give last final edit.
LAST FINAL EDIT
Ok here is the pad in its final form(hmmm playing too much DBFZ). It is currently inside my stick wired to this xbox one controller https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16874822011
Which was bought for 10 bucks.
It has
-Diodes on each button - only needed if you are going to be dual modding it.
-Trigger inverting - only needed if you are going to be using the triggers otherwise you can just use R1 and L1.
-Right Analog stick and Left Analog stick stabilized - only need to do if you want to remove the Left and Right analog stick attached pcb
As you can see the main pcb is actually quite small if you remove the LS and RS board, but in order to do so you need to stabilize the analog stick pots which is actually quite easy.
Here is a closeup of the front main pcb that you have to modify in order to stabilize the pots.
and here is a closeup of the back
You need two 10kohm resistors for this. Other values may work but thats all I had on hand and since they worked I did not measure the range of the pots with a multimeter.
What you are doing is essentially stabilizing the values of the axes between high and low.
In order to do this you connect one of the resistors between the points on the board named V_ctl and LX and the other resistor between the points named GND and RY(see closeup of the front for how I did this)
You then bridge points LX and LY together and RX and RY together. I just used solder for this as the points are so close( you can also see this on the pic with the closeup of the front)
Now to finish all you need to do is bridge LY and RX. I just used a small piece of wire to do this. (see closup of the back). After you bridge those two points you are done and your analog sticks will no longer be floating and randomly going off in every which direction.
Thoughts on this pad.
-Depending on the type of mod and if you have any type of soldering and modding experience then this pad could be a buy over a brook ps3/ps4 board because it is half the price. I recently made my friends some sticks and wish I would have known about the existence of this pad before I had bought two brook boards because that would have saved me just about 50 bucks and I get no extra functionality from the brook than I do this pcb.
-This pad will never have an 8 minute time out with new releases of firmware because it is an officially licensed controller. This is not really a knock against brook though because brook usually has a patch within 24 hours fixing that issue when Sony updates their firmware. Its just something I thought I should add.
-If using for a hitbox this pad may not be a better choice than the brook because it doesn’t have and SOCD cleaner like the brook actually has which means you would have to shell out more money for that functionality.
All in all I am extremely happy with this pad and hope that most of the information in here is coherent enough to follow if you want to do a similar mod
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Good stuff @sikwidit I ordered a IC today, you saved me the time and energy of having to test the bumper panels. Thanks for the input, and once I have time i’ll upload some pictures of the finished design. (note: I am terrible at cable management.)