Hi, I’m new here and this is my first post so forgive me, but I couldn’t find any info about this fightstick on SRK and the only info on Google is all in Korean. I’m hoping someone has experience with it, and can maybe tell me if it’s possible to dual mod or attach a secondary board to it while using the original function buttons.
Also, this stick case/design seems to be rebranded and sold under other names, the ones I’ve found are: GameSir C2 (universal, needs controller like MayFlash), Dragon Slay DGSAK17 (universal, same), Gorilla Gaming Pro Fightstick (PS4 native support).
Basic stuff about the stick:
PC/Android compatible, can be used wired or wireless via 2.4ghz dongle, 500mah internal rechargeable battery(others state 800mah), D/X-input switchable, all legit Sanwa buttons and JLF lever, updatable firmware?, really solid plastic body w/metal bottom plate.
My experience so far:
I’ve tested it with a Raspberry Pi 3B both wired and wireless in D-input and it works flawlessly. I don’t have a PC so can’t test it there, but gonna try it on PS4 & PS3 just for the heck of it. I’d love for it to work on PS4 especially, but either way I bought it cuz it was a steal! Got it on fleabay for just under $45, kinda beat up box but stick was flawless. I figured the Sanwa components are worth the cost alone, and I could just add a Brooks or padhack if necessary.
In summary:
I’m hoping this will work on PS4 or even PS3, I also noticed a feature mentioned on the box is “updatable firmware”, though the lemall site doesn’t even list this product anymore and there’s no downloads to be found. But I did find a firmware update program on the Gorilla Gaming site for their version of the stick… I wonder if the boards in all of these are actually the same?? I don’t really wanna risk it cuz I’ll have no way to reflash the original firmware lol. I might just try a padhack with the Hori mini PS4 gamepad if it doesn’t work on PS4 already. Pics of the main board are in one of the reviews linked below.
Ok so I wanted to update this with something odd I found out… I tried using this stick with SFV on PS4 and though it didn’t work natively it popped up right away using the in-game Legacy Mode! And it even worked wirelessly via the dongle! But it wasn’t all good as the buttons were mapped incorrectly and some buttons just couldn’t be remapped.
I actually really like the build and overall feel of this stick so it was kinda disappointing that I couldn’t use it with PS3/4 as is.
So my new goal is to make this into my main K-stick for Tekken, and I want to add in one of those Brook PCBA boards while making use of the stock button panel for Home, Options, Share, etc… But I also want to keep the original board’s functionality for the convenient wireless mode.
I guess this would be considered a dual mod? Can I just put a switch on the USB’s VCC/5V and then wire up the Brook like normal while keeping the original board’s connections intact as well?
I don’t know much outside of replacing the stock board for another single board, so any help would be appreciated! For now I’ll check out other dual mod builds, but my main issue is how to use of the original board’s front panel buttons for the new board.
The box doesn’t say anything about PS4 or PS3 support, so there’s that.
It works on PS3 because that console was very lax on controllers, so most standard HID devices/controllers will work fine on it (for example, the Nintendo/Hori Pokken controller, or the PowerA Switch Wired Controller, works just fine on a PS3).
Since it works on a PS3, it’s not surprising that Legacy Mode works fine with it on a PS4 in SFV.
Back on topic, yes, you would be looking at a dual-mod. Follow the golden rules for dual-modding and you’ll be fine.
VCC must be connected between both boards at all times
GND must be connected between both boards at all times
Never plug the combination into more than one console at any time.
Yeah I bought it hoping it would work but prepared for it not to lol. It was a good deal either way, and I ended up liking it’s solid construction and the wireless feature for playing retro stuff on the Pi.
Ok so following the rules you listed and having both VCC&GND constantly connected to both boards, how would I do the switching between the boards? It sounds like both boards would be powered any time it’s plugged in, so can I just put a DPDT switch on both of the data lines to choose which board will be active? I want to have it with both boards using the one original USB cable, while adding a simple toggle switch hidden in the cable compartment to pick between them.
Ok it’s been quite a while, but I’ve finally gotten all the bits and bobs for this dual mod project. I’m going to be padhacking a Hori mini PS4 gamepad, and so I got some diodes, some 10k resistors, a hex inverter, and a DPDT switch. Looks like I got a lot of soldering ahead of me…
But first I need to go back and re-read that dual modding thread, cuz I have some noob questions about the diodes, first of all, how do you know if you need them or not? And then which direction should they be facing/from which board should they allow current flow?
I’m going to wire the gamepad signals directly to this fightstick’s original PCB, so I’m guessing I want the diodes also pointing to/blocking from the original board?
So turns out there was no info about diodes in the dual modding 101 thread, but I did find the info here in the Third party PS4 padhack options thread.
Basically to sum it up, when dual modding you need both PCBs connected to power and ground at all times, but some PCBs will register it’s signals low(grounded) if the PCB is powered but not active(USB data lines not connected), and this makes it seem like all the buttons are being held down.
So to resolve this you need to add a diode (ex: 1N4148 Switching Diode) to each signal line with the anode connected to the new board, and the cathode connected to the original board; basically have the little black line on the diode pointing toward your original board.
Also, found this handy little schematic (by Toodles) about hex inverting triggers. This is to make the triggers activate low instead of high, so that they can be connected to buttons using the same common ground as the rest of the board, as well as the ground of the original PCB if dual modding:
Yeah I’d definitely recommend it if you can find it for a good price, especially if you only plan on using it with PC. I haven’t actually used it a whole lot cuz I don’t play on PC, and that’s why I’m now padhacking it for PS4, but it’s worked great every chance I’ve had to use it. It’s built really well, easy to open up for modding, and comes stock with all Sanwa parts, also the wireless feature is nice.
Just curious, where did you find it for sale? Cuz this stick isn’t really common.
No problem. Also, here’s a YouTube video I found about the DragonSlay version of this stick. It’s a really long video but the guy does show a lot and changes out some of the stock parts.
Quick update on the padhack. I disassembled the Hori Mini PS4 Pad, desoldered all the parts off of the main board, and added the diodes to each signal output. Messed up pretty bad on the touchpad button, did the best I could with no solder wick on hand, but overall it wasn’t too difficult even for a noob like me.
I also took apart the LeGFS-201 to look for a spot to put the board. Luckily it’s actually really tiny without all the secondary boards attached; this mini pad seems really good for padhacks, not just it’s size but also the contacts take solder really easy too, if only it didn’t require diodes… So yeah, I got the stick taken apart and then I found a nice spot for the new board, it wedges in between two posts and practically holds itself in.
Following the post by sikwidit that I linked above, next I’m gonna neutralize the analogs with some 10K resistors and add the hex inverter chip for the triggers. After that I just need to connect the two boards with some wire and hook up the DPDT switch on the USB data lines.
The only thing I need to figure out now is which contact is the signal line for the top panel buttons. They’re all tac switches tho so hopefully I can solder onto them without much trouble. For the other signals, I’m gonna solder onto the JST connector pins sticking out the through holes on the back of the board. First I need to find out how to remove that glue on the connectors tho.
I’ll update this with my progress.
Took out the main board of the LeGFS-201, for some reason they put tape over the lock and battery LEDs. I’m kinda nervous about the small points I need to attach the wire to, I’m using 22awg but I really should’ve got some thinner gauge stuff for this… Just looking at it, I think I need to solder onto the bottom pins for the front panel tac switches. Gonna use the Back, Home, Start, L3, R3, and Mode buttons; they all show traces connecting to the bottom left pin, except Home which has traces coming from the top and bottom right pins. Does it even matter which pin I solder to, as long as it’s not one connected to ground?
Ok I’m pretty much done, got the two boards wired to each other and then hooked up the USB data lines to a switch that I put in the cable compartment. Also soldered up a Crown 309FJ and made a 5 pin adapter to the original connector using some breadboard jumper wires.
Here’s how it looks now, kinda messy but I tried to hide most of it under the left side panel (excuse the unshrunken heatshrink I had to redo some wiring).
So right now it’s all working fine, flip the switch, plug it in, press the home button, and it’s all golden pony boy! Except it wasn’t, at first… I had issues with the directional inputs, up=right, right=down, etc., seems that the PCB labels were wrong. So I redid the D-pad wires and now all inputs are working, 4 directional and 8 action buttons. Also the original indicator lights for wired connection and D-input turn on when switched to the new board, the original key lock button doesn’t work tho, and the battery charge light doesn’t turn on unless I toggle the switch to the original board, after that it’ll stay on even if I switch back to the new board.
The other original top panel buttons work but there’s just one last issue with the Home button on the top panel, it does work but it acts like it’s being held down constantly. For example if I press it when in a game, instead of returning to home it’ll bring up the PS quick menu.
I think it may be related to the stick’s original wireless function, where you can press the Home button to search for the 2.4ghz dongle. This works whether the switch is toggled to the original board or the new board cuz it operates independent of the USB and it’s data lines. Does anyone have any idea how to fix this? Maybe I should try a different leg on the home button tac switch?
A bit more info about the Home button issue: I did a test by turning on the zoom accessability setting (the shortcut is PS + Square to zoom) and so pressing Square alone will trigger the zoom, since the PS/Home button is acting like it’s being held down. I noticed that if I actually log out of the user account and then log back in, the Square button will no longer trigger zoom, I’m guessing this is because the stick is essentially disconnecting when you log out?
After this everything is normal, but if I ever press the PS/Home button again, it’ll bring up the long hold quick menu and also from that point on it’ll act like it’s constantly being held down, and therefore pressing Square will now trigger zoom again.
Tldr; If I don’t press PS/Home apart from when initially logging in, the stick will behave normally. But the PS button will always do a long hold action if pressed, I can’t get it to do the single click action. In addition, after the PS button is pressed it will behave as if it is being held down from that point on. What’s odd is that it’s not stuck held down entirely, but only after pressing the button does it act that way.
I have no idea how to fix this other than maybe swapping it with the less important TP click which is currently connected to the original Mode button, but I think then it’ll just be TP click being held down instead…
Does anyone have any clue on what might be causing this long press/hold down issue or how to possibly fix it? Could it be a bad diode or do you think it’s actually related to the original wireless function being activated by the same button?
Ok so I finally got a hold of a PC to check the inputs using the joy.cpl controller tester program, and this is what I got. The HoriPad shows that button 13, the Home button, is stuck held down the entire time, and pressing the button will trigger the input causing it to flash off for a second then go back to being held. Pretty sure that’s the sign of a bad diode, so I’m just gonna try to swap it for a new one and hopefully that’ll fix it.
There’s 3 modes/controller options on this stick now, so I’ll just show them all for the sake of information.
Controller 1 (Padhack): HORIPAD mini4
Buttons:
1- Square
2- Cross
3- Circle
4- Triangle
5- L1
6- R1
7- L2 & X Rotation 0 to 100
8- R2 & Y Rotation 0 to 100
9- Back/Select/Share
10- Start/Option
11- L3
12- R3
13- Home (STUCK HELD DOWN)
14- Mode/TouchPad
Ok so I tried switching the diode with a new one, no luck, still stuck input. So I tried some other things, used the controller tester again and I noticed that if I hold down the PS/Home button the input will turn off.
I also tried rewiring the Select/Share front panel button to PS/Home on the HoriPad and it correctly triggered input 13. Then I tried the opposite, wiring the panel Home button to Select/Share and it correctly showed input 9 being held down.
So it has something to do with the connection to the original front panel Home button… either a short to ground or something else?? It behaves in reverse, normally low/active and high/open when pressed.
I’m gonna take it all apart again to check the connection to the Home button tactile switch… maybe I just need to solder it to a different leg like I thought in the beginning?
Since it’s held active except for when pressed, maybe it could be inverted with the same hex inverter as the triggers?
Edit*
I tried the other leg on the Home button tac switch and that gave no inputs. So I gave up and just soldered it to the Key Lock button (which was previously unused in padhack mode), tested it and button 13/Home is now working correctly except for that it’s connected to the wrong button lol.
I still want to have it hooked up correctly, with Home actually being Home, but for now this will do and it’s better than it was before…
