They are the connectors on the board
so basically i need to remove every connector from the stock pcb (te2+) , stick directions, buttons(x,L2,L1,âŚ),buttons (ps,sm,options,share) , and wire them to the mkx pad (cathode side)?
yep
@Vicko or anyone who can help.
I am setting up the below and want to confirm how does LED work on dual modding?
Currently the main PCB have the LED lighting up, if I am to add another PCB as a dual mod. Is it a simple signal exchange from my new PCB? or does extra wiring required to get the LED working as well?
Thanks.
Just connect all the inputs and power/ground to all PCBs.
@Vicko Normally, the GRD and VCC are a must for both boards. As for the connection for buttons and direction, I normally just connect the signals only from the second PCB to the main PCB.
Is this sufficient? or is it different for LED dual modding? eg: instead of just signal from the secondary PCB, I should connect the grounds as well?
Thanks.
just daisy chain them all together. Itâs essentially a tri mod. A to A to A, B to B to B, etc
@Vicko But my second pcb donât have the extra two wires for each of the LEDs which my first PCB have? would I somehow need to get my secondary PCB to have those extra LED wires?
Youâre only wiring the inputs, not the LEDs. So itâs basically a dual mod. If the first PCB already has the LEDs connected, you donât need to wire them all together.
If your first PCB is fine with LEDs, just connect all the inputs from the 2nd PCB to the first one. Donât worry about the LEDs.
Just checking before I go through with this. A fine grit sand paper would be a safe way to remove the rubber covers on the Hori FC4 for soldering right?
I scrape with an xacto knife, but just solder on the back using the test points. Less work, much cleaner.
So I take it the metal plates underneath them are not easily damaged if youâre using a fucking xacto knife to scrap the rubber off.
Depends how rough you are. By your tone it seems you are in disbelief that this is acceptable. I said an xacto knife, not a chainsaw.
First of all, itâs graphite, not rubber.
Second, you donât need a lot of force or even a sharp blade to scrape it. Be gentle and patient and youâll be fine. Or, go get a scraper from Radio Shack like Gummo posted in the first party ps4 hack thread.
Finally, you donât need to scrape the entire face of the pad off, just enough to solder to.
Be a champ and solder to the back.
Always a great help.It is barely harder than using a quarter to scrape off a scratch and win ticket! LOL
Sweet. Thanks for going on side tangents about graphite, soldering to the back, & scrappers from a store that is out of business instead of actually answering my question directly. Seriously is it so hard to have said. âNo, you should be fine doing it that wayâ
Radio shack is plenty in business, and then thereâs eBay, Amazon, etc.
Also, your attitude needs to be corrected before I just come out and spoon feed you anything. I think I am doing a better service educating you rather than coddling you. My answers are for everyone, not just you.
Thats depends where you are located, all the Radio Snacks near me went out of business, and I am not driving an hour for over price components when I can order the same or better parts cheaper online.
8 bucks for 5 resistors is crazy, especially when I can get a 100 resistors for $5 on Amazon.
My project with the PCBs Paewang and Hori Commander 4, working perfectly with the tutorials posted here. Thanks guys
Hey guys I have a stupid issue with my HC4. I tried to remove the screw to open the pad but 5 out of the 8 screw heads died while I tried to remove them. I tried to use a bigger screw to mark an indent and then use it to unscrew to no effect. Any idea ???