I have recently purchased two Fighting Commander 4 for Street Fighter V on PS4 but I haven’t succeeded in logging them as Player 1 and Player 2.
Every time I hit the PS button, the controller takes over the other one as Player 1.
Both controllers are in PS4 mode.
I have found a workaround but I don’t think this is ideal: I have switched one of the controller on PS3 mode and made it recognized as “Legacy controller”.
It requires a DualShock 4 to be connected…
But I have tried connecting both the controllers in PS3 mode on PS3 and there is no problem on that system.
They register as Player 1 and Player 2 (as it should).
Does anyone has had an issue with two Hori FC4s PS4 authentification at the same time ?
[list]
[] Sign in as normal on P1
[] Sign in a second user (eg guest)
[*] Use the second controller, when you press home you should now get the option to choose which profile you want to load
[/list]
I am thinking the whole guess/user thing is more trouble than it’s worth.
Is it necessary to load up the other person profile and user name from the network?
Yes I know there is the generic GUESS option, Also console have multiple users, but it was alot more simple before.
Before it was plug in your controller and hit start
I was wondering if anyone could help me with a PS360+ (with Crosssbone mod for XB1) / FC4 dual mod. I’m having an issue similar to someone earlier in this thread where the controller will randomly disconnect. According to the discussion in the thread, it seems the issue can be solved by adding a diode somewhere in the circuit. Unfortunately I had purchased this from someone rather than doing it myself and I’m not super familiar with the circuitry, whether they had put a diode, and if not, where/how I do this. Here are some images of the board, and any advice would be appreciated!
Ok so I am looking to buy a PS4 mkx fightpad. Im looking to add this into my MAS arcade stick. Which currently has an xbox 360 madcatz fight pad pcb. I daisy changed the ground to all the buttons and Im using a wico perfect 360 joystick so I need the 5v. I wanted to add the MKX pcb in it. So it will have both pcbs in it. Will i run into any issues? Also how do I wire it so I can use both ps3 and ps4 because I want to use it on my pc for mame. Please help me And thank you. All your help is appreciated
I love to help, but I see nothing wrong from the wiring it self. There is some things I would of done differently but that wouldn’t cause or prevent a electrical issue.
I am curious whats the DB 15 connectors for. I am all for work that can be taken apart, but the DB15 looks redundant to me.
Can you tell me more about the disconnects, does it happens on all systems or only certain ones?
Also did you try to swap your USB Cable going from your stick with a different one?
Sometimes it’s something stupid like a damaged USB cable.
Darksakul, thanks for your reply! So the DB15 connectors are so I have a quick disconnect for the top of the stick. That was at my request as I wanted two tops: one with a Street Fighter 8-button configuration, and one with an old Mortal Kombat (“X” style) config. With the DB15 connector, I just have to unscrew the top (screws access through the bottom of the case), and switch the connection so it’s way faster than any other way of doing it, at least that we thought of. (On a side note, I ultimately switched to pad for MK, and on top of that, the guy who I bought this from (who is fairly well-known) still hasn’t delivered the MK top, and I ordered it in August!) The whole reason for the custom build was to get the changable tops, as well as space for IL parts, which I prefer. And I wanted to keep PS2 compatability so that’s why we did the padhack plus the PS360+ (and the Brooks didn’t exist when I ordered so I guess that plus PS360+ could have been an option). So now I feel dumber, since I could now have used a Brook, I don’t use a stick for MK, the guy did such a bad job on the finish that I took it apart and sanded it down and am currently repainting/restaining it, and I now see that there is a fellow by the name of Souji who makes sticks with IL/Happ. So basically I really regret this entire endeavor, but for what he charged me (an astronomical sum, about triple what Soiji does for a basic stick), I really want to make this work.
The disconnects seem to happen randomly. Interestingly, I still haven’t gotten one on my personal PS4, but at casuals and tournaments, it has disconnected. All in all, it’s probably happened on at least 5 different PS4s. I’ve even gotten them when the other player connects their stick, which is why I thought this might have something to do with power/voltage. But otherwise it’s random, and it can go well over 8 minutes without a problem, then all of a sudden, it will disconnect.
I did try swapping the USB cable to rule that out as the cause, both shorter and newer. I have 3 RJ45 to USB cables, and it’s disconnected on all of them.
Can I ask you about the diode that’s been previously mentioned in the thread, several pages back. Is that something that would address a power/voltage issue? From the pictures, does it look like he used a diode? (Or if unclear, I can take more.) Thanks again!
EDIT: Just thinking about the cable, I wonder if the fact that I’m using RJ45 on the stick end rather than USB might be contributing to the problem? Anything about RJ45 that the Hori pad, or the PS4 itself, might not like? Just spit-balling…
If using the mkx ps4 fight pad in a stand alone mod. I know it does not need any diodes. How do I use the PS3/ps4 switch to go back and forth from PS3 to ps4? Or can j just make it dedicated to only ps4? Thank you
No this isn’t it as electrically everything should be still the same. Your electronics don’t care what connectors you use.
I am wondering why the RJ45 connector is hot glued into place into the PS360+.
That could of have the retaining pin broken off, and the glue started to stretch but that is just a though.
Well for diodes
Last I check its the PDP Mortal Kombat X FightPad that needs diodes and not the Hori Fighting Commander 4.
I even done Dual mods with the Hori Fighting Commander 4 and didn’t need diodes.
For our applications any signal diode would do, despite the material of the semiconductor or the housing to the diode it self.
You can also get away with a Zener Diode , a Schottky Diode or a rectifier diode. as long as the diode acts as a one way check valve.
And don’t worry too about the milliamp rating, your PCB isn’t going to supply enough power on those signal lines to hurt any diodes.
If you read the link I left, I already covered that and even the mouser and digikey part numbers
Digikey part # : 568-1360-2-ND and the Mouser part # 771-1N4148-T/R
They are about 10 cents each, apparently at this time those particular diodes aren’t available but the Digikey page does offer alternatives.
So at 10 cents apiece 100 diodes is about $10 dollars, toddler316’s diodes are approx 5 cents each.
I’m a fan of both digikey and mouser and have ordered from them before but especially with a one off part, shipping kills it unfortunately.
My orders to those sites tend to only be when i absolutely cannot find one anywhere else that i trust, or in bulk.
Ok so after reading This thread and the dual modding 101 thread. I can say I have a decent understanding a good direction on what to do. My only thing is how to switch from PS3 to ps4 and pc. In any case that would be irrelevant since I plan on only using the stick for street fighter 5 and Xbox 360
i have a stick i just bought, it´s a te2+ ryu edition for ps3/ps4, i bought a mkx pad for xbox one/360, i´ve wired everything up, i bought diodes. cathode is soldered to the mkx pad and the anode to the te2+ pcb, i know if i solder the cathode to the button wire it´s working, but i would pretty like to use the connectors on the te2+ pcb side. i mean someway that i dont need to wire from the mkx pad to the button. any help? ideas?
