I ended up Dual modding it with a Hori Mini 4 pcb using a dtdp switch (like I always do). The PS4 works great but now the Xbox one side gets all crazy as soon as I plug in the controller. It’s like it activates a bunch of inputs and the just stops working. Everything on the PS4 works great. Does anyone know what it might be?
Sounds like you didn’t follow the golden rules of modding
Actually, if the xb1 side is acting funny, the diodes would need to be on the hori mini. Xb1 should behave as necessary. I haven’t used that pcb so I dunno.
I did connect ground and Vcc, if that’s what you’re referring to.
Any word on the Hori Pokken pcb being common ground?
Yeah i didn’t see you had another post, my bad.
I’m new to pad hacking. What is the easiest pad to use to padhack for a custom PS4 stick?
Read the enitre thread. Everything already has been covered.
I’m gonna go for this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fighting-Commander-PS4-PS3-PC/dp/B017QORK8W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458580321&sr=8-1&keywords=Fighting+Commander+(PS4%2FPS3%2FPC)
Good choice? It seems to be the easiest. Ideally I wanted to padhack an actual DS4, because having the option to use wireless sounds really good, but the thread that details the steps really scared me.
No one does the DS4 pad hack anymore, its just too much effort for too little in return, especially when there is so many other options now.
I ended up buying it it should arrive within a few weeks from japan. I am a complete noob when it comes to doing something like this. Hope I don’t mess this up, gonna search the net for tutorials and what NOT to do.
Where do you live?
On the bottom and top side PCB, what is labeled are your signals. Ground point on bottom side PCB is labeled as well, while on the top side PCB they are numerous… for example, lower left on JP1 labeled “GRD”, USB cable connector to PCB labeled “G”, Shoulder button connector labeled “3”.
Go to Slagcoin - PCB Wiring and give it a read before attempting. If you can get a hand on a prototype board, you can practice your soldering on that.
I was talking about the new version of the hori fighting commander pcb that you just posted earlier, I’m planning to daisy chain the ground signals, but because I don’t have the equipment, I won’t be able to tell which side of the button contacts are signal or ground. I mean something like this: http://s27.postimg.org/fljk9hykv/ground_and_signal.jpg
Ok question number 2: How can I tell which one of the wires of the 5pin harness of the sanwa jlf joystick is up down left right ground. I plan to connect a sanwa stick to the hori pad: http://s9.postimg.org/ve6dgr2vv/joystick.jpg
I’m sorry for asking such basic noob questions, but I have been googling and searching, and can’t seem to find answers to the most basic stuff. Thanks for the link, I will read it thoroughly once I get the chance. All the help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks dude! That’s exactly the kind of thing I was looking for.
Hey everyone. I’m experiencing issue with my padhack on the HFC4 on PC: it seems on certain USB port the pad is not detected due to too long cable.
I have no issue on my USB hub on my screen and it works flawlessly on PS4 and PS3.
At first I thought it was because of voltage/amps drops, but after some quick testing (a USB Y cable) it’s not that. I’ll need to test with different lenght of cable.
Anybody have the same issue? If yes, how did you get rid of that, except the obvious shorter usb cable, which will be my last option. I’m currently using the original HFC4 cable.
Use a USB repeater. Pretty common issue
Thanks, that’s what I was afraid of. 
I’ve found some cheap active repeater I’ll give a shot.