finally got the time to do it. it wasn’t as easy as I thought. you can tell the those two button things I ruined. thanks for all the peeps that helped.
you need to watch the soldering video that darksakul posts 10x a day
Just search for “how to solder” on Youtube, their at least a dozen videos I saw and watch that covers everything you want to know.
Here is my favorite as it describes and demonstrates the technque, and it shows you what to do and not to do.
https://youtu.be/IpkkfK937mU
it’s a little dry but it its all the important points for beginners
This one is old, but it a good series on the topic, this is part one
https://youtu.be/vIT4ra6Mo0s
Only thing that changed since 1980 is the wide use of Lead-free solder.
here a how-to video by SRK tech Talk member @Nerrage
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wX1dZIC0Gp0
Our EU users may not be able to use lead solder as its harder to find now.
Keep your wires short, you should not have any extra exposed metal.
Your soldering should not look like this
http://i.imgur.com/UuaTG.jpg
I will watch those videos when I get the time, midterms are due this week. I learned a lot by going through this whole thread and help on the questions thread.
the main problem I had was the practice kit I used only had lead free solder and when I finally decided to do the padhack I did it with solder with lead in it. which is different from lead free so I had to learn while doing it.
I tested the stick last night and my R1 doesn’t work and from what I’ve seen it looks ok.
I’m gonna really look at it closely next week and see what’s up with it.
it’s the white wire on the top right. it’s weird cause it’s the one that looks the best.
Its not bad work, but you can always get better.
here is some tips
Next time try to twist your wires more before you solder them.
Pre-tint your wires and soldering points before making the soldering join will give you a better bond.
Perhaps cleaning up those solder points some more wouldn’t hurt
yeah, I’m gonna go back and try to fix that button that doesn’t work and clean up the rest. thanks for the vids and the tips.
after some deliberation, i want to settle for a gg pad. anyone know where i can find one nowadays?
eBay is the only place I’ve seen them. they’re hard to come by since it came in a limited edition box and only in jp iirc.
anyone have any experience with the padhacking the Hori Fighting Edge? mostly just looking to see anyone who’s worked with that capacitive touch pad thingy. I searched but havent seen anything.
curious as to why that one when the FC4 is super easy to work with… or even just getting a Brook board
I’ve posted pinouts in the FE thread.
GG randomly had an 8 minute timeout, i wouldn’t trust it, especially when the brook is a way better option.
found it, thanks a ton, and especially for that heads up with the resistor
Hey guys, I have been trying to dual mod a MCZ TE-S for 360 with a Hori FC4 and I have been having a lot of trouble…
When I had the PCB’s hooked up like how I would do a traditional DPDT dual mod. When I plugged into a PS4 it would not do anything, and if I disconnected the XB360 PCB It worked just fine… I’m alittle stumped and I was wondering if this was kind of like doing a Dual mod with an MKX pad… I’ve done quite a bit of DPDT switch type dual mods before and this is the first I have ever run into this problem, any ideas on how to fix it?
did you run power and ground to both pcbs?
Thread useless without pics
for like the 10000th time
I’ve never soldered switches before and i think I get it but out of curiosity, theres nothing I could potentially ruin on the board if i get the wires wrong is there? I don’t mind trial and error to get it right. I’m putting my FC4 into a Hori SCV stick. it has the same switches on a PCB up top on the panel and i have the pinouts for those, and im thinking i can just connect them to the back side of the FC4. I think i’ve seen everything on this board at this point but i just wanted to be 100%.
edit: i’ve got no damn clue lol. im thinking what i want to do might not be possible, as the leads off the PCB in the stick only come one wire off the board and seems like the FC4 needs 3 points to be able to make the switch happen. I’m confused on the switches
Any one try to soild a extra switch for dp switch.i have success to soild the switch for ps4/3/pc on new fc but i don’t now how to solid the dp switch
I’ve been using a HFC4 pad hack for over a year no issues. After 3.5 update I was able to get a game in then buttons, and stick eventually became unresponsive. I can depress PS button and all buttons work great in ps4 menus but inoperable in multiple games. Can anyone try out their HFC4 pad hacks pre/post 3.5FW?
Wow, this is interesting. I’ve heard multiple comments about “that’s why you pad hack, so you don’t have issues” in multiple Brook threads (not just on SRK) and if the HFC4 is indeed broken after the 3.50 update, it’s going to be very interesting what lies ahead.
Can the HFC4 be updated by F/W?
It’ll be interesting to see what other responses there’ll be.
Just tried HFC4 in Ps3 mode/SFV legacy mode. Buttons work in game not directions.
Just tried a regular HFC3 pad, all buttons & directions work in SFV Legacy mode. Tried DP/LS/RS and only DP works but that maybe normal. Would like to hear what others are experiencing, possibly isolated to my HFC4 pcb.