fair enough bud. was just giving you an option outside of modding what you may already have or to prevent you from building a stick from the ground up if you don’t absolutely need to
I’m also interested in the controller. Anyone attempted to padhack it yet? I like the Brook fightboard but padhacking a licensed one avoids PS4 software upgrade problems.
Would non SOCD filtering in a Hori/Madcatz converted to a stickless controller affect USF4? I read somewhere here that it could generate random inputs at times. Is that correct?
Most fighting game engines have some kind of SOCD filtering as part of the games code.
The original Marvel vs Capcom 3 lacked it for some reason, it was fixed in Ultimate MvC 3.
I don’t know now if U+D would equate to in USF4, do they cancel out or does one direction have priority over the other.
But it should not produce a random input. This is also assuming that Up and Down is hit at the exactly the same moment and you aren’t pressing any other button combinations.
I would think it be hilarious if it turned out that if you attempt a SOCD cheat in USF4 there would be a undesirable effect to your character that could cause you the match.
It is also why I don’t like to teach people how to tie two inputs to a single button (COUGH full schedule’s stick COUGH).
when I used a hit box for the brief time that i did… before putting in a SOCD cleaner, holding D+U generated U and L+R made R, so using a character like guile, i could rapid fire sonic booms without ever taking my finger off of L, or rapidly flash kick without taking my finger off of D, when adding in an SOCD i kept it so that D+U was still U but made it so that L+R=neutral because trying to to R to L without taking my finger off of R would just register as R still so nothing would come out…
Not necessary, for minor things maybe but nothing that is super important, one thing I think of is like button configuration at character select screen for usf4
Hey, I didn’t really want to ask a question for fear of being chewed out like a noob. But I just wanted to ask this question because I couldn’t really find the solution to it through my google search and tutorial reading.
So I already have a Hori FC4 and a 360 TE, and I’m planning on performing a dual mod on my 360 TE. I know I need to connect the VCC and Ground between the 2 pcbs and I’m planning on getting a DPDT switch for the USB cable to switch between both. I thinking I’ve pretty much got it down for wiring up all the buttons and directions for the stick. The only problem I fear is wiring up the Home button on the 360 TE turbo panel. Is there a separate VCC and Ground point on the turbo panel that is different from the actual 360 pcb? Would I need to wire that to both the 360 pcb and the FC4?
Sorry if I could have found this somewhere else, maybe I just didn’t look hard enough for the answer.
@kooliokool If you’re using the original 360 PCB you shouldn’t be removing any wiring from the turbo panel or the 360 PCB. Just wire everything to the pins on the bottom of the 360 pcb. Also, use a diode and wire your mode switch (middle pin) on the FC4 to LS so you can select between PS3/PS4 and have access to the home button.
@Vicko Okay, I see what you’re saying. Thanks! That definitely sounds better because I wanted to have access to ps3/ps4 switching. I just wasn’t sure how to do it. Could you explain how the mode switch would work? Or explain a little more in depth how to wire it up?
Is there something about racing wheels PCB’s that would make them unusable for an arcade stick? I have a MadCatz FS Pro, and I want to just put a new PCB in. I can buy a Hori Racing Wheel 4 for a pretty good price. I found on the Hori website that it has both the typical PS3/PS4 switch, and a “Mode switch”, which makes it function like a normal DualShock 4 controller. Anyone more experienced than me has any input?
Hi, I’m quite new here, and I’ve recently dual modded my razer atrox with a padhacked ggxrd controller using a DPDT switch to switch in between the boards.
But for some reason, sometimes my pc does not detect my controller properly and is normally resolved with me unplugging the stick and pressing a few buttons and replugging in the stick.