You think it be easier as the Cronus plugs in, But no. You will first have to set up the Cronus on your PC.
You can also lose your settings on the Cronus and have to reprogram it.
We also have to take in account a PS4 Firmware update can render the device incompatible.
It has already happen to a superior converter, the Brook converter. Good thing is the great people at brook has a firmware update for there adapters like a day later.
With a (well done) Pad hack there is no question if the stick is going to work or not, and firmware updates are not going to break the thing.
Also there reports of people breaking their USB ports using the Cronus, it goes back to how people yank out the device once they are done with it and the extra weight on the USB port causes physical stress to the USB port’s soldering. Cronus also has reports of interfering with the other player on some consoles.
In the end of the day reliability beats convenience.
I bought a HFC4 and i disliked how the D-pads lock mechanism kept getting loose. The FC you just posted doesn’t seem to have that issue. Anyone have any info on this particular model Hori Fighting Commander ?
I just need confirmation/clarification. PCB 1 has a LS/DS/RS or Turbo button that I want to utilize to switch the FC4 from PS3/PS4 is this diagram correct?
Without knowing all the details on what ever PCB 1 is I do not want to confirm or deny if the diagram is correct for your Switch mod.
Also your PCB 1 uses a 3 position switch, the FC 4 uses a 2 position single pole single throw switch (On/Off switch).
If you remove the switch entirely the PCB defaults to PS4. I can’t remember if that switch connects to ground or VCC.
What is PCB 1, what does it do?
Most of the people here just take apart the FC 4 to be used for Pad hacks. Most of us don’t actually use it as a game pad.
Based on the PS3 model I had, the dpad is a bit stiff, the controller is also very uncomfortable to hold, it’s very short and thick. Playing this claw style might be better. I should be getting the PS4 version in a few days, I expect it to be the same, but with PS4 support added.
I would just install a SPST switch somewhere for the FC4 PCB.
I would not try to tie the LS/DP/RS switch with the system selector switch on the TE2 Guide PCB.
In reality the TE, TE2, Hori VX are all different PCBs (even if they act the same).
In your particular build what PCB are you using exactly.
Hey guys I don’t know why this occurred but sometimes by disconnecting the fc4 my turbo button becomes a touch pad button. Has this happened to anyone before?
I wouldn’t necessarily say this touch pad button will be entirely necessary. Look at the TE2 and the Hori FC4 controller controller: no touch pad button. And I’m sure you could just configure in options or at the pause menu.
There’s no touch pad button on the PDP pad, but hopefully losing one button won’t be too hold you back too much.
I was thinking about getting Brook’s PCB, but I just found a good deal on this pad. I can live without it but since I’m building it from scratch, I hoped to get a fully functional stick. Well, my wallet is still thinking about it
FC4 is kinda cheap, so I get that, but I’m shocked to know the TE2 don’t have a Touchpad button. That’s really disappointing .
brook pcb is a great deal, but really tiny and can be a pain if you aren’t great with soldering. and has the touch pad feature. which was my reason for getting it
als if you get the TE2+ that releases in Feb it WILL have the touch pad
TE2, either version, is way expensive to me. No way I’m buying it anytime soon. If I could buy an industrialized Arcade, Hori’s Fighting Edge would be my choice. Such a sweet controller.
You’re correct.
The deal is, to get Brook’s, I need to import and risking get taxed (Thus really increasing the price) and for the same price (Minus taxes) I can get MKX Fight Pad