Oh, the TE should be one of the easier sticks to get the LEDs working.
I love to see the write up. I used what I wrote above to make a universal guide
360 ver is easier if youāve got one
Ok so hereās the final write up about my dual mod ps360+ / fc4 on my madcatz TE soul calibur edition with reuse of the original panel. I previously modded this stick a while ago with a ps360+ for tournaments and wanted to try a dual mod as a fun project instead of the converters.
Here is the specs I wanted:
[list]
[] Home button wiring
[] Make the design as modular as possible
[] I donāt care about turbo & LS/DP/RS
[] Use the LS/DP/RS switch to perform the PCB selection
[] Use the turbo button for a hardreset if pressed for ~3s (useful for ps360 in case of detection problems or if you want to force 360 on pc for instance)
[] Keep the lock switch that disables the turbo (now hardreset) and the home button
[] Use a full row of LEDs for the ps360
[] Use a second row of LEDs for: board powered, 2 for the selected pcb, home button activated
[*] Only power one PCB at the time (abandonned because too complex as stated previously)
[/list]
1. The custom board
In order to perform the selection and the hardreset feature I had to make a small custom board to do this. I did this with a tripad stripboard. Hereās the picture of the board once installed (sorry itās a bit of a mess here).
http://i.imgur.com/Tw6mlNs.jpg
And hereās the schematics of the feature part.
http://i.imgur.com/aBadkRX.png
The selection of D-/D+ is not shown but itās basic wiring of a 74HC4053 as @The_Real_Phoenix suggested and it works like a charm.
The idea for the hardware reset is a simple capacitor charge (44k/470Āµ) with some simple transistor logic. The PNP transistor at the end for the selection could be replaced by a NPN and gain one resistor. But it was a remainder of the power selection part (which was made using two NPN transistors).
Connectors are NSK254 and are really handy and easy to setup. At the left of the board, the connectors are Vcc, the LS switch and the turbo button line (gnd is wired to ps360 as a result of a previous mod). At the right of the board are 2 connectors with the standard line.
2. The PS360+ / FC4 wiring
To be the most modular, I used the 20pin alternative connector with a ribbon cable (itās a 2.54mm connector, I first ordered a 2.0 like the alternative RJ45 hook). That is to say, I can switch this design to another stick without soldering. The ribbon cable is then separated to the standard padhack (vcc and gnd are provided by the usb so they are not wired). I kept the FC4 usb cable intact and the other end goes to my custom board. The ps360 is wired via the standard usb because currently I donāt need the RJ hookup.
http://i.imgur.com/Qhv1rCg.jpg
3. The TE Panel and the LED wiring
Ok so hereās the tricky part.
For the easy stuff: The Home/Turbo buttons are wired like documented already. The LS/DP/RS switch is pretty standard, left, right and center connectors are connected to gnd so we have one signal for each position.
For the LED wiring. You have to know that the leds are low consumption leds and are powered via a common anode and a 3k resistor at their cathode. The PS360 provide a 300 ohm which is not enough. So basically the idea was to use the on-board resistors. You technically could wire everything on the very thin connections near the chip but itās impossible for me (too thin). Now, the fun stuff: the on board leds are connected to the button signals via a 2k resistor. A total of 5k ohm is too much but itās possible to remove the 2k resistor and wire directly the led in the button signal (easier).
http://i.imgur.com/HLHI17q.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/NqI4KIa.jpg
Beware when removing the resistors, the copper is fragile and I have ripped of one near R24. I had to make a bridge which was hard to do with the tools I had. In the photo, the leds are wired from top to bottom on the button signal. For the bottom row, I just had to wire directly the led signal to the buttons / switches. The top leds are wired directely to the ps360 with a 2.0mm 4 connector jst.
4. The result
Here it is fully assembled and wired up. It fits like a glove 
The FC4 is stuck right between the stick and the buttons. I fixed the pcbs with the screws from the FC4 and added foam underneath them to avoid break.
http://i.imgur.com/1evqrW8.jpg
The usb cable is very short and is connected to a 15ft cable with a repeater to avoid power troubles especially on pc.
I could only test this on my pc but the switch and the hard reset works perfectly.
In the end this was a fun project to do. Itās been a while since I did electronics and that felt good to go back to it ^^. Thanks to @The_Real_Phoenix for the idea of reusing the panel and the 74hc4053 and a lot of other posts on this forum.
EDIT: I made a video to show the features of this mod
https://youtu.be/wo1i9pdC2F4
@WydD
This cute little 4053 does wonders. 
If I understand your schematic correclty, the left part is a āchargeā of VCC to avoid voltage drop on your VCC pcb and your selection is done by a pull down resistor?
Please correct me if Iām wrong.
The pcb vcc is powered via the PNP transistor in the middle (which has no voltage drop if satured), the rest is only what controls the transistor to do the hardreset if the turbo button is pressed during 3s. In order to have clean D-/D+ signals and enough charge I use a usb cable with a repeater at the end.
Edit: I forgot to mention that the PNP transistors are BC327, they support 800mA instead of the standard BC557 which is limited to ~100mA. Though i think it may be enough, I donāt want to take chances
Long overdue thank you to the people participating in this thread. This was very helpful for my first attempt at pad hacking.
Nice job with the wiring WydD, even by non-dual mod standards.
Any updates on this? Iād get a Hori FC4 to put in my 360 stick, but Iām only moderately proficient with modding/electronics. This PCB looks just my speed.
Honestly I donāt see how this is easier than a Hori FC4.
You still got to solder to tiny points on a PCB, and that PCB has its pads very close together.
You donāt have to rip it out of the controller and all the contacts are clearly marked and logically placed. It switches automatically between PS3/4 rather than needing to solder a switch. No switch for changing between shoulder buttonsā¦I could go on.
Iām mostly just interested in the status as itās been a bit since he gave an update.
Itās actually a better PCB for these reasons:
Touchpad button
Autodetect between PS3 and PS4
Smaller
Upgradeable firmware
Analog support
L3/R3 Support
@ogerrob147 No update at all. I havenāt had any spare time to wire it. It will probably be sometime after Thanksgivings before I can even mess with it.
PS4 update 3.11 did break the device once, fortunately for is Brook was pretty fast coming up with a firmware update
On the other hand the Hori FC4 is working as always
You dont need to solder a switch, just leave the pad on PS4 mode and it be fine. and for the Logically placed? I donāt see whats unlogical about a a game pads PCB.
I can guess most of the button locations at a glance, it was only the triggers I had to ether look up or test for. And if you are building a 6 buttons tick, you dont need them.
I will say this is the most solid reason in my mind when it comes to fighting games.
it took over for select in many game training modes.
i agree the ps4 update breaking the compatibility was a boner killer but everything else about the pcb is nice
Thanks @wazwuz testing experience after updating, then compare lag input between BROOK and FC4
https://youtu.be/i3bdsD4X2JE
Your setup requires a DPDT or Imp V2 to act as a switch for each respective PCB along one USB.
His issue is not having power on both pcbs at once
Yup, as you may have seen in a later post I finally powered both pcbs at once to avoid weirdy weirdness.
you lack a working home button with the hfc4 in ps4 mode on ps3, iirc.
Yep, my customers have so far needed a working PS3 button when installing a FC4 pcb so Iāve had to install some kind of a switch every time.
what sticks do you mainly work on? On a TE or anything with any kind of slider switch, i usually use that.