You have to host your picture somewhere else. Use your Dropbox public folder or upload to fb or something
Dropbox? Ill check it out if not ill just make a fb for this situation. Would like to get some critique on my work by you guys to see if im ok or not.
I was thinking however, could the problem be the usb itself? Instead of the usb cable from the qanba, I reused the hc4s usb cable to connect everything which has very thin wires compared to the qanbas. Could that be it?
You can imgur, photobucket, thereâs a lot of free image hosting out there
The fc4 usb should be fine
you can just paste it or click the little file icon to embed
Not sure if you caught the pictures but I will surely work
on the switch once again and the connections to each board⌠The boards work well when plugged in with a usb individually, but once connected together I am not able to get the systems to read the stick. Theyre only getting power from the usb but is not sending information in that setup.
Could you explain to me your comment on the length of the wires, I dont understand what you meant by that. Ill probanly end up snipping them and solder them much more neatly on the switch.
The dpdt switch isnt a concern correct? Its a rocker switch that says its 16a 250v ac 20a 125v ac
Thanks again for your time
i canât really tell if you have any wires touching but if you donât have one, you should really get/borrow a multimeter and make sure your data wires arenât touching in any way. The first picture looks like your green wire might be touching the black but idk.
Length is probably ok.
Dont know anyone but Ill ask my cousin if he knows anyone from his college, if not Ill probably search for a place and ask my mom drive me there if its going to be needed.
Once again sorry for the pictures that was the best I could do with my phone while trying to get close to the objects. You probably meant the blob I left on one of the grounds its not touching anything else but I will inspect them thoroughly.
Thank you for your time vicko cant stress it enough. Hope to get this thing to work to not bug you guys again lol
ill try that, i didnt use a 5th shielding cable
I completely rewired the inside of my stick, and combined the shield wire with the ground and after about 20mins of gameplay my controller disconnected midmatch. i press home and it started back up. i played about 15 more mins and it didnt happen again.
havenât had any issues but I still think itâs a grounding issue. You donât need a 5th wire, you need the metal insulation in the usb cable to be grounded. You can also wire a spot from the chassis of your stick, like from the JLF screws or somewhere else metal, to the ground on any of your PCBs.
Hey guys,
Iâm currently working on a dual mod ps360+ fc4 (I will present it here when finished). I wanted to have separate alimentation for each pcb in order to have only the active pcb using resources. I came across something that I think is not reported here. If you share buttons on both, and if ps360+ only is powered, then it considers 2P 1K and UP pressed. If the fc4 only is powered or if both are powered, then there is no problem.
The golden rule of dual modding is that all PCBs should be powered and grounded at all times to prevent any wackiness.
I know that but I wanted to try anyway considering what @The_Real_Phoenix said few pages earlier Third party PS4 padhack options even though I donât have the issue he mentions.
If you didnât have the same issue, I wouldnât bother doing the same thing.
Almost every single time you got to follow the golden rules of dual mods.
Its very rare to do this and there is an exception to the rule, but you have to then isolate both boards from each other, which takes alot of diodes and âelectronic wizardryâ to do.
Yeah I abandonned this idea now since I want to wire the leds of the ps360 and itâs starting to be a mess for nothing 
Read everything before you cut or solder anything.
No one I found bothered to show the actual LED wiring, considering the Xbox 360 and PS3 versions are Different [Edit]
I did find this http://support.focusattack.com/entries/23708961-How-to-fully-access-all-TE-features-on-PS360-mod
and this Wiring to the TE Turbo Panel with a PS360+
Its not the same, but it gives you insight on how it works.
You need to test what the polarity of each SMD LED, and how they are wired up on the board. I recommend a battery holder for two AA batteries and using the wires as testing leads.
Now that you got the LED polarity, you should ether mark the board or take a note on some paper which end of the LEDs is plus and minus. If you got a digital camera, take photos and annotate on the photo.
If you jump over to the hardware guide on the PS360+ , page 3 shows how the LEDs are to be wired for the PS360+.
http://akishop-customs.com/assets/img/bg/Files/PDF/PS360HardwareOverview.pdf
The LEDs wiring for the PS360+ have separate negatives for each LED and a common vcc or voltage source, when speaking just about LEDs its referred to a common anode.
On LEDs are Anode is positive and cathode is negative. The PS360+ was designed to best work with a Mad Catz TE, I canât speak on how the LEDS are wired in the stick you are modding.
All that left is to find where is the common anode pin going out on your LED indicator/guide board and the 4 LED negative or cathode lines, this is where a multi meter would be handy.
Confirm that the player indicator LEDs are common anode or common cathode. If the LEDS are Common Cathode this mod will not work (not with some more electronic âwizardryâ).
Also Make sure you desolder JP1 on the PS360+ PCB
This is the best I can do without investing in another stick and taking photos and showing you the process step by Step
nice writeup
Thanks, I did it all on the fly.
it all boils down to knowing how the PS360+ handles their LEDs and the rest are the fundamentals.
I going to put a modified version of this write up on the Diodes 101 guide.
Note that the voltage is only on a specific line (change between Old/New consoles), both of the board are powered normally.
To be precise, the voltage dropdown I have with my mod could be due to a multitudes or a combination of points:
- two boards powered at the same time,
- a third PCB with a bit of electronic (even if it simple),
- additional length of cable Inside between the PCBs,
- Using atwo resitors as a voltage divider for the 3.3v is not a good idea (a regulator could be an alternative)
- Errors in my design which could generate some noise or I didnât respect a rules or something to avoid power loss (capas, diodes or coils).
Once again Iâm not a pro in electronic, not even a hobbyist, merely a bashful beginner.
This can be patch easily, hower the fact that I cannot use some else than the original USB cable from the FC4 is bugging me much more (Iâm still waiting some ferrites to be sure if itâs that or not).
@Darksakul No worries, by the time you wrote that I already made it work. I will post a full write up tomorrow seing that their seemed to be only few resources on fully using the panel. I have a TE ps3 soulcalibur edition btw.