Third party PS4 padhack options

Hawky, Can you show how you wrired it u? Pinouts?? Thanks

ok so i found a video that shows which contacts on the pcb in the madcatz ps3 te stick are for turbo and home, so i can connect those to the pcb from my fc4. but has anyone ever figured out where to get the signal from the lock/unlock switch? or DP/RS/LS switch?
i want to try wiring the lock/unlock to the PS3/PS4 toggle on the FC4 but i can’t find anywhere which contacts on that little pcb in the ps3 stick are for the switches

edit: nevermind I didn’t think that thru lol. if I use the lock switch one of the console modes will disable my home button (duh)

I was able to map out where the important buttons go on the p4 controller

[IMG]http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt353/hawky316/Mobile%20Uploads/20150709_175248.jpg[/img]
You can see that all of the connectors are numbered 1-18 the contacts are the dark portions; using the circuit ribbon I was able to get this layout

1 -L1
2 -L2
3-?
4-?
5-right
6-up
7-left
8-down
9-?
10-home
11-X
12-O
13- ▲
14-■
15-R1
16-R2
17-?
18- ground
Near the top of the pcb there are two contacts for share (SW12) and options (SW13)

this thing only works for 8 minutes, right? Why not just use a ps360+ and get more usability from it, or use an FC4 for actual PS4 support?

You’re right. Just tap VCC and GND from any source. All PCBs must have power and ground.

No it’s been used for 2+ hours non stop it’s a better quality third party controller

Does the P4 work on the PS3 and PC too? Sounds like a good deal for $40.

Wow so that looks to be a pretty simple solder job if that is the case.

So if I were to get one of these, and a TE2 Crossbone, I could wire this up to my TE2 and have a PS4/X1 joystick? Can anyone confirm/deny this?

for $45 you could get a FC4 and have an easier time. those small points look just as small and hard to solder to as the DS4

@dehumanizer62 it works perfectly on a pc (I’ve been using it on a snes emulator), plugged it in and it automatically downloaded the driver. On PS3 everything but the home/ps button on plug in.

It’s wireless too right?
Still would suggest the hfc4 or mkx because they are wired. Compared to the ds4 though this looks much better.

No the P4 is wired

You sure about that? Does it have a battery in it? Plugging it into your PC is just like the DS4 wherein wired mode takes over, but on the actual system it’s pure wireless, even if you have a cable in place. It’s just how the thing works.

Even still, for that price just snag an FC4, similar price and way easier to work with.

There’s no battery or wireless transmitter on the P4

Hmm. the antenna is there but yeah, you’re right there’s very little on that board. I don’t even see the security chip that’s on other 3rd party devices. Interesting.

Dam, that’s nice third party controller then. Full PS4 support, PC support, and PS3 with the exception of the home button with no need for a toggle switch am i correct? Also it’s a fully wired controller.

Yes that’s right no toggle switch, and fully wired. It’s got a 6 foot micro usb in the box but it’s interchangeable so you can put any length on it that you need.

This may be a really really stupid question, so bear with me, but the wired Hori FC4 controller, I don’t have to worry about the 8 minute drop out issue at all since it’s wired, right? And that can be pad hacked to use the same USB wire as the TE2 (Xbox One) and I can just switch between PS4 and Xbox One somehow, right?

You’re gonna need a Phreakmods TE2 Crossbone to dualmod a Hori FC4. And, yes, you can use the same USB. Just locate the USB from the main PCB and use a DPDT or an Imp as your switch.

Yeah I plan to get the TE2 Crossbone.

If I don’t want to use a physical DPDT swtich (not sure where to mount it on the TE2) I can use an Imp? What exactly is that? That lets me have a “soft” switch or something?

The imp lets you have two separate pcbs on one USB with a seperate button for each console http://www.focusattack.com/toodles-imp-v2-dual-control-pcb/