I was thinking about using the FC4 and changing out the HRAP3 pcb in my existing ps3/360 dual modded stick. I have an IMP which I would use to select system and perhaps emulate home button by pressing start+select. I would need a dpdt switch mounted to switch ps3/ps4 without opening the stick i think, but what kind of switch would i need if i wanted to be able to replicate the DP-LS-RS switch? I guess if I’m going that far I could try to preserve the turbo button too and get it all in on that little control panel area that already exists. I’ll need some little buttons though
any big holes I’m not seeing? I currently have an imp connected to the hrap3 pcb and a madcatz360 pad.
That right there is the reason I never use my rectangular DPDT switches anymore. The actual button/switch looks so much nicer than than the other old school metal switches but small rectangles are a pain in the butt to cut out properly (even with dremels), I have learned the hard way. I can see from his picture that he messed up the cut a bit too (right above the switch)
These on the other hand might not look as cool but who doesn’t know how to drill a perfect circle with a drill bit?
Hi Vicko, quick question… I am in the same scenario with a ps3/360 dual modded stick with impv2. If I were to add support for ps4, do I purchase one of those dpdt switches? and how should I wire it up for system switching? do I connect the switch to the imp or does it go somewhere else on the pcb? Thanks in advance.
So, I tried to add a third pcb (mkx ps4/3) to an existing ps360+xb1 stick.
Put diodes on the 15 signals (everything except usb lines) and hooked it up to a 2nd dpdt switch (first splits data between ps360 and 2nd switch, 2nd switch splits between ps4 and xb1 padhacks).
For the ps4/ps3 switch, I just cut it off the switch it has since I only need it in ps4 mode.
Maybe instead of cutting off the switch, you could have hot glued it into place?
I guess you have to bridge what ever connector the switch made to lock the PCB into PS4 mode.
Is there a diode for the home signal too? Did you press the home button after plugging into ps4?
The switch board isn’t needed if you want to keep it in ps4 mode since it stays in ps4 mode if the system mode signal is left high. With the switch board removed the signal is left high.
This isn’t a solution but I couldn’t help but notice… I think your X and SQUARE are soldered to the wrong spot. Shouldn’t they be soldered to the contact point to the right? Not the middle.
Do you have a picture of the other side?
UPDATE: Never mind, I just realized that this is different from the Xbox One/360 version.
Yes and yes. I don’t actually have a ps4 to test it but I tested the ps360+ and the xb1 then asked the customer to test the ps4 when he got home.
Customer stated that ps360+ and xb1 worked fine but nothing happens on ps4 even after holding down the home button for ~3secs.
He did state that on his first attempt the ps360 was doing its bootloader ‘cycle’ (where it flashes each player LED in sequence) while plugged into his ps4 (switches were set to ps4 mode) but after testing it on 360 and xb1, retrying on ps4 didn’t do anything nor cycle the ps360.
I’d have to wait till Saturday before I can have the stick and a ps4 in the same place.
I have a question, I plan on putting the MKX pad in an old Madcatz TE1 stick; I don’t plan on dual modding, I just want PS4 support. I have a question about wiring up the pad as I am completely new to this. Is it possible to select a single ground and using that to wire all the buttons? And how do I go about wiring up the home button as the contact is different from all the others and it’s the one that is confusing to me at the moment.
Diodes comes in types rather than sizes.
Any “generic” or Junction diode would work, and it does not matter what the semiconductor made from (like silicon or germanium) of if the outer case is glass or ceramic.
From that signal diodes what fits the bill but you can get away with rectifier diode as for our purposes they do the same job, their just “check valves” allowing the flow of electricity to go only one way.
The stripe is to denote what end is the cathode is.
If you already have an imp for a dual mod, you would need another imp or a DPDT switch.
Take data lines from usb out, solder to the middle of the dpdt switch. Solder the other 4 poles to where the data lines go on the imp and on the ps4 pad of your choice.
If using an imp, just take the USB out off your current imp, solder it to the new imp, and solder your data lines from the old imp and the ps4 pad to XD+/- and D E. Run a wire from whatever you want your switch button to be to F.
Just a quick update, got it working yesterday. Turns out, the 2nd dpdt switch I had installed was faulty. When toggled to the ps4 side, only d- was connecting while d+ didn’t go through. I connected D+ directly so doesn’t use the switch but left D- on the switch.
FYI, of the last 6 switches I’ve bought from radio shack, 2 have had this issue
Been making some changes to my Gimp board to handle switching between 4 systems. Noticed that the system select signal on the ps4 mkx pad also needs a diode on it if you plan to tie it together with the system select signal on the xb1 mkx pad.
