45degrees indeed. Hey my dual player controller is miter joint too with screws and caulking.
The 2nd player blue buttons aren’t aligned correctly - built & cut a new acrylic cause the other one had scratches and cracks. I can see michael laughing as I’m being tortured through the building process. He probably went through the same when he built his first one. This is a hard lesson learned - drop your CP, Acrylic and art and drill your pilot holes… :wasted:
Oh YEA VMA HERE’S ONE FOR YOU MAN! I know you been drumming that drum for me all along!
Anyway I will sand the acrylic a bit so that the buttons line up evenly when I get a chance.
Yes, yes i know. The art isn’t original but you guys knew that when I already told you that I wasn’t good at photoshop or mashing photos together and I was looking for ready made PIC to go on my CP. You knew that right? :razzy:
Thanks 3cks! Would be happy for share the PDF to two player slagcoin layout plus the image I used to print the graphics at 30.75" x 10.2" if you are interested.
I know ghaleon would say - joystick/buttons are not color schemed matched! BAHAHAHHAHA!
Man you always wake up early VMA! Thanks for the compliment. The art had to be blown up bigger than it was - Adobe photoshop 4 can handle that well without making the original pic pixelated when it makes the pic size bigger.
Well Kaytrim and Ecks are still masters - if I took close ups pics on my CP, there’s lot of blemishes
So yes 3cks is secks still. LOL~
As for the glue test, this CP doesn’t use any glue - it was just screws.
Are we in the same time zone? I’m in Ontario (gmt-5), most people think I wake up too late…lol.
Yeah, Micheal and Ecks are masters…and I’m glad to see them along with many others share the stick-building knowledge they’ve accumulated with the rest of us.
As for my stick, I had all but given up on the “mirror finish” (i hate elbow grease - :lol:), but I know I’ll kick myself if I don’t give it my best. The internal debate is still raging…lol.
You know…once the girls in the neighbourhood find out how s3xy your stick is, you might be wishing you’d made it a little narrower :wgrin:.
Maybe… I can always glue together my Mad Catz TE and HORI HRAP 2 SA together with titebond III and call it a 2 player CP if a female SF4 player comes along.
That 2P CP is schaweet! No I ain’t laughing atcha. I still make mistakes in fact the other night I was trying to cut plexi and ruined 3 pieces before getting ready to drill the button holes. Decided to call it a night after that.
The art fits this stick almost perfect. The only thing that would make this better is if P1 had yellow controls and P2 had white to match the characters. This is still a well designed case. You are making me itch to get busy on my MAME machine again.
Hey Cap…I’m jealous man, you’re already playin’ on your sweet cp, and I’m still waiting for paint to dry:looney:. Oh…and Canada mos’def needs Kinkos…lol.
a) what’s the durability of a wood case versus plastic? Scratch resistance, ability for quick fixes to any surface marring?
b) are there any parts that absolutely cannot be installed or used in a wood case?
c) is there any real risk for fire or burn damage from normal usage? (Assuming no because the electrical flow doesn’t heat up the wires enough…)
d) what are the recommended woods for durability, best strength-to-weight ratio, and resistance to rotting and all that nice stuff associated with organic material…
d)1) do these wood cases really weigh more than comparably sized plastic cases?
e) is there a consensus on a nice wood finish – painting in color or varnish to bring out the natural wood finish/grain texture?
f) what’s the best way to seal the wood to prevent moisture from getting in and causing potential rot/cracking problems?
g) IF the wood case does get cracked, how could you proceed with repairs to salvage as much of it as possible?
I realize some of these questions require detailed answers and they may not even be able to be answered now because some of the scenarios haven’t happened to many people yet. I do appreciate the organic case and think it might provide a good excuse to do a future stick build…
a) Wood in my opinion is pretty durable. Slagcoin.com has more info. Although slagcoin says pine has the lowest durability, it was pretty durable when I used it to test the “rip apart the frame” using gorilla glue. Therefore it can only get better as you use better wood types.
I own mad catz TE and HRAP 2 SA made out of hard plastic and are also durable. I think the main difference is that wood is more prone to dents than hard plastic in theory. “In theory” I say because as long as you are a civilized human being, there’s reason for durable wood to be dented. I banged pine wood frame on concrete floor and it wasn’t dented so you need to be pretty rough before it can get a dent.
Paint chips? I got small chips on my Mad Catz TE from normal wear and tear. So I would say how many coats were used on your controller? Minor Scratches? Same thing.
I say anything that you built from scratch with your hands, you’ll be better able to fix than if you got a stock part from controller vendor or at least replace any part with ease.
c) If there was a big risk, I think slagcoin would have a big warning. I’ve seen PCBs just mounted inside joystick panels without any elevated mounts. If the electricals aren’t deadly to shock you to death, it probably won’t get very hot.
d) For best ratio, look at slagcoin.com. http://slagcoin.com/joystick/decoration.html
They will thoroughly answer your question. You want painted case? Slagcoin says use poplar wood - its unbeatable they say. You want to use hardwood at medium workability? Use Cherry, Walnut or mohogany.
d.1) The mad catz TE and HRAP 2 SA gets their weight from the metal plates on control panel and the bottom panel that closes the controller. For wooden controllers, you use MDF for your controller panel various reasons including putting some weight into your controller. In short, the weight is comparable.
g) For cracks woods, slagcoin says try to make powder out of the same wood that you use to make your controller and fill up the gap. If you got chipped wood, then slagcoin says to try to glue back the chipped piece. If its a painted case, I would just use some caulking or wood putty, spray some paint, and then sand it down. : )
I’ve only answered the ones I know thus far. I hope other members can chime in for more details and insight.:wgrin:
Would be happy for share the PDF to two player slagcoin layout plus the image I used to print the graphics at 30.75" x 10.2" if you are interested.
