That’s pretty much how I do it… and if you like the crisp square corners, the chisels really shine:).
VMA, now you make feel like I’m in a ghetto joystick building contest with hand tools. 
well, it’s late - and I’m dusty and tired - and I still have a stick to build…def time for zzzzz’s. Peace, Cap.
While I do agree with you guys that as long as the tool is decent you can get good work done with it I think it’s better to buy the best you can for your needs. Micheal said his miter saw is about 90% accurate, I paid $200CAD for my Mastercraft Maximum (store specific brand) saw+stand (on sale) and it’s probably about 75% accurate. I can’t even glue all 4 joints together because they have HUGE gaps. This is a tool that my friend’s father used and considered good when he was finishing his basement. It takes some of the fun out of it for me when things don’t work at least close to well. I really wish I spent $200-$300 more and bought a DeWalt because I am finding that my miter saw would be useful for more things than I initially thought.
I was looking at the Ryobi and MCM tablesaws but decided against it, for now I’m telling myself I will only use it for case tops and bottoms so it doesn’t matter but I know that once I get it I’m going to find more things to do with it and I will be held back. Unfortunately, space is super tight, probably too tight for a tablesaw.
I don’t want to do the same thing with my drill press, I’m looking at spending 200$ more for the Ridgid for a 15" vs 12" MCM and more accurate cuts, more powerful motor and just better quality overall. I will be using my drill press for a lot of things (drilling plastics, woods, metals and composites sooner or later) and want it to work and do so well.
I really would skip stationary power tools in an apartment, they are all huge and all loud. The first time I turned on my chopsaw I was in a world of pain and I never use it without ear protection anymore. Drill is of course a necessity. For the hand saw you can get a miter box should make it easier to get good straight cuts (I’ve never used one but from what I hear they are useful). You can use a file to un-square the edges or even a plane with a chamfer guide, good planes are quite a bit more expensive than files though.
Btw, you can buy pre-rounded wood but it’s a bit more expensive. I bought my oak with pre-rounded edges (for railing I think).
Probably a reference to the chipper faces. If your just “touching up” the bit, you could probably get away with just that. But if your bit is really dull, you’ll have to sharpen the bevel and the rim as well. Sharpening augers and twists is fairly straightforward, but because the angles and clearances are very important on forstners, as on table saw blades, I prefer leaving that to a tradesman.
hth
crazed…
If I remember right, that Ryobi has a collapsible base, and the table top is pretty compact when the extension rails which open up to a decent rip cap aren’t out. It’s definitely worth checking into.
I will check out the Ryobi tablesaw. The problem is that I live with my parents 
Although we have a lot of space in the garage (it’s two cars deep) it seems really tight. My dad wants to park his car in there and the back half of the garage is full plus we have a shed that is full too. I don’t know where all of our junk comes from 
Best option would be if I could carry it into the backyard when it is not raining so that I could use it, but I have to check the weight, The Ridgid portable is pretty big and weighs in at 80+LBS. Not something I want to move in and out everytime I need it.
For sharpening a forstner bit, I think the reason you are told to sharpen the flat side is to not wreck the angle of the bevel. However, even doing only the flat side represents some problems, the blades on the rim that cut the fiber should be only very slightly higher than the chippers and must remain that way.
What people mean by the flat side is when you are sharpening the two chippers in the middle I will try to get a picture of tonight. It’s a bit hard to explain.
Since the discussion has turned to quiet woodworking here is a short list of hand tools that you may want to consider. Also listen through the podcasts of ‘The Way of the Galoot’. Mack goes through the basic hand tools and their uses. Even though this is an audio podcast Mack is a wonderful wordsmith that will paint the picture for you.
Hand Saws
There are two styles of hand saws, Western and Japanese. The Western saws are made of thicker metal and cut while being pushed. The Japanese are made quite thin and cut while being pulled. Both styles are available in the home centers now. However the better quality saws are found online and can cost quite a bit more. My personal preference leans twords the Japanese style saws. They leave a much cleaner cut then the typical Western style saws for a lot less money. you can get similar results with a western style saw but at prices that range from $90 - $150
In each style there are two types of teeth, Cross cut and Rip cut. Cross cut saws are designed to cut perpendicular to the grain. While Rip cut saws are designed to cut with the grain. The way to tell the difference in a western saw is to look at the teeth down the length of the blade. Rip cut teeth are filed straight across like a row of chisels while Cross cut teeth look like little knives.
The Japanese have a saw that has both types of teeth on one blade. these are called Ryoba or Razor saws. I would recommend that anyone on a tight budget to get a Ryoba saw. There are some decient ones that are not all that expensive and you basicly get two saws for the price of one. The ones you can get in the home centers are not really worth the time or money. Decient Ryoba can run around $30 and the replacement blades go for about half that. The link I posted at the top of this paragraph is to a site called The Japan Woodworker. They have quite a range of saws and other tools. You can also get a good Ryoba at Woodcraft.
Chisels
The range of quality in chisels is the same as any tools I have mentoned. The ones you get at the home centers are designed for construction work and not really suitable for fine woodworking. Most of your better chisels cost over $20 apiece. However there is one exception and are the ones I use. Narex chisels are solid and can be used for pairing or chopping. This 4 piece set under $30 for the set.
Sharpening
All chisels and hand plane blades too need to be properly perpared when new to get the best performance. Start off by flatening the back. Then hone the bevel. There are several sharpening mediums to choose from, Scary Sharp, Water Stones, Oil Stones and Power sharpeners. The choice of medium is a personal one and will change over time. I started out with the Scary Sharp system then moved over to Water Stones. Sharpening is a very diverse and detailed subject so i will give you a few links to follow up with to begin your education into the galootish way.
Here is a general links page that covers almost all things hand tools. http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm
This page covers the necessary task of flatening the back or lapping as it is called.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/Lapping%20the%20Backs%20of%20Blades.html
It is easier to understand the method of sharpening by seeing it in action. This YouTube user has post three videos discussing three of the 4 mediums I mentoned above.
http://www.youtube.com/user/MDLuthier
I’ll go into hand planes later as it is a very long subject and I have gone on long enough as it is.
Michael
Please do go on, I was looking into hand planers but have yet to fully realize the different applications on wood cases. If you have any info on them please Preach it Brotha! (sorry i kinda dorked on that one, but any info is always welcome)
I would suggest you digest the sharpening information as it will be key to hand planes. I’ll get the handplane information up either tonight or lunch time tomorrow.
Michael
Mine is a set of 4 chisels, 1/4" thru 1" half decent…I use a 1000/4000x water stone to sharpen them, if for no other reason but that it’s the way I learned. As long as they’re kept sharp (cutting paper is a good test) - they rock!
Sounds like a plan Michael, no rush man, just lovin the info 
Thanks for that VMA!
Michael, noticed that you use 1/2" MDF on your CP builds. Is this usually what you use? I’ve only used 1/2" MDF for my two player control panel only because the 3/4" MDF at 32 inches wide became real heavy for a home controller. But in order to achieve the official joystick height, I carved about 7mm deep for the joystick mounting plate to fit in. Then I notice there was very little wood left in the base to support the joystick (just below where the mounting plate resides). It has about 1/8inch approx. Now would my CP break easily?
What joystick are you using? I use Sanwa JLF and Seimitsu LS-32-01 as my stock sticks. I route out 1/4" leaving 1/4" for support. Plus the screw holes are right near the edge so it gets some additional support from the sourounding MDF.
I use SANWA JLF and SANWA button as in the pictures I posted up in the previous post. I’m worried that the thin layer supporting the joystick may crack and break when I get mad and pound on it - well not pound on… I don’t do that. However if it drops or if other accident that may happen.
I have been using 1/2" MDF for quite some time. I only route 6mm down and it still is arcade authentic because there is 1mm leeway in the height measurements. I have yet to hear of any tops breaking at the joystick.
Michael
Michael, as always, you are always helpful. :wonder:
Thank you for your guidance prof. Michael.
As for your post on hand tools, it may be long for an average person but you and I probably spend sleepless nights reading computer books. I can also guess you are well versed on SQL cause most programmers are also good SQL administrators. I don’t know how you keep up with both wood working and programming. After my vacation I have to convert my brain cell power from wood to MS and CISCO again. LoL.
Also do feel stupid for asking about sharpening forstner bits as that was mentioned in the earlier posts… just had to go back and see what has been discussed.
many thanks… :wgrin:
Forstner:
This is the flat side, the part that has some silver in it:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/crazedmodder/Projects/Tools/Woodworking/th_20090617-P6177701.jpg
The bevel side is facing the camera in this shot (the flat side is what the file is touching):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/crazedmodder/Projects/Tools/Woodworking/th_20090617-P6177700.jpg
A chisel I bought on sale, it’s a protouch chisel. Got the pair (1" and 3/4") for $12 and it came honed. Lookey how sharp:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/crazedmodder/Projects/Tools/Woodworking/th_20090617-P6177703.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/crazedmodder/Projects/Tools/Woodworking/th_20090617-P6177702.jpg
Cut it like butter.
My half-round second file:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/crazedmodder/Projects/Tools/Woodworking/th_20090617-P6177712.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/crazedmodder/Projects/Tools/Woodworking/th_20090617-P6177711.jpg
My rough file (carbide teeth, paint to clean):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/crazedmodder/Projects/Tools/Woodworking/th_20090617-P6177708.jpg
My honing guide with the chisel in it:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/crazedmodder/Projects/Tools/Woodworking/th_20090617-P6177709.jpg
awesome picture guides, im wondering if you could use chisel to cut the joystick panel hole:P
It’s starting to look to me like there’s a natural inclination for programmers/techs to choose woodworking as a hobby:). Programming is part of what I do for our consulting company. Maybe it’s the puzzle analogy inherent in both programming and woodworking? Just a thought…
those are nice i cant wait to order some forstner bits and build me some case.