The "Stickless Arcade Stick" Thread

[Rufus]

Experienced modders will notice that I’m using a Paewang PCB. However, I’m having an issue on the PS3, where if I hold down and up at the same time it’ll input up and to the right, instead of only up, which does NOT happen on the 360. Have not attempted to use it with a PC yet.

The SOCD cleaner circuits would fix that. Of course, you also loose the ability to do Up+Down.

[zombat]

The SOCD cleaner circuits would fix that. Of course, you also loose the ability to do Up+Down.

Thanks for the suggestion!! After a bit of research off of that, I foundthat you can choose to make up and down = neutral, or simply up.

I’ll be getting a Toodles SOCD cleaner kit.

Q: How about with a PS360?
A: This should work just fine on a PS360, but I would like to make one suggestion. If you are going to use the ‘U+D=U’ setting, then assemble the board as normal, but do NOT pit in the resistor labelled R1. If you are going to use the ‘U+D=N’ setting, then DO put in the R1 resistor like normal.

Thanks again for the help!!

[Politank-Z]

More a working prototype than a completed thing, I was going to MAGfest this year and wanted to be able to play regardless of system.

Prior to this my stickless arcade stick was a real mess of a thing, a frankenstein conglomeration of bits of wood plexiglass and epoxy, off a cannabalized Madcatz SE. So while I was home for the holidays I began an exploratory project for a fightstick. I ended up having to rush the job so I wasn’t able to paint up a cover. Reaching for the nearest, colorful, printed thing, ‘Two Scoops’ was born.

The hole in the middle, in case you’re wondering, is for an actual stick; the notion being that if someone else wanted to play while visiting or while I was visiting it’d function as a joystick arcade stick as well. It currently functions as a clever way to pick up the stick! The button on the inside of the box is the turbo button. I’ll be putting it on one of the sides, eventually.

Additionally, the plexiglass ends ‘early’ because I was going to add a bevel from the plexi down to the wood using apoxie sculpt, but then the rasin bran box worked … too well … as a shoddy bit around the edges. At one point I started to cut it straight but realized it took away from the character. You may also notice the cracking plexi - this is due to the cardboard’s springiness (I used the box you get a sam’s club, that is corrugated)

I made it open like the Mortal Kombat special edition stick because not only would that make button swaps stupidly easy, but you can also store the cord and anything else you need (milk, a small bowl, etc) easily in the box.

Experienced modders will notice that I’m using a Paewang PCB. However, I’m having an issue on the PS3, where if I hold down and up at the same time it’ll input up and to the right, instead of only up, which does NOT happen on the 360. Have not attempted to use it with a PC yet.

As I mentioned, this is more of a working prototype than anything finished. The future stick that I’m going to make will feature …

• Use a latch system to keep it shut, instead of wire wrapped around two screws
• Plexi for the bottom so I can make the box itself even more low-profile.
• Bevel the vertical corners
• Custom Art, painted by myself
• Start/Select/Turbo/Home buttons on the back side of the box, instead of the top.
• Detachable USB cable and jack. The Paewang’s standard cord is abominably short, and having a few options stored inside the box would be cool.
• Microphone Input! I still have to figure out how to add this but its frustrating not being able to speak with my 360 buddies while playing.

It went over real well at MAGfest, and I think I’m going to be taking it to Winterbrawl

Yo that design is actually pretty brilliant! I’m actually thinking of doing something very similar! Would their be any problems having the two control schemes active at the same time? Would having a SOCD cleaner for the stickless parts interfere with the stick control in any way?

[DanAdamKOF]

Yo that design is actually pretty brilliant! I’m actually thinking of doing something very similar! Would their be any problems having the two control schemes active at the same time? Would having a SOCD cleaner for the stickless parts interfere with the stick control in any way?

Your stick can’t go two cardinal directions at once. It’s moot.

[zombat]

Yo that design is actually pretty brilliant! I’m actually thinking of doing something very similar! Would their be any problems having the two control schemes active at the same time? Would having a SOCD cleaner for the stickless parts interfere with the stick control in any way?

Dan is correct, you can’t go two ways at once, so it doesn’t matter.

As for having the stick and the buttons work at the same time - the original Frankenstein Madcats SE converted to hitbox was just buttons connected to the harness within the stick. Both the directional buttons and the stick worked fine concurrently.

[Politank-Z]

I plan on having two up buttons because of the proximity of my thumbs to the stickless controls. I’m pretty sure the wiring’s going to be a mess. Hopefully this’ll be done successfully and I’ll have the EABA controller! Thanks for all of the great info in this thread!

[zombat]

Actually two buttons for ‘up’ will be incredibly easy. You just attach them both to the same points. Or attach one, strip the wires in the middle somewhere, then solder button two’s wires to the stripped wires of the other one, making sure that they match up with lead/ground.

And that it, really quite simple!

[zeththedarkmage]

I plan on having two up buttons because of the proximity of my thumbs to the stickless controls. I’m pretty sure the wiring’s going to be a mess. Hopefully this’ll be done successfully and I’ll have the EABA controller! Thanks for all of the great info in this thread!

A simple daisy chain like you do for the ground wire will suffice.

[sin7]

So, I have my hitbox in the traditional layout. I like it. I have used it for a while and it has followed my short street fighter playing career.

My problem is that I like resting my hands on top of the buttons and the buttons being Seitmitsus don’t offer much resistance and are constantly pressed when they should not be. The time when this becomes evident is when I try to block a cross up and I am hit because I did not release down. Right now, my thinking is that I need buttons that tell me when they are released. Buttons that provide some sort of tactile feedback. So far in my research I have found out that iL, Happ and Yenox buttons provide a click, but I have yet to find any buttons that are 24mm and will fit in an SE box. Any suggestions?

[xilosen]

My problem is that I like resting my hands on top of the buttons and the buttons being Seitmitsus don’t offer much resistance and are constantly pressed when they should not be.

Even if you are resting your hands on the buttons, they really shouldn’t be pressing the buttons down at all. I wouldn’t classify that as “resting your hands”.

[Rufus]

Right now, my thinking is that I need buttons that tell me when they are released. Buttons that provide some sort of tactile feedback. So far in my research I have found out that iL, Happ and Yenox buttons provide a click, but I have yet to find any buttons that are 24mm and will fit in an SE box. Any suggestions?

I’ve wanted to put buzzers in the buttons for a while now - though that would be a pretty exotic custom mod.

[sin7]

I’ve wanted to put buzzers in the buttons for a while now - though that would be a pretty exotic custom mod.

Like a piano? I wouldn’t call it exotic. Exquisite perhaps. You would have to play Dudley because anything else would be uncivilized. A good idea nonetheless.

[phaedrus]

protip: preceding doing something wrong with “I know I’m doing something wrong, but…” doesn’t excuse the whole doing something wrong.

@xilosen you should see if Art at tek-innovations will do a TE cover with the hitbox layout. That way it’d be as close to plug and play as possible, it could definitely be done without any soldering.

Art has stated he will not make em so as not to step on hitbox’s toes.

[Sskaar]

So, half-circles are kicking my butt. (which also means 360s and 720s as well). I find that I have a really hard time doing :db::d::df: or vice versa. The problem seems to be that I either hold the :db: or :df: too long, or the :d: not long enough. I frequently see that I get :db::df: in my inputs which in turn screws over the move. Do you guys have any tips for practicing getting that button rhythm down so that I don’t skip “Down” each time? Conventional wisdom says to practice slow and speed up, but it seems like past a certain speed I just always miss that one input.

Edit: Aaaand after going back reading pretty much everything, I realize I’m not using any sort of SOCD cleaning solution and inputs like :d:+:u: actually give me :uf:. I’m still sure better execution could fix it, but I’m glad I ordered a few of Toodles’ awesome toys so I’ll have to see if it gets any easier with those.

[zombat]

Sskaar - you’re using a Paewang PCB I’m guessing?

Let me know how the SOCD cleaner works out for you, I’m currently having issues with it.

As far as half circlces are concerned, an SOCD cleaner is not going to help you there, as you want down and a direction to input :db::df: respectively, else quarter circles and DPs wont work. I find that its best to concentrate on that down button when doing half circles, and my middle finger. This simple momentary focus seems to always force me to release the directional buttons for that split second needed to correctly input a half circle.

[Politank-Z]

Sskaar - you’re using a Paewang PCB I’m guessing?

Let me know how the SOCD cleaner works out for you, I’m currently having issues with it.

As far as half circlces are concerned, an SOCD cleaner is not going to help you there, as you want down and a direction to input :db::df: respectively, else quarter circles and DPs wont work. I find that its best to concentrate on that down button when doing half circles, and my middle finger. This simple momentary focus seems to always force me to release the directional buttons for that split second needed to correctly input a half circle.

Actually a SOCD cleaner can help out quite a bit. I know after I had one installed, I was able to half circle motions more consistently than I could before.

[Jannodude]

Hey guys, I’ve read the stickless arcade stick thread and I am quite confuse in building a stickless arcade stick for the Xbox 360. I’m looking for the most cost efficient route to take. It doesn’t have to be dual modded, I just want one to practice on before investing on a hitbox and having it dual modded ($160 + shipping + dual mod service = NOT cheap) just to play on a Xbox 360. Which site would you recommend me to buy a case from? I have basic understanding and skill with soldering just not sure about which pcb board + SOCD cleaner that will be most cost efficient. I will more than happy to send someone a couple bucks for their help.

Thanks

[Sskaar]

Sskaar - you’re using a Paewang PCB I’m guessing?

Let me know how the SOCD cleaner works out for you, I’m currently having issues with it.

As far as half circlces are concerned, an SOCD cleaner is not going to help you there, as you want down and a direction to input :db::df: respectively, else quarter circles and DPs wont work. I find that its best to concentrate on that down button when doing half circles, and my middle finger. This simple momentary focus seems to always force me to release the directional buttons for that split second needed to correctly input a half circle.

I’m actually using a PS360 at the moment. I’m wondering if I’m actually doing :db::d::df: all at once though which could be messing with me. I plan on switching to a MC Cthulu + Fightpad PCB for the older console support soon though, so I probably won’t actually get the cleaner since I won’t need it by the time I get around to installing it.

I find the momentary focus you’re talking about actually really helps me out too, it’s just weird to break all the other thoughts during a match to stop and think “press down” then try to resume whatever you were working on. It feels like a big break in the “flow” of thinking, and the motion itself to me. I’m gonna try working on my technique so that the proper finger timing becomes the natural “flow”.

Which site would you recommend me to buy a case from?

When I first wanted to try one, I actually got a $5 cardboard document box from Wal-Mart, printed out a template, “drilled the holes” (using a knife!), popped in the buttons and PCB, wired it up, and was off and running for very little cost. It was a very nice way to try it out for a while without sinking too much into it right away. Lasted me months actually while I was waiting on a case. Also made 3 more out of a shoebox, a shipping package, and a 3-ring binder.

[Rufus]

Hey guys, I’ve read the stickless arcade stick thread and I am quite confuse in building a stickless arcade stick for the Xbox 360. I’m looking for the most cost efficient route to take. …

What sskaar said applies, but I wanted to add:
You don’t need SOCD prevention so if you want to save costs, don’t put it in.

[Jamal_Wilson]

I was hoping someone here could help me with my problem. My cthulhu pc/ps3 pcb is wired in my case, but when I test it up + down = up which is good. But the problem is that right + left = right, and I have no idea on how to fix it does anyone have any ideas?