Sounds legit.
Yeah, I thought about that. Sucks that he doesn’t have a predefined layout for it though. Pain in the butt trying to place everything 
Hello LyleS.
I saw your Post in the Stickless Arcade Stick Thread.
Mentioned that you have a Custom to sell.
I think you are selling.
I’m not sure.
What kind of Acrylic Case is it?
arthong TEK-Case or bencao74 Acrylic Case or something else?
How much is it?
Is the wiring clean?
The Dual Mod is Automatic Detection?
I send this Private Message so you will not get in trouble.
You’re not allowed to sell anything anywhere on SRK.
But no one will know.
After I buy it, I will not show it to SRK.
Or say that I bought it from you.
A Custom Acrylic Case with Hit Box Layout and Dual Mod is worth what?
I’m willing to pay $500 for it.
Seems fair for that.
Would you put it on eBay first though.
So that I can buy it?
Because you are new to SRK.
And I want to be safe with my purchase.
Hope to receive reply back.
Thank you LyleS.
Oh fuck.
I meant to send that as Private Message.
Not as a Post in this Thread!
If you are looking for one where everything is predefined you can go here.
http://thegamesurgeons.com/Madcatz TE Replacements Panels3.html
JDM you are too funny
Ah perfect… He sells the matching plexi as well. Sweet.
I’m terribly sorry that I tried to explain why you were wrong so that sometime in the future you might be able to be slightly less wrong in a similar situation, I promise it won’t happen again…
… no really, I won’t ever try to help you again given that you are both unwilling and unable to be helped.
For guys looking into the Paewang, I got it off focusattack for cheaper than anywhere else and it came in like 2 days, they dont have the nice wire harness for it that etokki does though.
I have to read through this thread closer and figure out a SOCD solution it sounds like. My current hitbox I made is soldered directly to a 360 controller pcb and half circles are kinda hard to pull off.
RoboBOBr, sick design. I am going to sorta copy you, I have access to a laser cutter and have been struggling on inspiration for a good design, I was trying to design a box that fit together, but the layered thing is rad. Whats the specs on those nuts n bolts that fit so well? Any thoughts on rounding the sharp edges off with a router and a fine bit?
Would it be too much to ask for a list of available stickless arcade controllers (do we call them sticks if they’re stickless) like in the stick recommendation thread? Are there any commercially produced besides HitBox or do you have to get them custom made?
I remember having cheap PC versions of Mortal Kombat, Super Street Fighter II (that came with a cheap 6-button controller and a VHS copy of the Van Damme Street Fighter movie,) Super Street Fighter II Turbo and Samurai Shodown II and never thought playing with the keyboard would be actually better than with a controller. Now, I want a fighting game for my PC to try to acclimate myself to it. Can’t run Street Fighter IV until I get another video card. Weighing the moral, legal and practical ramifications of MAME.
I know it makes a big difference to charge characters. In SF4 back + forward == forward, accounting for whichever side you are on. You can hold back and then tap forward twice (or double tap, even) and do an ultra.
I surprisingly have SOCD on the saturn PCB in my stickless, and I was playing last night online and I found myself standing neutral a few times having reflexively hit too many buttons. So it does make a difference. I suppose what I would have been doing instead without SOCD blocking would depend on the PCB and the game, and so is undefined behaviour. SOCD blocking gives a consistent result.
I’m also finding my ring finger to be a bit weak on the ‘left’ key and it doesn’t like to coordinate with the middle finger, and I find it very hard to do two qcf on the rhs. Guess i’ll have to hit up some of them hitbox tutorials and look at how they do it. Or maybe look at rearranging the button so the motion no longer feels so unnatural.
I have a question. I’ve finished my stickless. The PCB I used unfortunately it has a fault in that the bottom row of buttons cannot be hit concurrently (confirmed not to be just me). As well as that, it was a part of my original design to have the stickless be dual-modded for 360 and PS3 (as well as PC). Therefore i’m looking to invest in a new PCB.
I have my eye on three. I don’t know if any of these prevent SOCD, I’d assume not. But can anyone put in suggestions of which to go with?
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ZD Encoder board, which I then dual mod with a 360 PCB later.
Pros: Cheapest.
Cons: Uses JST sockets rather than screw terminals (can’t snip or mess around with the wires too much). Not prepped for dual-modding so I’d have to use an external switch. -
Dual strike.
Pros: Reprogrammable (could program in SOCD blocking?)
360 pass-through -
Paewang PCB
Pros: Smallest, simplest solution, with all wires to fit
Cons: Most pricey
Suggestions?
The only way you can get custom sticks like hitbox is custom made, i know bencao has a custom plexi hitbox case, alot of popular builders can also make hitbox cases(souji comes to mind here).
Now if you want to turn your commercial stick into a hitbox, the only place that comes to mind is lightning label customs as they create hitbox panels for a lot of the more popular manufactured sticks.
Rotanadan, just regular nuts and bolts with hexagon head. As for routing the edges - i never tried, because i like them the way they are.
sikwidit, I don’t have a custom stick yet. Was thinking of trying to find a Brawl SE as they’re relatively cheap, and I read somewhere they’re alot better than older Mad Catz SE sticks. Also saw on Instructables.com where someone made a homemade enclosure, bought buttons and soldered them onto the PCB of a 360 controller. I have a wireless controller that won’t let a rechargeable battery pack charge and won’t work with the standard AA pack, and that’s collecting dust. Would maybe considering using that for the PCB, but I have no soldering experience. Know a friend who used to have a job where she soldered, though. I’m wondering how hard it is. I saw somewhere in the thread (can’t find it now) where he said he did it, but is having trouble with half circle motions. Also, wondering if there’s a way to convert it from a wireless to a wired since the controller won’t work on battery power.
I made a cardboard hitbox today to try it out:
- Kind of skeptical after day 1. My left ring finger is sore (is this normal?) and it’s not as intuitive as I thought it would be. How long does it take to get used to this?
- Any other 360 shortcuts other than
:d::f::u:+:p: and :d::f::d::u:+:p: (and the opposites)? - SOCD means +:f: = :f: and SOCD cleaned means +:f: = neutral? Cleaned is inferior, right?
:d::f::u:+:p: and Not quite; SOCD (Simultaneous Opposite/Opposing Cardinal Directions) means that the board can send the console both left and right at the same time, and let the game software figure it out. As this isn’t really something that can be done on a stick or a D-Pad (though it can be done if you use both), it’s usually not something that the programmers take into consideration. As such, it’s handled irregularly in different games. In the original release of MvC3, it allowed for some pretty messed up stuff – IIRC, automatically blocking both directions, and instant charging for charge characters. This caused a bit of a scare, with people speaking out against the evils of stickless controllers because they provided an incredible unfair advantage. Now AE handles it as forward, UMvC3 (and I believe patched MvC3) handles it (I think) as a neutral, so it’s not really an advantage in the major games anymore… but the point is, it’s inconsistent. It’s also inconsistent for down+up.
SOCD cleaning means that either the board or a secondary circuit (like Toodles’ cleaner kit) is set up to make opposites cancel each other out, or consistently allow one direction over the other. Most people opt for left+right = neutral, and down+up = up. By having an SOCD-cleaned stick, you get consistent results across every game, and you also put peoples’ fears to rest (even though the software has fixed those problems anyway… people don’t all know that).
That being said, uncleaned inputs make certain inputs easier. If you’re only going to be playing a few games, and prefer, say, AE’s left+right=forward, feel free to stick with it. Or clean just the vertical axis. However you want to do it. But know that a later software update, or a new version of a game, or a different game, could change how it works, so watch out for that.
Hope that makes sense and is helpful!
Thanks underwing. My PCB cleans SOCD automatically, which is unfortunate because I thought I’d be able to do SRK from downback more easily, sonic boom motion without releasing back, etc.
Anyway, I had high hopes for the hitbox but I don’t have the finger dexterity required to do simple combos like SRK -> FADC -> Ultra from P2 side (or SRK -> FADC backdash -> Ultra from P1 side). Back to the stick I go.
I’ve been using my stickless controller (henceforth SLC, not sure if anyone uses that acronym but I’m sick of typing it out every time) for awhile now and I absolutely love it. I wanted to share some general impressions which might be helpful to anyone who isn’t sure whether an SLC is right for them.
So for starters, I’m biased towards an SLC for a few reasons:
- I’m a pianist/guitarist
- I’m a long-time PC gamer
- I shuffle poker chips with my left hand all day every day (I can’t imagine that’s especially relevant, but I really felt there should be three points here).
Don’t get me wrong, I’ve logged plenty of hours in arcades and on regular joysticks at home. It’s not like using a joystick is some awkward thing for me; it’s just that there’ve always been plenty of things that I’ve just not liked about them.
The number one thing I’ve always disliked about joysticks is the ambiguity. This is a personal opinion, and I’m sure many disagree, but even on a nice octo-gate Sanwa stick I’ve always had trouble knowing exactly how far I have to move the stick to get the exact inputs I need. The problems generally manifest themselves in the corners, but I’ve also had other problems like missing a DP because I didn’t come back far enough to trigger 2 after 6, so I end up doing 6 5 3 instead of 6 2 3. I don’t think a lot of people have the same problem or feel the same way as I do, but if you do, an SLC might be a good solution.
Obviously with an SLC there is no ambiguity. If you didn’t block low it’s because you didn’t think you had to.
One of the reasons why joysticks can feel ambiguious is because in your brain, each of the nine joystick positions are stored as very slightly different wrist angles. Having a precise mental picture of each position is difficult, and if you hold the stick differently, have a different posture or sit in an unfamiliar chair, your muscle memory is all thrown off and you have to start all over again.
On an SLC, each of the nine positions are stored in your brain as a combination of four fingers; it’s very easy to get a feel for the buttons, and if your posture changes or you’re sitting in an awkward chair or what have you, it doesn’t matter. It’s like, “wrist-to-joystick” data is stored in your brain as an analog location in space, but “finger-to-button” data is stored as four binary entries. Instead of down/back being “this certain angle of your wrist in three dimensional space”, it becomes “TRUE TRUE FALSE FALSE” which, in theory, should be much easier to process.
I think plenty of other articles and videos have demonstrated all the cool things you can do with an SLC so I won’t bother repeating them here, but I do want to mention some of the hurdles an SLC player will need to overcome.
First of all, it seems that everyone will have a motion they struggle with when they first start. For me it was left-facing DPs, although I’ve read a lot of people saying they’ve had problems with half circles (never been a problem for me). It wasn’t a big deal; I probably spent about half an hour over a few days specifically practicing left-facing DPs, and now they’re fine.
Second and more importantly, because you’re given so much precise control it can be difficult to maintain control in intense situations. It’s hard to explain exactly what I mean, it just feels sometimes that if you let your hand “freak out” a bit, you’re even less likely to get the input you wanted than you were on a stick. An extreme example would be if you’re getting crossed up, and unsure whether or not to block left or right you might press both, which means you get neither, which means you get hit. It’s a bit more subtle than that, but there’s a certain feeling of autopilot with a stick that is kind of lost; if you start mashing, you’re done. It’s hard to argue that it’s a bad thing, but it will lead to more losses at first (but fewer losses in the future).
A couple other things I wanted to mention:
-
I’ve heard some people complain about wrist strain – hasn’t been a problem for me at all.
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It’s very important to start out keeping your fingers as close to the buttons as you can when not pressing them. It drives me nuts to see even some of the hitbox guys holding their fingers a good 1" above the buttons when not pressing them; that will needlessly lower your response times.
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I mentioned posture not being a problem earlier. Just wanted to add, it’s really cool to be able to shift your posture without affecting your performance, especially over long sessions.
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I only use six buttons on the right hand. I don’t understand why people use eight, to me that’s just adding needless clutter and extra brain processing.
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My SLC looks like ass right now, else I’d post pictures
It’s in a $3 cigar box covered by contact paper. I might use some xmas money to make a nice box for it, but for now it’s not lookin so hot.
It’s in a $3 cigar box covered by contact paper. I might use some xmas money to make a nice box for it, but for now it’s not lookin so hot.And that’s about it. If anyone has any feedback, feel free to reply or PM me. Thanks again to everyone who helped me get my box working, and I hope someone finds this reveiw useful.
:tup:
Nice
Is it cheaper for me to make a SLC from scratch (as in having none of the parts) or buy a hitbox?
More a working prototype than a completed thing, I was going to MAGfest this year and wanted to be able to play regardless of system.
Prior to this my stickless arcade stick was a real mess of a thing, a frankenstein conglomeration of bits of wood plexiglass and epoxy, off a cannabalized Madcatz SE. So while I was home for the holidays I began an exploratory project for a fightstick. I ended up having to rush the job so I wasn’t able to paint up a cover. Reaching for the nearest, colorful, printed thing, ‘Two Scoops’ was born.
The hole in the middle, in case you’re wondering, is for an actual stick; the notion being that if someone else wanted to play while visiting or while I was visiting it’d function as a joystick arcade stick as well. It currently functions as a clever way to pick up the stick! The button on the inside of the box is the turbo button. I’ll be putting it on one of the sides, eventually.
Additionally, the plexiglass ends ‘early’ because I was going to add a bevel from the plexi down to the wood using apoxie sculpt, but then the rasin bran box worked … too well … as a shoddy bit around the edges. At one point I started to cut it straight but realized it took away from the character. You may also notice the cracking plexi - this is due to the cardboard’s springiness (I used the box you get a sam’s club, that is corrugated)
I made it open like the Mortal Kombat special edition stick because not only would that make button swaps stupidly easy, but you can also store the cord and anything else you need (milk, a small bowl, etc) easily in the box.
Experienced modders will notice that I’m using a Paewang PCB. However, I’m having an issue on the PS3, where if I hold down and up at the same time it’ll input up and to the right, instead of only up, which does NOT happen on the 360. Have not attempted to use it with a PC yet.
As I mentioned, this is more of a working prototype than anything finished. The future stick that I’m going to make will feature …
- Use a latch system to keep it shut, instead of wire wrapped around two screws
- Plexi for the bottom so I can make the box itself even more low-profile.
- Bevel the vertical corners
- Custom Art, painted by myself
- Start/Select/Turbo/Home buttons on the back side of the box, instead of the top.
- Detachable USB cable and jack. The Paewang’s standard cord is abominably short, and having a few options stored inside the box would be cool.
- Microphone Input! I still have to figure out how to add this but its frustrating not being able to speak with my 360 buddies while playing.
It went over real well at MAGfest, and I think I’m going to be taking it to Winterbrawl 