http://a.yfrog.com/img736/1428/cj00.jpg
Nice fix.
W
I personally would wait a week or so for Jaleel to restock to save me $30+ but I guess some of you rockefellers got the cash to burn -_-"
I’d have time to wait anyways, since I’d be ordering in december.
In stock now, fixed that for you.
Paewang is working great for me. Wish it had autodetect, but meh.
FYI, with Paewang, L+R -> L, and U+D -> U+R. You’ll definitely want to clean up SOCD.
Does anyone know if it’s a quirk of the 360 TE pcb that makes rapidly going from df/db and vice versa not register a plain down? I’ve noticed playing around with KOF13, which unlike other games I’ve played doesn’t recognize df/db as down for hcb/hcf’s, that I am having trouble executing double hcb/hcf DM’s. I have tried to force myself to never hit 3 fingers down but I think that may actually work better (not sure, but at least in windows the madcatz pcb registers LRD as D). The more I look at it in windows it seems like the actual problem is when very rapidly moving from df/db to db/df (while continuously holding Down with my middle finger).
I also use dual strike (Teasy Strike) and am familiar with atmel coding (though not an expert), so I’ve already coded up a custom firmware that makes it a bit more forgiving in PC/PS3 modes, but it’s kind of irrelevant if I don’t have the same functionality in X360 mode. Just posting up to see if buying a new x360 PCB is my only option, or perhaps if that’s a quirk of all current 360 pcbs and I just need to slow down…
There doesn’t exist any 360 capable boards that will do SOCD cleaning. The only option is to clean them yourself with hardware. DanAdamKOF’s thread (and schematic, just above) covers how to make your own, or you can order a kit from me to do it. Either way is way cheaper than a different 360 pcb, as long as you know what end of a soldering iron to hold.
Thanks for the reply, Toodles. I looked into the socd cleaner kit (thx for making that btw) but it wasn’t obvious to me that it would help with the te pcb issue I’m having. I’m not clear how it cleans up down+left+right, would it be neutral? I hope for down. Sorry if this was already answered in the kits thread, I don’t remember seeing it.
Cheers
It would be down.
Thank you, I’ll definitely order one to try it out. Also, I actually read through more of the replies here and realized you guys already discussed it, sorry for posting without adding value
Hi Guys,
I know this should probably be in the trading thread but I’m just testing the waters really.
I’m looking at selling a custom Hit Board that I had made for me, it’s all Sanwa and in an acrylic, completely transparent case. It’s also dual modded. I haven’t got 50 posts so I can’t put this in the trading forum yet but I was just wondering if there would be any interest for this. If anyone want’s to see any pictures or anything, please respond to this or drop me a PM.
Thanks guys
Lyle
Just finished building my stickless stick. Pictures should be coming this coming w/e.
I’m not sure if I chose the best layout for the keys. I went by where my fingers rested in a neutral position, but gave no forethought to convenience for things like double-tapping etc. It wasn’t very dissimilar to the hitbox layout but with subtle differences.
Ridiculously easy to do ‘two qcf’ (in sf4, with shortcuts): hit the down button at the edge, double tap right but keep the second finger held on the button, let the first finger slide off down (happens as one natural movement that began when hitting the button), hit action button.
I wish i’d installed a fourth pair of buttons because i’m finding it hard to hit all three kick buttons at once. Punches aren’t a problem, just kicks.
UPDATE: Hm, seems some of the sanwas have started to SQUEEK when pressed? Why are these things reputed for their quality?
No selling in Tech Talk. Unless you have 6 months and the 50 posts, you aren’t allowed to sell at all.
I currently have a Chun-Li TE stick. I seem to always have problems with directional input. However, after trying out SSF4AE on the PC with a keyboard, I was able pull off moves a lot easier and was able to fly by the missions when I had struggled a lot with stick. So I’m wanting to get a hitbox stick.
I live in Texas and suck at modding. Never done any soldering or anything either. I know the hitbox people sell premade ones but I don’t like the sound of all the problems people are having with them from the thread. So, what would be the best way to get a hitbox setup?
I don’t mean to argue, but I don’t recall actually trying to sell at all. As I said, I’m just testing the waters to see if there would be any interest in actually trying to sell one of these as to if I should bother trying to shift it on.
So to be quite frank, maybe you should read my post for what it actually is and not just go hammering an infraction just because my post had an selling undertone to it.
protip: preceding doing something wrong with “I know I’m doing something wrong, but…” doesn’t excuse the whole doing something wrong.
@xilosen you should see if Art at tek-innovations will do a TE cover with the hitbox layout. That way it’d be as close to plug and play as possible, it could definitely be done without any soldering.
I don’t recall saying, “I know I’m doing something wrong, but…” either. Can anyone round here actually read?
have you even read your own post?
"I know** this should probably be in the trading thread** but I’m just testing the waters really."
I know this should be in a place where it is not but I’m going to put it here anyway because the rules don’t apply to me.
I thought that a general discussion about about a stickless stick would probably be best for the stickless stick thread, sorry if I’m wrong. Also, what you quoted was actually in confusion as to where to post my question not about being exempt from the rules, take that chip of your shoulder bro, no one needs or wants to hear your horrible attitude and whining.
Bwahahahah.
“No officer, I wasn’t trying to SELL crack, I was just asking if you wanted to BUY some crack. Maybe there was a selling undertone, but you should look past that at what I really said.”