yeah those diagrams. Here’s what I came up with (note that this looks like shit, and we’re using triple gate chips because that’s all they had at Fry’s):
Basically, in this schematic up gets inverted; then up and down meet at the next NAND; then the output from that NAND is inverted and sent to the Down pcb input. Up has an unfiltered connection to the Up pcb input.
The final output truth table should look like this:
A B Output
N 1 0 0
D 1 1 1
U 0 0 0
D+U 0 1 0
EDIT: Oh, I should’ve been more specific about what I meant by frying the chip. I’m worried about the heat from the soldering iron, not the electrical current
L+R = N needs 6 gates from what I can tell, three for each direction. For Right, you’d use the first gate to invert L, then the second gate combines L and R, and then the third gate inverts that output. That gives this truth table:
N 0
L 0
R 1
L+R 0
Then you just do the same for the other three gates, swapping L and R
Looking in the other thread, your truth tables for Filtered A (lets assume that’s Right) would look like:
N 1
L 0
R 1
L+R 1
which means that the only time R isn’t firing is when you’re pressing L without pressing R - which means your character would constantly walk left unless you pressed right. If you did this on both sides, then your PCB would do whatever it does when you press left+right together, no matter what buttons you pressed.
But you said you tested these with a breadboard and it works right, so that’s why I’m left scratching my head. I feel I must be missing something about the way the chip logic works.
I’m replacing all the buttons and each old button had 2 same-colored wires attached to it (see below)… is one of these in each pair supposed to be the ground specifically? Does it matter which prongs on the sanwa buttons I connect them to?
I’m removing the wires from the joystick harness and separating them to the 4 directional pushbuttons and daisychaining the black ground wire to all of them. Does that sound right?
It depends on the component. My experience is it’s not a big problem: I’ve unintentionally destroyed components with electrical current, not sure I’ve managed to do that with the soldering iron.
Hello all ! I’m happy with my madcatz TE modded into an hitbox. But now I want to dualmod it, it’s a ps3 TE and I want to be able to play on xbox360.
What is the best option for me ? I was thinking of using a PS360 pcb but it seems I can wait a long time for it. My other option is to padhack a 360 pcb and use an Imp. Now I don’t know how the SOCD will be with the 360 pcb. Right now I didn’t do anything for SOCD cleaning and it’s fine. When I push L+R or UP+DOWN, both of them give me neutral.
If you guys have better suggestion, let me hear them. Sorry if I ask so many questions, it seems this will be some work for me as I never modded apart for simply splitting the joystick harness.
I did try out an actual “hitbox”. I’m too used to playing on a keyboard using A,S,D,SPACE + numpad. My hands are kinda large so I went and spaced it out a bit.
I’ve never done any modding before. How hard would it be for me to turn my TE into a hitbox as a first time mod. I’m dying to get my hands on one, but I don’t have the money at the moment and I’m feeling really impatient with UMvC3 coming out soon. I have been looking into turning one of my two TE’s into a hitbox for awhile now but I just don’t even know where to start.
I’m considering making a stickless stick. Just wondering what the easiest route would be to make it dual-modded? I don’t believe the PS360s are still anywhere to be found, and I have minimal experience doing any sort of modding (outside of simple things like replacing buttons/stick. I have a friend who’d be willing to help out, I’m just wondering what the best (and cheapest) option would be.
if you know how to mod a brawlpad and a chimp smd is cheap… there are other methods but that is the most cost effective… if you arent comfortable doing a mod hit up your local modder and we will be able to help you out… atleast that way you arent spending all this money to mess up and have to possibly spend more… most of us modders also back up our work so that if there are problems we fix it on our dime… not yours…
You mean the Madcatz Brawlpad? I have a Madcatz fightpad (one of the original ones (the Chun-Li one)), but doing that would still be far more than I’ve done before. And sadly, since I live in rural Minnesota, there really aren’t any local modders around here.
Looks good. Would I need to worry about the issue where if left and right are both pressed, it registers both? Otherwise, as long as I’m able to afford it (that plus a bunch of wire and 24mm buttons will add up…fast), I’m gonna think about going for it.