Replace.
Cool. Is the stock LS-56 shaft cover and dustwasher the only ones that can be used with it?
LS-40(-01) can used.
Cool, gonna order that.
So, I used a spring from home depot, and this thing is twice as thick, and the compression is 5 times as much resistance as stock LS-56. I threw my SE back together, and just played MVC2,MVC1,SVC:Chaos,ST and SSFIV, because each game has a varying degree of execution, I could pull everything perfectly. Even MVC2 wave dashing into a diagonal pop-up.
Only problem, my hand started to cramp fiercely after an hour, and then I could barely do a Hadouken.
For people who want to know what parts are interchangeable amongst different joysticks and pushbutton brands, you need to bookmark this site ā Joystick Controller - Joystick and Button Attributes and Brand Parts
Seimitsu in particular makes many of the parts interchangeable amongst its joystick line.
Examples ā
LS-32 and LS-40 lines use the same springs and mounting plates;
LS-33, LS-55, LS-56 lines use the same PCB. Note that while technically there is no LS-33-01 in production it has been confirmed that you can replace the pronged PCB on the LS-33 with a 5-pin harness PCB from either the LS-55-01 or LS-56-01;
the LS-40 and LS-55 lines use the same shaft covers;
and so onā¦
At the end of the joystick section, there is a short mix and match mod list for people who want to try swapping components amongst different brands.
This is a really good site to bookmark because it will answer well over half the questions most of us will ever have about the joysticks and their components. It grades things like throw, resistance, and pivots among the different joysticks as well.
I wish the Sanwa and Seimitsu FAQ were an actual organized short FAQ list with all the different web links and diagrams on it instead of an increasingly longer thread. I know the experience of searching for information on SRK and getting stuck with looking a long thread (the Sanwa-Seimitsu FAQ is already 66 pages long!) for a small piece of information. Itās just not a fun experience!!
You really have to keep on top of these things for yourselves and BOOKMARK or archive them. It saves time when you have the material in front of you for reference and donāt have to bug the moderators and older SRK members for a statistic or part number for the fifth or six timeā¦ Iām sure the most basic questions have been asked several hundred times in the past year-and-a-half on SRK.
About these: Seimitsu PS-14-DNK, klar - Arcadeshop.de
What does ānon-clicking microswitchā mean? Do they make less noise or something?
They are quiet. The common microswitches (Cherry, Saia, Honeywell and similar) make a clicking noise when activated.
How would you guys say the LS-33 feels? Iāve used the LS-32 (which is my preference) and the LS-56 (a bit too tight for my preferenceā¦) which would you guys say its closer to?
I would say that the LS-33 feels like a looser and lighter version of the LS-32. Diagonals felt a bit tougher to engage for some reason, but maybe itās just me getting used to the stick after using it for the first time.
The mounting plate that it comes with actually has holes that match up with the Sanwa JLFās mounting plate holes, but depending on what youāre mounting it into, may involve widening the holes with a drill tool (size of screw is what really matters here). I was switching out a JLF for an LS-33 today from my MayFlash stick, so this all I have to say about this for now.
I was looking at it for a potential mod into a EX2 or Tekken 6 stickā¦ looks like it may be the closest I can get to a compact LS-32 for these shallow stick. How is the throw distance compared to the LS-32?
IIRC the LS-33 is even lighter and has an even farther throw than the JLF. Itās more similar to that than an LS-32.
Please forgive me but I didnt see the question I am going to ask anywhere on the forums. I have a Tournament Edition stick. I want to upgrade my buttons. I know it either has to be sanwa or seimitsu buttons. I am going with seimitsu because I didnt see transparent ones for sanwa. With that being said, what model number do I pick from lizardlick for transparent buttons that are seimitsu? I guess I dont know if I am supposed to get snap on or screw ons. I heard screw-ons are better but, one I dont know which one will work on the TE. I think someone mentioned snap-ons for the SE stick but then they listed 3 different model numbers.
Thanks in advance.
AFAIK, by default, all Madcatz TE sticks come with Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons: 30mm snap-ins. These are pretty easy to find from all the websites that sell arcade parts and are pretty standard these days among people that own arcade sticks.
30mm screw-in and snap-in buttons both fit if you want to replace those face buttons on your TE. If you want to replace the Start and Select buttons on the TEās upper right edge, youāll have to get 24mm buttons for those. Screw-on buttons are easier to remove and install as long as the plastic nut (which comes with each individual buttons) is easy to access. Snap-in buttons are easy to install and make a click noise once they are put in place, but excessive removal of the snap-ins may ruin their ability to put perfectly settle in. Try both buttons to see which one you like more.
Lizard Lick appears to have several Seimitsu 30mm translucent buttons, with an optional LED light.
Sanwa OSBF/OSBN buttons are generally more sensitive to the touch than Seimitsu GN/KN buttons. This may bother some players, while other players prefer it. You may want to compare the two buttons yourself to see which one fits you best. Either one of these buttons will work with the TE-- all you have to do is put the quick disconnects onto them correctly.
Thanks royalphulsh for answering my questions man. I wasnāt sure if it had to be snap ins only for the TE stick. I probably will go with the seimitsu buttons because I want to keep my cutouts so they show up through the translucent ones.
Does anyone know why sanwa doesnāt make translucent ones?
I have a quick, but noobish question: how do you remove the connectors from the buttons?
The stick in question is the Mad Catz 360 TE Fight Stick (SF4), and the buttons are Sanwa.
Iāve tried simply pulling them out, but it seems to require more force, and I donāt want to break them. Is there some tab I should be pushing in, should I use pliers, or am I just supposed to pull harder?
Get a small flat-headed screwdriver and place it between the button terminal prong and the top of the Quick Disconnects.
You should able to remove the QDās easily after a few wiggles to loosen the QDās from the terminal prongs.
Pliers and pulling harder can RUIN both the button terminal prongs AND your Quick Disconnects!
Ah, I see.
tries it
I canāt seem to get it to work.
EDIT: Upon some googling, I found that you have to pinch them as you take them off. This makes much more sense than trying to use a screwdriver. They are, after all, called āquick disconnectsā.
Just as GeorgeC mentioned, it takes a bit to take them off. My Qanba stick came with the same type of QDs and I just used excessive force by hand to pull them off. Eventually itāll get easier to disconnect them while my VLX had hard plastic QD which made it a bit easier but they were very very tight.
Never had any difficulty removing buttons with a small screwdriver. You just have to wedge it in there on top of the QD and wiggle the thing off. Never lost a QD removing it that way!
Sometimes QDās are tight on the terminal prongs but theyāve all come off nicely!
As for JLFās in my copies of the deluxe SA models of the HRAP seriesā¦ For some reason, they really are screwed on tight and hard to remove without a power drill. I had to use a power drill to unscrew my HRAP 3 SA JLF so that I could sell it to raise money for as LS-32-01. (Turns out I managed to do a nice trade with another SRK member for an LS-32-01 in the end.) I was able to fix the thread problem I had on that case by using the power drill to install my stickās screws in again. That joystick mount had tight tolerances!
Unfortunately, with my new V3 SA Iām encountering the same tightness again. Probably some assembly line work put the screws in too tight as well as there being mounting area threads that are ānot conducive to screw removal.ā Once again, my power drill is going to have work on that problem, too!
Iām going to get some new buttons for my SE stick over the next few days. I have one question: Between Sanwa and Seimitsu, which buttons are more āclickyā? I absolutely love the feedback of a button that clicks loudly and snaps downward instantly. Any input?