They will go in.
But the Slot on Button Plunger will not match Actuator of Microwitch.
What jdm714 said. All this really means is the plunger spins a little; the feel of the buttons with the RG switches is actually pretty nice, and they actuate just fine. They actuate early with lighter tension, similar to normal Sanwa buttons, but slightly stiffer (though less stiff than Seimitsus in general).
Note that because the female faces of the switch and plunger contact do not āmateā, the plungers are raised slightly higher than normal. They look like this:
Thank you for that picture RoboKrikit.
Hmmā¦ I recommended that same idea to a friend of mine. 
Would super glue be helpful for attaching the microswitch onto the solid colored plunger on the inside?
Thanks for the info guys. After I mod my LS-32 into an LS-36, I will try this out.
This was the choice of the potentially useful threads that was already at the top of the page, but Iām growing weary of my SFIV fightstick SEās quirks, and Iām a bigger guy so Iām looking to, at least, replace the buttons with the Seimitsu equivalents for a stiffer feel.
I looked at a tutorial that discussed the fact that the 5pin connector was upside down, and you needed to install the joystick sideways, then spin the plate containing the microswitches (I think?) 90 degrees to get it to fit properly into the slot and have appropriate x and y axis motions without having to screw around in software.
Lizardlick specifically has a Sanwa joystick that they call a drop-in upgrade for the Madcatz Fightstick, with the right 5pin connector and everything. How much more work am I going to be looking at if I go with an LS-32-01 instead, which LS-32-01 should I look at, and it will feel in general ātighterā than the sanwa knockoff currently in the fightstick?
Also, as the Seimitsu joysticks are, per common sentiment, a fair bit āstifferā than the Sanwa equvalents, Iām curious how the stiffness of the Sanwa joystick and the Seimitsu joystick compare to the stock madcatz joystick? A common problem that Iāve been having is in going from crouching back to back neutral, I have a tendency to move to jumping back, despite the fact that when Iām trying to jump back intentionally, I have to move the damn thing all the way into the corner. I assume it has something to do with microswitch/actuator design, QA and consistency, but Iām wondering if anyone has done this upgrade or had this problem and noticed a difference?
I could have posted this in the Madcatz SF4 fightstick modding thread too, but this thread seems more equipped to answer my queries regarding the differences between the two brands.
Thank you for your time.
There is only one Seimitsu LS-32-01.
To make go into Mad Catz, you just unscrew Mounting Plate, rotate 90, screw back on.
Or you can use more time by unscrewing more screws and rotate the PCB itself, then screw back.
What you want is the Mounting Plate to be parallel with Connector.
May as well do it the second way though.
Because PCB gets in way of screwing Mounting Plate to Mounting Bracket.
Orientation of the Connector?
You want it away from the Buttons.
I would try swapping the switches as-is before gluing or modifying anything, to see how you like it. Itās not really necessary to āfixā IMHO. Playability is not hindered. Plus, those RG switches are pretty pricey. If you super glue it in, youāre mating the switch to the button for life.
so i got 6 ps 14 kn buttons if i switch the micro switch out of the obsf 30 will that work? Does anyone have or mind doin a pic tutorial on this?
If you want to stay with the Sanwa JLF, you could also replace the spring with an LS-55 spring, which makes the tension much tighter. I prefer this spring over the default JLF springā¦ but I still prefer the JLF over any of the Seimitsu sticks. Especially for the SE and TE sticks, it seems like they were made for the JLF more than any other stick.
question:
on a scale of 1 - 10 how loose is the sanwa JLF ? i canāt stand sticks that are too loose and i got one ordered and on the way
i donāt got any spare parts liein around so is their a wayto tightin up the tension without changing the spring?
if 1 is a joystick with no spring in it and a 10 is a happ comp, then iād give the JLF a 3. The LS-32 is about a 4.
No work.
But you can do what RoboKrikit and I mentioned in this Thread, on Page 55.
Only Seimitsu PS-14-K (PS-15 also) take Sanwa SW-68 Microswitch.
ahh got so what do u get out of that? i love the sound the seimitsu makes and the feel
After reading your Post again, I got confused.
Laugh.
In which direction are you going?
i just the posts u guys were discussing about the modā¦ive never heard of it so what advantage u get with the sanwa rg switches on a seimitsu button
You know, Iāve got a question regarding the whole putting Sanwa RG-SG microswitches in PS-14-G, GN, and KN buttons. I thought that, at least for the PS-14-G buttons, the RG-SG microswitches fitted just fine without any plunger-microswitch mismatching issues? I mean, didnāt the original PS-14-GX buttons use the exact same RG microswitch that Sanwa did in their OBSF/N-30-RG buttons?
LS-56 in a TE - which mounting plate?
Yes, Seimitsu PS-14-GX and PS-14-GXN has same Plunger as Sanwa OBSF-30RG and OBSN-30RG and OBSC-30RG.
But Plunger on PS-14-G is different.
It is a Slot, like on Sanwa (Sanwa and Seimitsu different Slot sizes and orientation though).
Plungers that fit OMRON B2R are Square hole.
Here see:
Sanwa OBSF-30RG and OBSF-30
http://blog-imgs-27.fc2.com/e/r/w/erwin1/20080926030137.jpg
(Image by Erwin from http://erwin1.blog64.fc2.com/blog-entry-7.html site.)
Seimitsu PS-14-GX and PS-14-G
http://blog-imgs-27.fc2.com/e/r/w/erwin1/ps-14-gx_.jpg
(Image by Erwin from http://erwin1.blog64.fc2.com/blog-entry-1.html site.)
Zapf, you will need Seimitsu MS Mounting Plate.
That is found on the LS-33 and LS-55(-01) Joysticks.