So I went ahead and did something I don’t think much people have done or even thought about-did the microswitch mod(seen in the JLF Ultimate Mod video) for the LS-32. Literally used the same small pieces of paper I had used for the JLF. It feels pretty nice, like a looser LS-56(I always thought the LS-32 had a larger engage than the 56, but maybe it was just me). Has anyone else done this?
Hi!
I’m new to the SRK forums and this thread has helped me a lot!
Just wanted to say thanks! ; D
well i just bought the LS55 
Quick question, does anyone know exactly how to switch out the inserts on the Sanwa Restrictor plates? I would like to actually move a square gate insert into my Ascii Gate which is octagonal standard. The Ascii Gate fits a little more snug on Ascii joysticks, but I can’t get used to Octagonal restriction. I know it’s possible, but I don’t have a clue how to do it.
[media=youtube]jQLXRD-0GBg[/media]
New user here, believe it or not I’ve read every page in this thread and searched the forum, but cannot find the definitive answer to my question.
I’m building my first stick and want to use a JLF stick. My current (temporary, practice, “Let’s see if I can get this piece of junk to work”) PCB is not common ground, but in future I’m quite likely to buy an xbox 360 game stick to chop up for this project, which is common ground.
To use a JLF with my current pad I’m aware I can either cut the traces on the JLF’s PCB, or desolder the switches and remove the PCB altogether. Since I might want to use the JLF PCB in the future (with a common ground pad), I’m leaning towards the second method however my question is this:
Does using the stock switches desoldered from the PCB result in any difference to the way the stick feels at all?
This thread http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=178266 seems to agree that the PCB is not required to hold the switches in place against the shaft, the holes do that. However does the restirctor gate not sit too high when it is replaced (high when the stick is upside down), can the switches not slide up and down by the thickness of the JLF’s PCB that is now removed? If so, isn’t this a problem?
(I know I could go with LS-32 or JLW instead, but I’m pretty set on the JLF. If it comes to it I’d rather buy some loose switches as close to the stock Omrons as I can get and leave the JLF’s PCB unmolested in a drawer)
EDIT: This thread http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=169652&page=2 and picture shows the cherries fit perfectly under the gate with the PCB removed, but as I say I don’t wan’t to use cherries, rather keep some stiff switches in there).
You would think removing the PCB would make for slack in the Restrictor Gate sitting.
But the design of the black Base does not make for that to happen.
If you have Sanwa JLF in hand, you see that Microswitch sits on a raised section.
With or without the PCB, the Microswitch will still be on a raised section.
The PCB is cut to go in a recess.
So nothing happens when the PCB is removed.
Microswitches fit same.
Microswitch fit same, so Restrictor Gate fit same.
what about picking up the joystick PCB from a madcatz SE stick? you could probably get one for super cheap, hack it up for now and then switch to the jlf when you get the new common ground PCB.
Thanks jdm714 it makes sense that the switches are fixed without stressing the PCB or soldered joints. I’ve not ordered my JLF yet so could not see for myself, but after watching videos of other people with theirs I was not sure whether the switches would be firmly fixed. Good news then!
@spektrum, my soldering skills aren’t great but I don’t think that solution will work so well. My directions have two grounds between them, so I think I’d still need to cut traces at two points (vs the four normally needed) as if I connect the two grounds together and start activating directions I get some unexpected directions appearing on screen…and probably worse happens if I were to start testing all the direction/button combinations as well!
I’ll include some generic (yenox) switches with my order as they are cheap enough to try and throw away if I don’t like them, in which case I’ll use the sanwa switches and remove the PCB. I’ve become really quite attached to my solder-practice temporary PCB, it’s from a secondhand generic PC controller and despite having separate grounds it does have digital triggers meaning I can have 8 buttons without any hassle.
So I got my LS-40-01 today, and it feels AWESOME. Engage is great and the small throw keeps me on track when blocking and such. I also got some GNC’s but encountered a problem. As I was replacing one of my Sanwa buttons(the one closest to the joystick) I noticed that it doesn’t fit because there’s not enough room to screw it in(the metal plate is in the way). Any help?
Which Arcade Stick you are modify?
You are saying the Seimitsu not fit right?
The Sanwa is fit?
Whoops forgot to specify, the TE stick. The Sanwa snap-ins are perfect of course but the GNC screw in won’t. Pretty sure for every other button it will fit but not the one closest to the metal plate.
It is Mounting Bracket.
Mounting Plate is what on Joystick.
Wedge the Nut under Mounting Bracket.
Then screw Button in.
Normally, you would put in Button, then screw on Nut.
But for this, do opposite.
This is only work for Seimitsu.
With Sanwa, the Nut is too big to fit.
So for Sanwa, would have to file Nut down.
Or just use Seimitsu Nut on Sanwa Button.
I just tried to do that but it’s still a bit too big. I think I’ll have to grind the Seimitsu nut by a little but how can I go about doing that(noob question)?
Are there any American distributors that sell the LS-40? There are some that sell the LS-40-01, but I’m looking for the one with the tabs you’d attach QDs to.
I also have an LS-40-01 installed in my TE. This also happened to me when I first received my LS-40, although it was installed in a HRAP2 at the time. I’ll assume you’re having the same problem.
There are actually two versions of the SS plate; one comes stock with the LS-32 and the other is a stand-alone version. The one you want is the plate that comes stock with the LS-32. Reason being, is that the corners are slightly larger on the stand-alone version, which results in it digging into or interfering with the button closest to it. It also has two less screw holes for mounting, but that’s another issue.
Luckily for me, I had ordered it from Aki so all I had to do was send an email and he sent me the plate I needed, free of charge.
It matters due to the joystick I’m using? I watched ShinJN’s tech review of the TE and he stated that it’s due to the mounting bracket(he couldn’t fit the screw-in button even when there was no stick). I’m pretty sure I tried it only while the LS-40-01 was on so that might’ve been the problem but I doubt it. I think screw-in buttons have problems regardless when it comes to the TE(and SE). D=
I have a few questions my first question is i want to replace the existing buttons in my madcatz te fight stick however i want to make sure i buy the right ones. I am looking for some black ones for a custom template but i don’t want to replace it with lower grade quality sanwa parts than i already have. Next Is it possible to get a sanwa joystick with a black top (ball) with a white shaft ? can i screw on and off the balls?
Sanwa makes all black buttons now, and you can use a black ball top. I’ve yet to see a white shaft cover, you’d have to make it yourself.
Lower grade quality Sanwa parts?
What are those?
You want Black Buttons.
Those do exist.
Sanwa OBSF-30-K is what you want.
The “K” is just Color Code, so find OBSF-30, and choose Black.
Yes, your Sanwa Joystick can have Black Ball Top.
Just find Sanwa LB-35-K.
Ball Tops can be screwed on and off.
When you open your Tournament Edition, you will see slot at end of Shaft.
Use a flathead screwdriver in that slot to hold Shaft in place, then twist Ball Top off.
There does not exist a White Shaft Cover for Sanwa Joystick.
There is not one for Seimitsu Joystick either.
I mentioned Seimitsu because their LS-40(-01) have colored Shaft Covers.
And those can be modified to fit on Sanwa JLF.