so it’s (ls32 it’s fine to me too) not stiff like the JLW? 
uhmm
The Ls-32 is not as stiff as a JLW but a bit stiffer than a JLF
well… what about this (the stick is a sanwa imitation which is not as stiff as my jlw… i love the stiffness of the jlw though):
[media=youtube]8eQO605IKfs[/media]
the LS32 is stiffer than that? if yes i can give it a try 
and can u give me the exact size of the stick without the balltop? (i mean height of the stick)
LS32 is abit stiffer than a JLF. But compared to a ls56 or jlw, its very loose. lol When i play for hours on the ls56 and decide to switch to one of my sticks with a ls32, it feels like im playing with a jlf. lol
If you like the JLW, i think you should try the ls56. Small throw, stiff spring and alot easier to play on than the jlw. Plus i heard JLW’s dont age very well. I had one for afew months, I liked it, but LS56 FTW!
woah i looked on youtube and the LS56 seems as stiff as i like it, at least through video it recalls the jlw feeling…can you tell me the height of the stick without balltop (just the | ) ? thank you!!
i believe its like 1mm shorter than the jlf shaft when mounted. Check on slagcoin.com to make sure. Im on a shitty wireless connection right now. lol
Question: if I wanted to change the buttons on the TE Stick to Seimitsu PS-14-KN 30mm Pushbuttons, would they even fit? i noticed that these are threaded on the sides and don’t know if that would make a difference…
Fit.
^thx
i’m assuming it doesn’t matter if i mix in snap-ins/screw ins either
No matter.
thank you good sir for making my day
ok thx!
Alright I’m here to report back because I got my OBS-M-1 microswitches. I really like them a lot. I used to use iL (Cherries) and couldn’t get used to the soft Sanwa microswitches in my TE. While the OBS-M-1 switches do NOT resemble Cherries in feel they are really nice a stiff. I do not know what the RG switches feel like but hopefully my description (following paragraph) will be helpful.
This is the way they feel to me 
iL buttons (Cherries)
- In between OBS-M-1 and TE buttons in stiffness*
- Has a “deadzone” where you can press it part way without it engaging**
- Sounds and feels really clicky (about equal to or more than the JLW/JLF joysticks)
OBSF-30 (Stock TE buttons, Sanwa)
- Super soft takes almost no pressure to activate*
- Reacts pretty much as soon as you touch it (no “deadzone”)
- No click action
OBS-M-1 (Sanwa joystick switches)
- Crazy stiff, the microswitch alone is stiffer than my iL buttons (even the ones with double springs)*
- No deadzone, once you press it hard enough to move it then it will engage immediately**
- Not really that clicky, in between the OBSF-30 and the Cherries but more towards the OBSF-30’s side
*By stiffness of the switches/buttons I meant how much force it feels like it needs to engage and how hard it pushes back against your finger once it is engaged.
**Kowal mentions a few posts below what the deadzone distances actually are. Just remember that my description above is only how they feel to me.
And as for the fit in the TE it’s really tight. I could put the top on but it didn’t go all the way down, you can put screws but it was bent a little. The black plastic in the middle is really soft and you can cut it with decent wire cutters (the ones that are shaped like pliers but have cutters, not the combination pliers/cutters). Also don’t forget that they take 187 quick disconnects so the normal ones will be too small. I didn’t take the QDs off I just soldered them directly to the switches, a bit ghetto and takes quite a bit of heat but it works.
Feel free to ask questions if you have any.
Thank you for your write.
ahh crap that sucks. I guess I won’t be getting those unless I’m feeling like rewiring my TE.
Thanks for the info.
One question I do have though, do you use the red bezel on your TE? if so did you have to cut the top of the microswitches for it to go on? I ask because I use a custom plexi without the bezel so my control panel sits a little bit lower then it would with the bezel on.
all arcade micro have deathzone
no death zone = dip switches:rofl:
OBSF30/PSL-L
1mm/1,5mm
omron V / cherry KWJ
1,5mm / 1-1,2mm
Updated my post so that people don’t get misinformation from me.
Yeah I use the red bezel on my TE. I don’t know if you can cut the microswitches but I didn’t modify them. It barely fit in my TE and made the top cover flex. They are not really that deep but the problem with the TE is the black plastic piece that sits in the center of the stick. I don’t know what it’s for but it’s made of soft plastic and it’s easy to cut so I just cut the center portion out. I’ll take some pics of the inside of my stick tonight so you can get an idea of how deep the switches sit.
Update
So none of my pictures came out showing the depth properly. If you are familiar with the shaped of these microswitches (same as Cherries/Sanwa’s in the JLF/JLW) then you know that the common is protruding from the top of the microswitch. It looks to me that without that metal piece the switch would fit but your need that since it’s the common. Plus if you leave a little bit and solder a wire on I don’t know if it will fit.
I still say the best bet would be cutting the center of the black plastic.
Ahhh I thought you were refering to the microswitch when you were talking about cutting. Ok now i get your idea now, you cut the plastic thats in between the top and bottom panels of the stick. Basically the black plastic that the PCB sits on top of.
Gotcha.
1 question though, did you buy the microswitches and put them into a normal OSBF-30 or did you buy the buttons + microswitches together? Reason I ask is because I’m looking to use those microswitches on my Dark-Hai OSBF-30s and they don’t make Dark-Hai or Black ones like that.
Thanks for the info!
Yeah I cut the black plastic that holds the Madcatz PCB (just the center where there are already holes). I did not cut the plastic on the switches.
I bought only the microswitches and put them into the OBSF-30s. They pop right in from the bottom of the button.
just another quick question…since the LS56 (Length of shaft (up to bottom side of ball): 32 mm (1.26 inch)) is not tall enough… what about the LS55 (no -01)? is pretty stiff that one? I read that the length of shaft is 33.5 mm (1.32 inch), which is pretty good to me… but it’s stiff ? and one more thing…is that possible to put QD on it right? or i should sold the wires?