Who knows? Manufacturing problems, lack of demand?
Most of the Seimitsu product line is as good as the Sanwa stuff, IMHO.
if there’s one thing they have problems with it seems to be consistency in the colors of their bubble ball handles.
They really don’t have a consistently clear/white bubble ball handle on sale now. They really need to clean their plastic injection equipment between rounds because the clear bubbles come off with a purple tint. It’s real obvious the equipment isn’t being cleaned out well between different plastic/color additive injection production lots…
Can’t say why they continue to do some buttons as screw-ins instead of plug-ins. Anything I’d have to say on that would be pure conjecture.
People have experienced problems with Seimitsu plug-ins not being molded well in the past. There have been reports of the buttons being too thick at the button and requiring shaving to fit 30mm holes.
Plenty of people here still like the product, though. The transparent buttons are very popular for light-up button projects as well as more intricate integrated art designs.
I have a question. Most of the sticks I’m modding will end up with Seimitsu (cause I love clears). I read that Sanwas are slightly more sensitive than Seimitsu. Will there be any change in play for me if I were to go with Seimitsus? Like, will the timing on my combos change, etc.? I know stupid question, but I gotta know ._.
Depends on your plays style, most people slam on the buttons pretty hard or at least with the good vigor. I can switch between Happ and Sanwa just fine, so Seimitsu and Sanwa shouldn’t be a tremendous difference.
How ever if you’re use to pianoing or plinking there could be a very subtle timing difference, but nothing you wouldnt be able to adjust to quickly.
What is it that makes Sanwa buttons more sensitive then Seimitsu buttons? Is it the microswitch or something else? Sanwa buttons are just too sensitive for me, but they have the Dark Hai buttons colors that I like. Seimitsus are perfect for me, but they do not have the color scheme I would like to use in my stick. Can I replace something in the Sanwa button with whatever is in the Seimitsu button so that I can have the Sanwa button to be less sensitive like the Seimitsu?
I got myself a TE a week back and for some reason the JLF bugs the crap outta me. The stick just isnt as firm or responsive as a LS-32. I’ve considered either cherry mod with a stronger spring or just plain LS-32 if i were to go as far as order parts.
You can replace the microswitch in all Sanwa buttons with Seimitsu’s PS-14D microswitches. These are the microswitches found in their PS-14-D/DN buttons, their PS-14-P buttons, their old PS-14-K buttons, and their thin PS-15 buttons. I’ve done this myself and it’s a perfect fit. When I tried this, I found that it wasn’t a significant difference in performance or tension, but hey, I didn’t actually use my Sanwa buttons to play (I’m a PS-14-G man myself), only to mess around with.
i’m a stick builder and i have a few questions when comparing the seimitsu sticks and the sanwa sticks. i currently own 3 jlfs, one ls-56 and one jlw-tm (haven’t tried out yet). compared to the ls-56, the jlf have a large throw and very loose tension
which seimitsu stick is the most similar to the sanwa jlf in terms of throw distance and stiffness? from what i read, the ls-33 and ls-55 is very similar to the jlf
which seimitsu stick is the most like the jlw? i haven’t got a chance to try out the jlw yet, but the spring is definitely stiffer than the jlf, maybe as stiff as the ls-56.
which stick has the smallest throw of them all? how bout the largest throw?
If you dislike the responsiveness of a JLF, I cannot recommend switching to Cherry microswitches. Part of the design of the JLF is the use of the harder Omron switches which compensate for the loose spring by pushing the actuator back to center as the switch disengages, and the microswitch on the other side is hard enough to keep the stick from overshooting and deflecting to the other direction. Using the soft Cherry switches (KWJ or equivalent) loses this dynamic and a stronger spring will make deflection even worse. On a TE, you’d also have to cut up the wiring harness or make your own to use Cherrys.
If you’re accustomed to and like the LS-32, just order that (the LS-32-01 is a drop-in replacement on the SE/TE as you likely know). I do feel the LS-32 sits slightly short on the TE and is quite loud in that case though.
Hey y’all, I have an arcade machine with a metal control panel, and I would like to put Sanwa parts in it, in place of the existing Happ parts.
A few questions:
So apparently, JLW sticks mount directly into a metal control panel with a HAPP joystick mount. Thing is, I’d rather fit JLFs in my cabinet. I’m thinking I would order two JLFs, and two JLW mounting plates, remove the JLF plates, and put the JLW plates on them. Will this work, or does the JLW plate not fit into the 4 screw holes around the JLF?
I borrowed some MadCatz buttons from a SE stick that my friend modded with Sanwa parts, to test the buttons’ fitment in my control panel. They actually fit (although they don’t actually snap in since the total thickness is probably about 5mm), but I think the little exposed clip about halfway down on either side catches on the sides of the holes in my control panel, because the button won’t pop up.
This is the part that I think is getting stuck:
And this is the result (my pic):
Since the buttons wouldn’t snap in, it’s wise to say I’ll get screw-in buttons instead. This could kill two birds with one stone, since I read on Slagcoin that the diameter of the OSBN-30 is slightly smaller than the OSBF-30 (which the MadCatz buttons are a clone of).
Slagcoin says OSBF-30’s use a hole 30.3mm in size, and the OSBN-30’s use a hole 29.5 mm in size, so assuming the holes in my control panel are 30.3mm, the OSBN-30’s would have an extra .8mm of wiggle room inside my control panel’s button holes. Do you guys think that’s enough extra space to have that part not get stuck? If not, I can just get a semicircular file and widen the holes in my control panel, but I’d like to avoid doing so if possible.
Im pretty sure the JLW and JLF mounting plates arent interchangeable. Youll be fine with screw in buttons. Care to take a pic of the mounting area on your cab.
If you look at position of the nuts and bolts around the JLF, that’s what my mounting area is like. It’s a different cabinet from his but the holes are in the same spots and spaced apart the same.
I dont know, looks ghetto, the guy that did that mod refers to the JLF and JLW as LJF and LJW. lol sounds like he jumped on on the bandwagon without knowing anything about it. How thick is your control panel? Dont forget once mounted the shaft needs to stick out 23-24mm from the base of the cp to the beginning of the ball threads. I guess drilling into your cp isnt an option?
JLW is ok for some marvel or even some tekken. But overall, i dont like the feel of it, plus Kayin is right. They dont age very well. The only reason i had a jlw is so i could get a really good feel for it. After afew months, i decided to just swap it for an LS32.
If you dont wanna drill maybe you could find someone that can work with metal. It shouldnt be too hard to add “wings” to the bracket so it reaches out to the 4 bolts. Its a possibility
Edit- One other thing, wheres the brackets from the original sticks that are currently installed? Are they flat? If so you could always perfectly center the JLF bracket on the original bracket and Weld or JBweld it on. its a quick idea i had. Could use a the jlw bracket as a base too i suppose.
