For the 30mm Seimitsu Screw-in Buttons, there are only two kinds available.
PS-14-GN and PS-14-GN(???) (not include PS-14-KN since you not talking about those).
People type PS-14-GNC, with the C meaning Clear.
But Clear does not mean the whole Button, otherwise they would be PS-14-KN.
The C being Clear for the Plunger.
People type PS-14-GN-CP, with the CP meaning Clear Plunger.
So I think you know that too.
People typing PS-14-GNC and PS-14-GN-CP are meaning PS-14-GN(???).
So yes, both those you type are the same Buttons.
But for your question, I cannot answer.
Sorry for that.
Im confused about the max thickness for installing the Seimitsu PS-14-KN buttons. On starcab it says its screw-in and must be used for 4-7mm metal control panels? but on coinslags diagram it says max thickness for mounting is 13.5mm?
which is right? I want to install these on dounble lexan with artwork in between totalling 11mm.
sp3ctr3, for screw-in buttons (which are what the PS-14-KN buttons are) I donāt believe it really matters how thick the panel youāre using is. By nature of the fact that theyāre screw-in buttons, theyāre gonna be held in place by friction anyway so panel thickness shouldnāt be a factor to this considering all screw-in buttons have the screw-in thread running all the way to the base of the button. Of course, you obviously shouldnāt be UNREASONABLE, i.e. donāt make your panel thicker than your button. And I think those specs you listed only apply to snap-in buttons.
By the way, itās slagcoin, not coinslag.
EDIT: I donāt want to double post so Iāll ask here. And speaking of slagcoinā¦
I noticed that slagcoin said on his site, specifically this page about the different attributes of joysticks and buttons and even more specifically the section where he goes over what joystick components can be swapped around he says about swapping the LS-40 shaft assembly into an LS-32:
āLS-40 shaft (with spring holder, actuator, and shaft covers; cannot pivot to touch the square gate)ā
Does that mean that if I were to switch my LS-32 shaft with an LS-40 shaft, itād fix the pivoting problems the LS-32 has with its spring?
So is the throw on the Seimitsu LS stick noticibly different in Third Strike? Basically, will it help out with all those really hard karas you can do?:lol:
animate, I wouldnāt know about that. Kara-cancels typically involve buttons, not joystick inputs. But since you brought it up, the original Street Fighter III 3rd Strike cabinets did in fact use Seimitsu LS-32 joysticks and I believe PS-15 buttons.
Right. I shouldāve mentioned that I read that over in the HRAP2 modding FAQ. Iām really looking for someone who has played on both to give me a recommendation. I know Seimitsu is used in the cabs (or was originally) but Iām sure the Sanwa has benefits, too. (Though I guess I could just order one and sit on it if I donāt like it as much as the Sanwa). But, like you said, buttons are also a factor. It just seems that I can get more kara cancels, etc. when Iām on a Perfect 360 stick, which makes less sense considering you can feel your down-forward better with a square restrictor.
Animate- Ive owned an LS32, and i own afew JLF sticks. After installing a LS32 into a t5 case for a customer, i remember why i had an LS32 in my first custom stick years ago. It feel so much better IMO. Its like night and day for me. some people might not feel the difference. ITs all about preference.
I think the LS32 is better than the JLF for 2D fighters in general.
JMD714 i want to fit a ls-56 inside my rhap currently i have a LS-32 in there which mounting plate should i get for the LS-56 to fit inside it and where can i buy it really would appriciate your help here
I used to use namco/sc2/ sanwa sticks for playing xvsf and mvc i used these sticks for agess about 7months ago i bought a rhap with LS-32 inside it , been using it all this time went back to sanwa / namco the other day and wow i noticed the difference straight away the distance seemed alot bigger . I have no problem using sanwa/namco but seimitsu feels so much more comfortable and easy.
Thinking of getting an LS-33, but I prefer when sticks have pcb to those nice cables on instead of bare switches. Any easy way of putting a pcb on the LS-33? I assume not
You just unscrew the yellow Sub Guide and white Square Main Guide of LS-55-01, then remove PCB.
Seimitsu LS-56-01 does not have Sub Guide, so just unscrew the white Square Main Guide and remove PCB.
Or just buy the PCB from LS-55-01, LS-56-01 by itself.
Thing is that if you buy the āSubstrateā, it will not come with Microswitch.
So you would need to buy the Microswitches too, and solder them onto the PCB.
Then unscrew yellow Sub Guide and white Square Main Guide on LS-33 and take off the four Levered Microswitches.
Put in the āLS-33ā PCB, and screw back on the the white Square Main Guide and yellow Sub Guide.
hey guys. made a trade, my JLW for LS32. I disassembled the stick to ship it in a small box. And the guys isnt too sure how to put it back together.
Anyone know where a diagram of the Sanwa JLW is?
thanks
Not sure if this should go in the sf4 te thread or here but seeing as it is using sanwa i would think you guys might know better.
The stick has the Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK-W arcade stick and i am not sure if it is supposed to do this or if this is an issue. When i do any of the up motions (7, 8, or 9) i feel a resistance like half the time. It feels almost like it is getting caught on something. I have always used hori or happ parts so i am unfamiliar with how this stuff works.
I have not opened the stick yet. It actually came in the mail today from amazon. I havent read anything about people having this issue with the te stick.
does anyone know the demension of the seimitsu LS 33 spring because iwant just the spring but dont want to order it from lizardlick and wait 3 weeks for a 97 cent part. when i can go to home depot and try to find a similar spring
