I’m trying to get together plans for my own custom stick, but I wanted to get together the case before the parts arrive, as with all of the rush, I’ve got a while to wait before I get my JLF and the Sei buttons I want aren’t even in stock in any place I have found that carries them.
By any means, these links are both 404 now, and I need the measurements of the JLF stick so I can figure out the depth needed to be dug out of MDF to have clearance for the mounting bracket, and the base of the stick. Also figuring out how thick the plexi glass can be.
E: Found a measurement breakdown on ModChipMan for those looking for one, I think it was from Akihabara originally? By any means, it answered my question: http://xs138.xs.to/xs138/09152/a380.jpg.xs.jpg
I have 2 questions regarding Sanwa/Seimitsu parts I just purchased:
1) I bought a JLF-TP-8T because it was the only version of the JLF that I could find anywhere. Unfortunately, it didn’t come with a mounting bracket. It doesn’t matter to me all that much how the stick is mounted so long as it functions properly, doesn’t look ridiculous, and preferably doesn’t require a router to mount.
I apologize if this question is stupid, but is it possible to mount the stick without a bracket? If not, is there somewhere that sells the bracket alone, or would a hardware store have something that would fit the bill? I’m worried that I went through all this trouble to obtain the stick from Australia when it’s out of stock everywhere and now I won’t be able to mount it without an equally rare part.
2) I purchased Seimitsu PS-14-KN clear white buttons and plan on doing the LED light-on-activation mod. Should I drill a hole in the button plastic to insert the LEDs? If so, what size bit, and precisely where on the button do I want to drill? Alternatively, is it possible to just tape the LED to the side of the button, or insert it in the little hole where the plunger detaches from the base? I’d prefer a non-drilling method all other things being equal if it will prevent me from destroying a button.
domino82, did you really buy JLF-TP-8T?
Because the “T” means the JLF comes with a Mounting Plate.
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P1-S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).
Or maybe you did mean Mounting Bracket?
As in the bracket the plate mounts onto?
For your LED thing:
The hole size you will be drilling depends on size of LED.
You are either going to use a 3mm or 5mm LED.
So 3mm or 5mm you will be drilling on the bottom next to Microswitch of Button.
You can also insert the LED inside the button.
Just remove the Plunger like you said.
Thread the wires from LED through the holes on side of Button.
I ask because I could have sworn that when I used the SE madcatz joystick that the stick is sturdy, and does not rotate in its own base…
The sanwa joystick rotating its its own base kind of bugs me as I would sometimes slip up doing a dp motion because my hands would do the motion, but instead of registering into the switches, it would register just in the shaft (which is rotating…).
According to Slagcoin’s site, the LS-55 has the longest throw and engage distance of all the Japanese joysticks. Is this true? I currently use a JLF inside my HRAP3 and I find the engage distance to be too short for my liking. I’d like one with a slightly longer throw and an engage distance that’s almost at the gate.
The chart I see on slagcoin.com says both the JLF and LS-55 have ‘far’ engage distance. I don’t know of any sticks with further engagement points. You could try shaving down the actuator I suppose.
No… it’ll fit in the Sanwa RGs and long-switch Seimitsu buttons. The RG switches are too large to fit into a standard OSBN/OSBF-30.
I read that but I have a hard time believing it. The engage on the JLF looks like it’s only 2-3mm from neutral. It feels like it engages at about half the throw distance. That qualifies as “far”? If so, I’d hate to see the LS-32.
The measurable differences in engage distance between stick models seem to be pretty slim, although they can change the feel and playability by quite a lot. I have an LS-56 and the engage distance feels very short to me compared to a JLF or LS-32. It is listed as ‘medium’ in slagcoin’s chart. I’ve yet to try an LS-40, which is supposed to be shorter.
Regarding the LS-32, or at least my LS-32 (only have one, never used another)… I haven’t actually measured it, but by feel the engagement doesn’t seem much different to me than the JLF. They both seem to have a sizable deadzone that feels similar in circumference, though the JLF feels more secured in its deadzone, while the LS-32 feels loose until you’re pushing into the levers. This looseness of the LS-32 makes the deadzone actually feel larger to me. The LS-32 definitely has a noticeably shorter throw though.
I’ve heard that you can’t put your fingers over sanwa buttons but can with seimitsus. Is this true?
Laugh’s remarks on the Korean parts in addition to fixt00l’s made me look at them. How do the buttons and sticks feel? I generally want something durable and fairly responsive. How does the rubber padding compare in durability to the springs in Happ/Sanwa/Seimitsu?
How hard would it be installing a new wiring harness in my SE stick?..Madcatz got glue happy and I used a little too much elbow grease and the wires are loose at the end that connects to the board. Any help would be appreciated. Can the wires just be secured with tape so they wont come out the other end?
This thread should be stickied if its not already.
I couldn’t read through all the pages of this thread, but I was wondering what are the pros/cons of 2-way, 4-way, and 8-way?
Reading about the Sanwa and Semeitsu sticks, I’d think i’d prefer the LS-32. I have the madcatz SE and I’d prefer if there was more resistance when executing moves.
2-Way only moves LEFT and RIGHT, or UP and DOWN.
Games like Space Invaders, Galaga and Galaxian use control only moving left and right.
4-Way moves UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT, or UP-LEFT, UP-RIGHT, DOWN-LEFT, DOWN-RIGHT.
Games like Pac-Man, Donkey Kong, Frogger; going up and left and right and down.
8-Way moves both ways of a 4-Way, so eight directions.
UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT, UP-LEFT, UP-RIGHT, DOWN-LEFT, DOWN-RIGHT.
Michael Jackson’s Moonwalker, Metal Slug, some Shmups, Street Fighter; 8-Way.
I don’t really know how to Pro/Con between 2-4-8-Way.
They are so different to each other.
Something else to say.
A lot of people confuse and get wrong about Square and Octagonal Restricters.
Square has four sides, and Octagon has eight sides.
So Square would be 4-Way, and Octagon would be 8-Way, right?
WRONG!
The Sanwa JLF comes stock with Square Restrictor.
The Square is an 8-Way, so is the Octagonal Restrictor.
Both go UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT, UP-LEFT, UP-RIGHT, DOWN-LEFT, DOWN-RIGHT.
But the Square can also be turned into a 4-Way.
This goes only UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT.
If look close at the stock Restrictor, you will see that it is made of two parts.
Outer ring clips onto the joystick, inner is the actual restricting part.
Rotating the Inner Ring clockwise will turn the 8-way into 4-way.
Do it by pushing the Inner Ring with pegs facing towards you, then turn.
