The Sanwa and Seimitsu FAQ

@VPT- I’m not sure what you’re saying, but all Sanwa buttons are very much the same. Sanwa is known for their quality so it’s not likely that one set of buttons was “softer” than another. The only differences in your case are the PCB’s and wiring. I don’t know much about modding the EX, but it uses a soldered PCB rather than QD’s. On top of that, the EX stick might have thrown off your timing. Perhaps you can elaborate.

@jeenyus1- If both sticks used Sanwas then there should be no difference in mechanics. UNLESS one of the stick’s buttons were used a lot more than the other. Over time with use, Sanwa buttons get more ‘loose’ after 1000’s of presses

Facts are facts. Sanwas are Sanwas. I know this. That’s why I’m having a hard time explaining what happened and more than likely I’ll just keep getting comments like these. I laughed every time my brother would say the HRAP EX was just not feeling right. I told him it was the same buttons and stick but he kept whining and that’s why i switched sticks in the middle of play. No way to tell you guys other than to just say the Sanwas on my HRAP EX have slightly more friction when pushing them down than the sanwas in my TE stick. I was not able to pull off moves with the same ease as I did with the TE when i switched. So, what I’m asking to anybody who might possess the knowledge, could the PCB and the actual wires used cause delay of button function or any other such inferiority? It’s not the layout because I’m used to both but it really just bothers me that i spent probably more than the TE stick modding this HRAP and it still is an inferior stick.

What size are the 4 screws that hold the mounting plate to the black plastic thing that is surrounding the shaft. Sorry if im vague, i dont know what to name that part.

Also, the size of the nuts that hold them would be great too.

for jlf it’s m3 (metric, don’t know if they’re called differently in the US) nuts n screws/

“Button installation:
24mm (OBSF-24/OBSN-24 and PS-14-D/PS-14-DN) and 30mm (OBSF-30/OBSN-30 and PS-14-G/PS-14-GN) buttons from Sanwa and Seimitsu refer to the diameter of the holes that they will fit into. Snap-in buttons from both companies grip to 2-4mm material thicknesses while screw-ins from both companies hold on to upwards of 8mm.”

If I am reading this correct, Sanwa does not make a screw in button that will work with a half inch thick panel… doh! Does that really mean I’m stuck with Happ?

You can use a router to thin out the section you need. There is a tutorial on how to do this on Slagcoin.

OK, I am going to use American parts. :rock: They are cheaper, easier to use, easier to get a hold of and I do like the way they play. I just feel like not using Sanwa parts devalues the stick a bit.:karate:

Nothing wrong with American parts. Definitely the easiest way to go and cheapest. You’re going to be best on what you are most used to anyway. I have a friend that refuses to go with anything but Happ concave buttons just because it’s what he’s used to.

I have a JLF and a LS-32 on my sticks and I just wanna is there a big difference when you change to the octogonal gate, Is it easier to do moves, dash, crouch block, etc. I’m having a little hard time with the square gates on my stick since I’m used to the happ circular motion.

It’s definitely a different feel. But moves such as dashing don’t change much since the horizontal throw is probably the same. In other words, the spring doesn’t become any tighter. As for the crouch block, obviously that changes a bit since the throw for diagonals is smaller than with a square gate. But overall there really is no right answer to your question. Some people think it’s easier than square gate, others think it’s harder. It’s not going to be an overnight shift in your ability to use Japanese sticks. Both take getting used to, but with varying degrees of difficulty depending on the player.

For me personally, I tried the octagonal but decided the square was better. The main thing I learned is that you don’t always have to touch the edges. You can do a full 360 motion with minimal contact with the edges. Think of it like you’re making a small circle inside the square rather than tracing out a diamond.

Thanks for the info. That is what I’m trying to get used to, trying not to touch the edges of the square gate as appoused to using a square guide to make circles. I noticed that when I did this my moves were more fluid and precise but man does it take some getting used to cause in the heat of battle I see myself using the square gate. I guess your right I just need to practice and get used to it. Thanks again, Now time to start training, LOL.

I just ordered a Seimitsu LS 32. I was wondering what was the use of two gates on the LS 32? If I got one circular LS 32 gate, could I take out both of the square gates and just use the circular?

The real question is: Where can we get a Sanwa JLF?

In2Amusements.com.au stock the JLF-TP-8T (I reckon it’s actually the 8Y because it does not come with mounting plate - I just bought one of these too). If you don’t mind the price or shipping from Australia, give them a try. Jason, the guy who runs the shop, is a great guy and is willing to help with whatever you need.

FYI: link to the page - http://www.in2amusements.com.au/shop/index.php/27/237_Sanwa_Joystick__4/8_Way_JLF-TP-8T

EDIT: Also, gamedude stocks JLF-TP-8YT’s that are cheaper! They just got their stock so check it out http://www.gamedude.com.au/arcade/prod_list.php?maingroup=SPARE%20PARTS&secondgroup=JOYSTICKS ; they are also located in Australia too, but I’m not too sure how much it costs to ship out Internationally. But give them a looksee.

The one on the bottom, the **turquoise **one, is your “main guide.” This one is just your basic square gate and should not be removed. The **blue **one on top is the “sub-guide” and is there to alter your direction choice (8-way, 4-way, 2-way). Basically you unscrew the sub-guide and move the hole you want over the square and then re-screw it. Some people remove it altogether if they’re using 8-way.

For a circular gate, yes you’d have to take both of them out since the circular gate has its own main-guide. It also has a sub-guide that you may or may not prefer. It’s just simple unscrewing and re-screwing.

So here’s a question that’s probably been answered: I haven’t tried a Seimitsu, but I’m interested in trying one out in the stick I will soon be building. I am very familiar with the JLF, and my friend’s P360 MAS sticks drive me insane.

The question: I keep reading that Seimitsus have more tension to them than Sanwas, but is it on Happ levels of tension or is it still a relatively muscle-free process to move the thing around?

There is no answer and it’s all a matter of opinion. From my experience, say that a JLF is 0, and a Happ P360 is 10. Then the LS-32 would be around 2 or 3. There are other Seimitsu sticks of greater tension, but I cannot speak for them.

where can i order some osbm-30’s right now
lizard and aki is down
gremlin wants $20 for 4
any suggestions? from the us
thanks

I realize it’s all opinion, but it’s not like you can test these things out at best buy, and with arcades dying out… bleh. So all I have to go on is others’ more experienced opinions. That said… thanks. =)

Either the TE stick uses a modified design of button, or your TE stick simply has more mileage on it. Sanwa buttons noticeably loosen up after a while.