From reading what you typed, I think you are referring to the Pearl Buttons.
Seimitsu PS-14-P.
Thoseâd be the ones.
http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/gremimages/PS-14-P.gif
Are there Balltops to match? Iâd downloaded the Seimitsu catalog but didn;t find anything.
word, THANKS for the info. i went ahead and ordered buttons to be on the safe side, but i might just experiment with the switches so i can keep my wii colored buttons.
Just an observation I noticed while playing around with Sanwa/Hori buttons.
I put a Sanwa microswitch in a Hori buttonâs âshellâ and to depress the button is a lot smoother/easier than a normal Sanwa button. The distance the button has to go down to activate is actually smaller in the Hori shell than the normal Sanwa shell.
Weird but yeahâŚ
Hey you might be onto something, after all the cherry mods and such started somewhere right?
I didnât want to use the standard 8 wire hookup for the ls-32 so I ended up ordering an ls-32-01 pcb and soldered to the microswitches so I could use the 5 pin wiring harness (no compaints yet)
Iâm now 100% sure that a Sanwa microswitch placed inside a Hori button âshellâ (Ex2)
is better than just a Normal Sanwa button. (Like I said before, it depresses quicker, smoother and thereâs less distance from neutral to depressed)
The reason why is in the Hori outer button shell (both top and bottom parts). Thereâs less depth in the inside compared to the Sanwaâs so the switch hits the top âshellâ quicker than on a normal Sanwa. The top part of the shell on a Hori is also a bit longer than a Sanwas so it hits the microswitch faster than a Sanwa. Iâve put all my Sanwa microswitches into Hori shells. (even though I donât like the colours, I went function > form) :chat:
Well, it seems there arenât Pearl finish balltops to go with the PS-14-P Seimitsu buttons. That leaves me contemplating if a black marble contact paper background, White Pearl buttons, and a clear bubble top ball top would look classy or incredibly cheesy. What kinda balltop do people match up with the pearl buttons?
You replaced all your Sanwa Microswitch to Hori?
You replaced all your Hori Microswitch to Sanwa?
You can get Numbski to Custom you a Ball.
He makes really cool Balls.
I placed my Sanwa microswitches into Hori Shells.
Hey I have a problem with my seimitsu clear buttons. They are squeaking. I just got them a few days ago. Is it a normal thing, do they have to break in or something?
Or should I fix it somehow? thanks.
Whatâs the official consensus on the LS-32-01 and its âsub-guideâ (dark-blue restrictor)? Does it need to be on for fighting games even though the âmain-guideâ (turquoise restrictor) is already square? As far as I can tell, most people keep it on. But I came across a few instances of people *not *keeping it on. I noticed that the stick is almost as loose as a JLF when without the sub-guide.
I took it off. No need for it to be on.
Thatâs what I figured. But some people still leave it on. Iâm wondering if they do it willingly or out of ignorance. After all, Seimitsu provides it as a standard feature.
**EDIT: **What I mean is that having the sub-guide on is not exactly the same as having it off. Parts of the sub-guide *slightly overlap *the exposed square of the main-guide. So you have two different variations of the same stick. This could all be in my head, though.
Well, my friend doesnât seem to mind, and hasnât had any issues.
Wow, omfg x 200mln, yesterday, for the first time in my life, I played and finished with one credit SF IV.I dont know what stick was it, the buttons looked like Seimitsu ones, but the stick was a bit stiffer than the stock HRAP3 Sanwa and LS-32, and I think it was circular, no 4 or 8 way control.I would swear it was a Sanwa JLW + round gate.The arcade machine was brand new, with Capcom logos all over, any suggestions what the stick might be?
Quick question:
How do I know which terminal is ground on a Sanwa button? Doest it even matter? Been searching the forum for a while and I canât find this information and Iâd rather get an answer than go to town on my PCB before knowing this.
It doesnât matter, you can use either.
Has anyone who owns a MC TE stick and a HRAP EX or HRAP 3 and modded the HRAP with Sanwa buttons noticed that the buttons still donât feel as soft as the TE? I didnât notice until yesterday when my bro was over and complaining that he was losing because I was using the TE and he was using the HRAP EX (he owns a TE as well). When I finished pummeling him 20-0 I switched sticks and told him to stop whining like a bitch after I beat him with the HRAP EX. I was very surprised to find and probably wouldnât have noticed if I hadnât switched sticks so quickly. The HRAP EX modded with Sanwas was just not as responsive. Akumaâs air fireballs were just plain harder to pull off and shoryukenâs were not pulling out as smooth. Really dissapointing.
It was most likely a Korean Crown stick/button setup. A lot of importers went with the Korean SFIV cabinet because it was cheaper. And Korean sticks always use circular restrictor gates, regardless of bat-top or ball-top.
Sanwa JLWâs are rarely seen in the wild, and probably never used for fighting games.
Iâm not sure what youâre saying, but all Sanwa buttons are very much the same. Sanwa is known for their quality so itâs not likely that one set of buttons was âsofterâ than another. The only differences in your case are the PCBâs and wiring. I donât know much about modding the EX, but it uses a soldered PCB rather than QDâs. On top of that, the *EX stick *might have thrown off your timing. Perhaps you can elaborate.
If both sticks used Sanwas then there should be no difference in mechanics. UNLESS one of the stickâs buttons were used a lot more than the other. Over time with use, Sanwa buttons get more âlooseâ after 1000âs of presses