The Sanwa and Seimitsu FAQ

[Twinniss]

btw does mounting height concern all japanese joysticks or does this only concern the ls-32/jlf

I have a ls-56(shaft length from base to bottom of balltop is longer than a ls-32)

[System_1]

Thanks. I have a question regarding the Sanwa OBSN-30. On slagcoin it shows that the hole has an indentation of sorts for the wood. Is that necessary that the wood has the indentation, or can I just drill a hole using a forstner bit?

Example: http://slagcoin.com/joystick/example2/back2.jpg

I don’t think I need to do this for the Happ competition buttons.

[lloop9]

LS-32 jumping spring?

Hi guys, I have a question regarding the LS-32.

I heard that the spring will “jump” when the stick is pushed hard into the corner, is this because of the dark blue gate in place? Will removing the dark blue gate alleviate the spring jumping problem?

Thanks for taking time to response :lovin:

[System_1]

btw does mounting height concern all japanese joysticks or does this only concern the ls-32/jlf

I have a ls-56(shaft length from base to bottom of balltop is longer than a ls-32)

All sticks.

You just want to make sure the shaft is exposed about 23-24mm. So depending on your top panel thickness (including plexi if you’re using it), make the right measurements so that the shaft length from base to the bottom of the balltop minus the total control panel thickness leaves 23-24mm.

Hi guys, I have a question regarding the LS-32.

I heard that the spring will “jump” when the stick is pushed hard into the corner, is this because of the dark blue gate in place? Will removing the dark blue gate alleviate the spring jumping problem?

Thanks for taking time to response :lovin:

I’ve not felt this jump but the stick definately feels better without the dark blue gate - it kinda gets in the way.

[Paik4Life]

Thanks. I have a question regarding the Sanwa OBSN-30. On slagcoin it shows that the hole has an indentation of sorts for the wood. Is that necessary that the wood has the indentation, or can I just drill a hole using a forstner bit?

Example: http://slagcoin.com/joystick/example2/back2.jpg

I don’t think I need to do this for the Happ competition buttons.

This is not necessary. Slagcoin was probably just demonstrating how a lot of people do it to imbed the buttons so they aren’t easy to push. People use this technique to prevent accidental pushes from the start/home/xbox buttons. I haven’t seen anyone do this on the standard buttons because it would just make them more difficult to push.

Hi guys, I have a question regarding the LS-32.

I heard that the spring will “jump” when the stick is pushed hard into the corner, is this because of the dark blue gate in place? Will removing the dark blue gate alleviate the spring jumping problem?

Thanks for taking time to response :lovin:

When people apply great amount of unnecessary force to any direction, it forces the actuator out of it’s intended course. That’s where you feel the jump. If you’re ever experiencing this, that means you’re applying way more force than necessary (e.g. you’re a scrub hahaha). The dark blue gate is not necessary for the operation of standard 8-way operation. A lot of times you’ll find that your joystick doesn’t even hit the dark blue gate in the default setting. The dark gate is really only useful for the 2-way and 4-way operation. So yes, it’s okay to take it off for standard 8-way operation.

~Paik

[System_1]

This is not necessary. Slagcoin was probably just demonstrating how a lot of people do it to imbed the buttons so they aren’t easy to push. People use this technique to prevent accidental pushes from the start/home/xbox buttons. I haven’t seen anyone do this on the standard buttons because it would just make them more difficult to push.

By standard buttons, do you mean the Sanwa OBSF-30?

Thanks once again!

[System_1]

By standard buttons, do you mean the Sanwa OBSF-30?

Thanks once again!

Yes the 6 face buttons you use during gameplay.

[System_1]

Ok, I took a look at the first page and it pretty much says that the joystick should be top mounted and the wood has to have an indentation the size of the mounting panel…problem is, like I mentioned above, I don’t have a router.

Can I just screw the mounting plate to the bottom of a 1/4" thick piece of wood? I only have to cut a 24 mm hole then for the shaft to go through.

Kinda like: http://slagcoin.com/joystick/mounting_layering/s_bottom_double_sawed.png except with a regular mounting plate.

Thanks once again for all your help. And once again, sorry for the stupid/nooby questions, it’s my first time creating a joystick controller.

[Paik4Life]

It’s recommended that you top mount, but yeah you can bottom mount. The issue is that to get the shaft at the correct length, you have to use pretty thing material making it more likely to have flexing and overall weak top panel.

If you don’t have the tools to route then you have to make due with what you have. Just make sure to get a sturdy material for your top panel since 1/4" inch is not very thick. For example, I wouldn’ use plywood or MDF at that thickness. Use some hardwoods or metal instead.

~Paik

[Illustrator76]

Wow I was just trying to mod my LS-32 today and wanted to ask this question. While I don’t mind keeping at it, I don’t know what the proper method is. I tried to put a flat-head screwdriver (of varying sizes) inside the place the where the ring is open, but I couldn’t do anything. Then I tried to pry it open from the small gap under the ring but I couldn’t do anything. Is there a special tool or something?

You can buy a pair of circlip pliers like the one’s found here: http://cgi.ebay.com/DOUBLE-HEAD-SNAP-RETAINING-RING-CIRCLIP-PLIERS-CLIP-KIT_W0QQitemZ290295663356QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Hand_Tools?hash=item290295663356&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50 these will get that LS-32 spring off without you killing yourself in the process.

[DarkHadou88]

is this Seimitsu PS-14-KN 30mm Pushbutton with Vertical Microswitch jus as good as the sanwa in the TE stick??? and will it fit??? im planning on gettin those buttons to match my theme and a Seimitsu LB-39 Clear Joystick Ball Top but keeping my sanwa stick the come with the TE jus changeing the ball.

[System_1]

Quick question: Where can I find out which sticks have 5-pin connectors that work with the Fightsticke SE?

I’m interested in the Sanwa JLW-UM for my SE because I like bat tops but also like loose sticks, and if I’m going to buy an octogonal restrictor for this POS stock stick I might as well get a whole new stick.

I’m sure there’s plenty of room for the actual stick in there, I just want to make sure it will work with the sodderless connections the SE has.

[System_1]

Thanks for your help Paik. I think I am going to try to get a router bit for my dremel along with a mount/stand so I can use that to route. Furthermore, I will get a 1/2" top panel and make a 1/4" indentation instead, giving me that 23-24 mm that I am aiming for.

[Paik4Life]

is this Seimitsu PS-14-KN 30mm Pushbutton with Vertical Microswitch jus as good as the sanwa in the TE stick??? and will it fit??? im planning on gettin those buttons to match my theme and a Seimitsu LB-39 Clear Joystick Ball Top but keeping my sanwa stick the come with the TE jus changeing the ball.

Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons are both very good. It’s subjective as to which one is better. All 30mm buttons (Japanese standard) will fit in the TE technically, but the PS-14-KN are the screw in type. Check this video for specifics about modding the TE with screw-in buttons

ShinJN’s Workshop: SF4 Tournament Edition Stick Modding!

Video 5 to be precise.

Quick question: Where can I find out which sticks have 5-pin connectors that work with the Fightsticke SE?

I’m interested in the Sanwa JLW-UM for my SE because I like bat tops but also like loose sticks, and if I’m going to buy an octogonal restrictor for this POS stock stick I might as well get a whole new stick.

I’m sure there’s plenty of room for the actual stick in there, I just want to make sure it will work with the sodderless connections the SE has.

Any of the 5pin joysticks will work with the stock connector in the joysticks. That being said, not all of them are able to fit into the TE/SE without modification.

If you want a battop, you don’t have to get a JLW. Just buy the Sanwa battop accessory (make sure to get the adapter too) and you can put that onto any Sanwa or Seimitsu joystick.

~Paik

[CoLoNeL]

Excuse my noobness but are there any japanese balltype sticks that is optical/p360 (no microswitches)?

[Paik4Life]

The Sanwa Flash which was discontinued years ago and now go for well over $100 even for a used one. ASCII made a clone of the Flash but that was also years ago during the PS1/PS2/DC era. You can find one of those ASCII sticks for around $100 for the whole joysticks.

But no currently available optical joysticks are sold.

~Paik

[UNW4NT3D]

is it possible to use the mounting plate from my JLW for a LS32? if not is there a universal mounting plate that I could use so I wouldn’t have to re-drill the holes for my stick mount when changing to LS32?

[Paik4Life]

No and no. That being said I believe the JLW and LS-32 have similar mounting hole dimensions. I’m not sure though. You’d have to compare the measurement. Basically that means you don’t need to swap mounting plates. Just use the JLW and LS-32 plates as they are and you should be able to use the same holes to mount them.

EDIT: I just checked the dimensions for you. The holes in each of the JLW and LS-32 flat mounting plates use the same screw hole dimensions. So if your stick is designed for either, you can put in the other and reuse the screws and holes.

~Paik

[UNW4NT3D]

you sir, are a legend! thanks very much I’m gonna order a LS-32 right now

[Kane_Blueriver]

Question: The Sanwa OBSN nuts have one flat side and another with small “sawteeth” in the other side. Which one goes in contact with the mounting surface and why?