Per, so is it still possible to use Sanwa Switches in Seimitsu buttons that Don’t use the SW-63 sized switches, by using the RG switches?
Do you not trust me?
Oh no haha I do trust you 100 percent. I sorta came straight into this Thread from the Stick Gallery and sorta of just glanced over your post.
Ok so I read your post and that confirms that they will fit but be a little loose. Does this apply to every Seimitsu button that doesn’t use the SW-63 sized switch? And no go on the snap ins, screw ins only? Well that actually doesn’t matter since this will mostly likely be done on the KN’s anyway. But say I do this mod, any ideas on how not to make them loose? Use something as a clutch?
PS-14-G, PS-14-GN, and PS-14-KN buttons can all use the RG long switches.
Basically the only thing that does not fit is the heads on the RG switches into the base on the plungers; the RG switches have a hollowed head kinda shaped like a plus-sign while these Seimitsu plungers have a flat slot. This just makes it so the head can turn a couple millimeters before they are stopped by the plunger securers that fit into the side of the buttons.
This is not really a bad thing; it actually gives the plunger somewhat of a nice flexibility. But if you are really troubled by it, you can either make the plunger side securers thicker, or preferably get some rigged plates about 8mm-10mm x 3mm x 1mm to add a male-male connection between the switches and plungers.
And note these switches stick out about 9mm farther than the stocked ones.
I couldn’t figure out where else to ask this without making a new thread or reviving a random Fight Stick 1/2/3 thread.
What’s up with the stigma surrounding HORI parts? I have never used them, but I have kind of been “conditioned” to immediately disregard them as inferior [to Sanwa and Seimitsu parts]. Is this really the case? If so, in what sense? Are they less responsive? More prone to break down? When it comes down to it, do they get the job done? Or can they legitimately be blamed for mistakes during a match?
having just replaced the HORI buttons on my hrap1 I can tell that that they are for lack of a better term “Clunky.” The responsiveness is not as great as a sanwa as the engage distance is longer, and the snaps on the snap-ins are looser which cause the buttons to spin.
Thanks for the answer. By the way, can you elaborate on the quote in your signature, LOL?
I am trying to mod a SFAE stick for a friend with Sanwa/Semitsu parts and needed to ask afew questions. What is the difference between the JLF-TP-8S and the JLF-TP-8S-SK? They look the same but have different costs so I wanted to be sure. Also the SFAE stick is about 1.5cm thick but is cut out alittle for the Happ/knockoff stick so I would say its about 1cm thick overall will I need to sand down or cut out anymore to make the joystick come closer to the right height?
I’ve got a random question about the JLF. Did they change their production or something? The reaason I ask this is because I’ve found zero consistency with all the JLFs I’ve ever played with. Some are loose, some are in the middle and some are even comparable to an LS-32. So whats the deal, am I crazy or has anyone else noticed this.
can someone tell me the difference between a sanwa joystick and a seimitsu joystick?
When I had my FS3, I had to push ALL THE WAY DOWN for it to register. It would register and the very bottom of the button push!!! I play softly so this caused a lot of missed commands lol.
Read the first post of this thread.
I just made a post about this in another thread, and I finally got around to drawing something I’ve been meaning to do for a loooong time.
If you don’t like the corners of your Seimitsu LS-32–unless it’s actually the Japanese square restriction shape that you hate–I guarantee it’s the switchable 8-way/4-way/2-way plastic piece on the bottom. Take it off!! Even when set for 8-way, it has little bits of plastic that jut out into the proper range of motion.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/2030/ls32yy6.png
Like this!
It’s the huge silly dark blue piece you want to take off. The aqua-teal square underneath it should stay on (that is the square).
Guys, how can I do this?
I’m planning on using an aluminium top plate for my CP, and go with all Sanwa parts, JLF and OBSF-30s and 24s. The cutting aluminium problem it’s already solved, but I want to know your ideas to mount the stick there. A regular S-Plate from Sanwa won’t work, because the stick shaft would be too short.
Is a good idea to use this spacers?. I don’t know if the stick would suffer from inestability by using those.
Any help is apreciated, thanks
Bad google translation of Inoue’s dissection of sf 4 lol
Wow I’m really glad you brought that up. I finally discovered this on slagcoin’s site–almost a year after I started using the LS-32-01. Do you know if Seimitsu treats it as an option or a necessity? If you want to use the blue restrictor, then are you supposed to remove the teal one?
Haha that’s what I figured.
LOL thanks for clarifying. Although for some reason I’m tempted to believe that some people still use their stock parts even in tournament play. I think I’ve seen a picture or two of top players using the HORI T5 stick or an HRAP with what appears to be default HORI buttons (assuming that they haven’t swapped them out…). I’m probably wrong about this.
I just did this and what an improvement it has made. I would have never thought that such a small thing could have such a big impact. It literally took a stick that I regarded as an 11/10 to a 12/10. Thanks for the info deadfrog! :rock:
Bump 
Pleaseee 
Yep, I just went to Impact Clash II and I saw a lot of T5s with the stock Hori buttons in them. I guess they just got used to it and haven’t heard of/tried Sanwa/Seimitsu buttons. Or maybe they don’t want to go through the hassle.
Also, many sticks players (I’ve found) like to slam/smack the buttons with some force, so using the Hori buttons is great for them lol.
You can always bolt the flat mounting plate underneath if you don’t mind exposed bolt heads.
I got a question.
I have a seimitsu ls-32-1 with an S-plate on it. I’m having a hard time installing it properly, so which would be a good substitute flat plate?