i just started researching how to make a joystick theres still a lot i dont know but im super excited about this project although i dont know anything about it. im looking forward to see whats in store for me and hope u all can help me out on these little speed bumps.
although people have said ls-56 is alot better than the ls-55 it is unfortunate that it would most likely not fit inside a FS without the most wacked out mods that just make the stick probably look more stupid than it already is
so instead imma have to make this decision between a ls-33 and a ls-55. Anyone know which one is better.
Does anyone know any reason other than the spring that a Sanwa JLF might have become too loose?
use an ls33 but put an ls56 spring in it and wrap some electrical tape around the white piece on the shaft to make it more like an ls56 and still fit in the case.
Ive got a small question that should be easy enough to answer; when does the Seimitsu button register that its being pushed?
Its got two stages when i push it. The first one is when i start pushing it down and it has slight resistance. The second stage is when ive pushed it down a bit. Its the very last, say, 2mm until it hits the bottom.
When does it actually push the button?
the very last 2mm. Thatās why I donāt like them.
Yep, thatās why I donāt like the screw-ins (the only thing I like about them is not having to let the button go up all the way in order to activate it again. This makes mashing moves such as lightning legs a lot easier). The snap-in Seimitsus feel completely different though.
does any one know if the ls-56 fits in the Hori T5 or EX2 with relative ease? Any help is greatly appreciated.
I was at a local arcade and saw a classic Pac-Man/Galaga machine. Well I donāt know if it was really an original machine or not, but it had those two games and their respective artwork on the cabinet. I noticed that the stick was lollipop style, but a little bit smaller. At first I thought that it was the LS-33, but then I wondered if the American company that manufactured the cabinet even had access to those. So I checked it out and I kind of liked it, lol. It was pretty stiff and it had a diamond gate (square gate rotated 45 degrees).
Does anybody know if that could have been a real Japanese stick or something manufactured by the company supplying the cabinet?
The Pacman/Galaga stick is usually a special version of the Happ Super. I have sometimes seen JLW sticks in them though.
The LS-56 and 55 will fit in the T5 as they are mounted exactly the same way as Sanwa JLFs. The ONLY stick that will go in the EX2 with relative ease is the LS-33.
Iāve only used screw in seimitsus. Are the snapins like sanwas? Is the switch different between the 2? Iād love to know.
oh, according to aki shop they KNās are āFunctionally identical to PS-14-Kā. Thx for the info though.
Thanks EvilSamurai! I have one more question. I am gonna sound like a complete noob here but I have not dealt with japanese parts yet (making the switch from Happ) and I have no idea where to wire Ground/Normally Closed on a seimitsu PS-14-KN (http://lizardlick.com/images/for_sale/pushbuttons/ps14kn_vi.jpg)
Any help is greatly appreciated.
It doesnāt really matter for jap buttons.
EvilSamurai knows what heās talking about. PS-14-Ks and PS-14-KNs do not even use the same switches; the only same part they use is the clear cap on the plunger. PS-14-Ks are a bit smoother and have a shorter engage distance.
im interested in using an ls 56, i have a control panel with mounts for jlf and mounts for an ls 32. what mounting panel will work with mounting an ls 56. someone said its the same as a jlf, but it doesnt look like it.
Double postā¦
Mountingplates for LS-56:
P-40
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalog/seimitsu-P40.jpg
MS
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalog/seimitsu-MS.jpg
VF (standard)
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalog/seimitsu-VF.jpg
Here is the Sanwa JLF-P-1 mountingplate:
IIRC,
PS-14-Kās use switches found in PS-14-Dās.
PS-14-KNās use switches found in PS-14-Gās
Iāve already redone my buttons chart a couple weeks ago. I should soon update my site to show it. I added Engage Distance (aka sensativity and responsiveness). It should help in assessing button functionality better.
If you want Seimitsu screw-in buttons to feel like Sanwa buttons, the most simple way is to replace the switches in them with Sanwa G1 (used in -RG buttons) switches, though this is expensive, and the plunger will loosely twist a bit, though I do not think it is bad. Seimitsu snap-ins tend to have shorter engage distance than the screw-ins do, but slightly farther than Sanwa standard buttons.