will that be easier then breaking the pins on top of the JLF?
You can buy a chip from Toodles that will allow you to hook up a Sanwa JLF to a PCB without common grounds. The chip was originally designed for Xbox 360 controllers but may work on other pcbs. Ask Toodles about it.
JLF-TP-8YT (comes with harness and mounting plate) vs JLF-TP-8Y (comes without harness or mounting plate). I also noticed it has Sanwa written on the plastic round thing that goes around the base of the stick on the 8YT.
Is that the only difference? I tried both and one 8YT in the arcade is very smooth and not very clicky, a brand new 8Y is very clicky and has more resistance (not nearly as smooth) as the 8YT. Are these differences because the 8YT I tried has been used alot? Both had a square gate.
The only reason the 8Y and the 8YT would feel different is age or mounting depth. They are the same stick. You listed the differences yourself.
Either solution is not difficult, but buying a few more parts will be more expensive than just cutting a few traces.
Personally, I keep common ground PCBs for the sanwa JLF and the other type of PCBs for Seimitsu LS-32 (not the -01 variant).
Will .187" QDs fit on .110" terminals and fit decently or would this be an area of concern? Which size of button is closer to 1 1/8th?
You *could *use .187 QDās on .110 terminals. The only thing that matters is that you have solid metal to metal contact. If one was loose you could simplet sqeeze it a litte with a set of pliers and then put it on.
As for buttons, You want to drill a 1-1/8" hole for a happ button, you need to drill a 30mm hole for a 30mm button and you need to drill a 15/16" (24mm) hole for a 24mm button. Anything else is too risky. :wgrin:
I know the correct mounting-depth (ie. same as a proper arcade cabinetās control panel) for a Sanwa JLF is 9mm. I wanted to double-checkā¦ that 9mm is measured from the top of the mounting plate to the top of the control panel surface, correct?
Like this:
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/4286/sanwajlffj2.png
Can anyone tell me what the correct mounting depth is for the Seimitsu LS-32(-01)?
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/630/seimitsuls32flatyf8.png
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/7218/seimitsuls32sjv1.png
Am I better off using the flat mounting plate or the S-shaped one?
Does the Seimitsu LS-32 need to use the flat mounting plate? Does the Seimitsu LS-32-01 need to use the S-shaped mounting plate?
LS-32(-01) mount as high as possible, so right under the acrylic due to the extremely short shaft S youāll want to top mount. Either mounting plate can be used for either stick.
~Paik
:u: I learned from Paik to mount the Seimitsuās like so
(I have altered your images to explain)
This is what makes the S-plate so great, you have room for the bolt heads on top of the plate (and under the plexi).
Thanks, I needed an excuse to get out of the saw dust and sit down for a bit :wgrin:
Can anyone tell me a good place to get 24mm and 30mm drill bits?
Whatās the difference between the OBSF-30 and the OBSF-30-K/DH?
If Iām mounting buttons on 1/2" MDF with a layer of plexi over it, do I want to be using snap-ins or screw-ins?
How do I want to mount the LS-30 (not -01)? Same?
thatās very nice information but
I think S-plate for short shaft because some people like kunckle hold a little stick than hand hold a stick. Who want fighter for use kunckle? lol
http://www.australian-postcodes.com/custom-stick/JLF-TP-8Y-Mounting-Options.pdf
No, the different plate is for mounting in different arcade cabinets. Thats what these parts are manufactured for, arcade cabinets.
They dont make em that way for knuckles. :wgrin:
Opi, plus the link you provided was for a Sanwa JLF, the shaft length is different from a Sanwa to a Seimitsu so they are mounted different.
Thanks a ton for the answer, Paik!
Timoe, your prowess with mspaint is a joy and a beauty. Those diagrams are amazingly helpful. 
Iām hungry for precise details with the Seimitsu mount because Iām just that sickā¦ how thick is the polycarbonate/acrylic you guys are using?
Any local hardware store should have them, but theyāll be labelled as 15/16" and 1-3/16".
Itās all the same button type. The K and DH is just an indication of the colour. (B is blue, DB is dark blue, O is orange, etc.)
Youāre going to want to use snap-ins and youāll have to file two little grooves on each hole to fit the buttonsā tabs. Alternately, you could use screw-ins if you switch to a thinner wood (masonite is stronger at this thin-ness) and your plexi is thin enough. Screw-ins fit just under 9mm as a maximum thickness, while snap-ins fit between 2 and 4.
Iām a happ guy, but I was looking at maybe going for a Japanese stick this time, to shave some depth off the next stick I make.
Is the JLW-TM-8 pretty much a Japanese Happ Competition? What Iāve read here seems to indicate it is, at least in terms of spring stiffness. It also looks to be about as deep as Happ joysticks - which sadly is what Iām trying to avoid. 
Is there a schematic for it that lists depth?
What Iāve read is that the LS-32 is probably the closest to a Happ, but that it is a square gate. Is there anyway to change to to a circular? If I read correctly, the dark blue restrictor plate does not affect anything on that stick, so Iām confused as to what actually causes the square restriction in it.
Finally, the US T5 anniversary stick - what stick would you say that was closest to in feel? Iām curious because it felt way, way too loose for me.
The LS-32 feels very close to a comp. The square restrictor does not really harm the joystick like it does on a Sanwa JLF (which NEEDS an octagonal gate in order to play 2d fighters effectively IMO).
Can someone tell me which type of buttons require the *least *amount of effort to activate?
From what Iāve heard, itās the Sanwas.
I managed to dig up the awesome explanation post for this that Iāve been looking for all this time: see here.
Does anyone know where I can get the dimensions for the Seimitsu LS-32 mounting plate? (I would prefer top down dimensions so that I can know how wide and tall to make my measurements for cutting and routing), all the links to dimensions at Akihabarashop are dead. Thanks in advance for any help given.