I mean I posted my modded panthera like 4 posts above yours. The plexi is great, I’m used to ART’s stuff so I wasn’t sure how good FA would be. Was impressed with both the quality of their printer as well as the plexi itself. They managed to get the thickness just right so that it doesn’t warp when you put in the screws tight and the height is very close to the default Razer plexi.
Hey does anyone with an Atrox have time to take a few pics of how plugs / screws on top hold the plexi down? I am interested in making a custom stick, and I like how the Atrox has minimized the top protrusion screws / plugs. Ideally it would be nice having the plexi connected to the top so that it’s completely flat with no exposed screw heads, but it’s not really possible, since there needs to be something to hold it in place, like screws or a bezel.
I would appreciate if I could get a few pics of the screw / plugs themselves, and the holes in the plexi. And also from underneath so I can see how they have connected the plexi to the case.
I’m also wondering if there is any metal plate on the Atrox, and what thickness they used? Also any comments about flaws in the design would be interesting, don’t want to repeat the mistake if it actually doesnt work well. e.g. loose or flimsley, rattles etc.
Is the Atrox worth the money, I am a college student so I will be tight on cash for a couple years, I will be playing MvC Infinite and Killer Instinct, if theres no cheaper option I will probably use the standard XB1 pad.
If you’re only playing one Xbox One your options are limited in commercial market sticks. Go for it!
Hello, i think my x360 Atrox just died, it’s not the cable since when i connect it, being the 360 or my PC, it recognizes i’m plugging something, but on the PC it just pops up the “USB device not recognized” bubble, and the lights on the panel won’t turn on, i’ve been using it for over 3 years so, is it safe to say the PCB is just dead or is there something i could do about it?
Update: I tried plugging a USB A to the 5 pin connector on the PCB and then plugging a USB male to USB male from the stick to the PC, same result, what else could i do?
How much work would the Razer Panthera need to be adapted to Korean levers? I’m trying to figure out if it’s cheaper to try and get one of those modded than it is to import an Etokki Omni.
Although modders are exceedingly hard to find in Europe.
Infiltration has K lever is his and after watching people throw K levers in the atrox, it seems like a simple swap, the Infiltration special edition lever will be sold on FocusAttack and Ill be looking to grab it as my first lever.
If your Korean lever has Japanese mounting holes and no collar, it’s easy. If it has a collar you need to make the joystick hole bigger which is more work but doable.
Definitely doable but a lot of these folks won’t have the step drill bits or comfortable permanently modifying their panels. Opens up a market for someone to make replacement Korean panels like the hitbox panels Jasen makes.
For sure, I lack the tools and the skills to make mods like that myself.
Hey guys, I have a Razer Panthera and it’s my second fightstick but it’s also the first time I’m going to try a somewhat simple modding job on, just changing buttons and the stick out and changing the art with the FocusAttack service mentioned earlier.
I was wondering if anyone tried changing the glowing blue LED in the button that opens the case of the Panthera; is that possible without too much potential damage? I’m going to have Persona 5 art on my Panthera and it’d be nice to have the LED glow red instead of blue. If it can’t be helped it wouldn’t bother me too much but I figured I’d try to make everything lined up to the Black/Red color scheme. It’s a shame the Hayabusa matte buttons in red are sold out…
I’ve done it on my atrox (swapped from green to yellow). I assume it’s possible on the panthera too
Any chance anyone can give a newbie like me any idea how to do that x)
Unscrew a few screws to take the button out and take out the small circuit board the LED is on. Desolder and remove the old LED and solder the new one in. Put everything back. Done.
I play on the pc, would like to buy a razer, I wonder if between the razer atrox xbox 360 and the razer panthera has a lot of quality difference? Why would I spend less to razer atrox xbox 360, in my country the price difference between the two is $136.78.
Get the Razer panthera, the Atrox has build issues
Razer listen to our gripes and improved their products
If the price difference is still too much, get something else.
Maybe looking into the DIY route
The Atrox has a pretty bad reputation since one of them crapped out in a finals match at EVO, it’s also got some build issues like Darksakul said.
I went the DIY route when I was in college, and it was the most cost-efficient way to build a stick by spreading the payments out over time instead of one big charge.
Whats the big list of build issues with the Atrox compared to the Panthera?
Also, what Seimitsu and Crown sticks are compatible with the Atrox?
Atrox has that shitty custom connector (actually the connector used for some care stereos) that tends to break after some time.
Anyone have schematics/diagram for the Home PCB and the Main PCB for the Xbone version of the Atrox?