I am not the only one who feels that way about razer, so do not think you can be slick and single me out.
Someone a week ago asked a question, I answered it.
You don’t like it, I don’t care.
(Puts on Shades).
Not Darksakul, but I also have issues with Razer sticks. I have never owned one and or played on one, but I’ve modded several so I’d say I’m qualified to make a review.
Number one being the removable cable. These are worse than the TE2 cables simply because 1) you can’t get them with anything other than the stick itself and 2) it’s the main point of failure on both models. The TE2 cable you can at least get from an MLG pro controller or something and be OK. The cables from the Razers are not interchangeable, so that means you are SOL if you have both sticks and lose one or break one. Also, the TE2 cable does not work on the Razer or vice versa, so you’d have to rewire the incoming USB in order to get it to work. Also, the cable is a pretty tight fit for the little compartment it’s supposed to fit in. The TE2 cable fits perfect in its little spot. That’s all for the cable.
2 is the quality of the shell. The side panels are very thin so it feels like shit when you hold it from the side while the case is open. The gas struts have been known to break, their customer service sucks… I could go on and on.
Happy?
I remember when I got my brother’s Atrox and the PCB burned out the exact moment I connected it to my xbox360. I got a new one for free, but was utterly disappointed to have to wait 4 more days to get it back. Also, people here were still in love with the stick and kept asking me if I didn’t do anything wrong.
Gotta admit though that after the initial trouble everything is still fine as far as I can tell.
hey @Vicko do you know what this is?
Im trying to install a kaimana kit, but i dont know what to run to the VCC, i know ground and inputs and everything else but i dont know how to run voltage to it
Im considering getting a Brooks UFB and a Neutrik for my xb1, but i dont know what this is and if the neutrik would be an easy install or not, im shit at soldering so im trying to just make this as easy as possible on myself
Is there a way to run VCC from the atrox xb1 pcb to the VCC on the kaimana breakout easy?
Or is the Brooks UFB and neutrik an easy enough install to where it will be worhit in the long run
That’s the headset
If you’re using the Brook and a neutrik you don’t need the original pcb.
ahh okay, and sorry to bother but i just need the question answreed because it seperates wether i spend $150 or $250
How would i run vcc from the atrox pcb to the kaimana breakout? i havent got the UFB yet and won’t if i can run VCC from the atrox pcb to the kaimana breakout easily
Sorry again but thanks for the help
Again if you’re ditching the atrox pcb, no need to run anything from it. Just solder a wire or use a harness from USB 5v to Vcc on the Kaimana if you decide to keep it for some reason.
@vicko okay thanks, im going to take your advice and opt for the UFB
Ill just solder the USB in
i think i have everything i need here
you dont need the kaimana breakout with the ufb
@vicko lol thought I removed that hahaha, thanks for the help, I’ll tip ya at evo, I’m removing the breakout and I’ll submit the order
Instead of soldering I might go with a USB female screw terminal adapter then to the ufb
But either way I really appreciate it
hey @Vicko sorry to bother you again, im having a hard time getting the home button on my atrox wired to the UFB, i know per your install that the 2nd pin down is home, but do i also need to connect a ground to it? cant get it to work at all
i believe the one above it is ground, but not 100%
Do you have a multimeter?
You might also have to connect 3.3v but I doubt it.
I GOT IT! thanks man, besides 2 defective j2’s my install is complete!
SO! finally got my install of a Brooks UFB and Kaimana into my Xbox One Atrox completed…kinda
I started out with the intention of trying to do the install without soldering. Everything seemed easy except for one main thing, running the USB line to the Brook UFB, i ended up ordering a screw terminal USB Female adapter, and ran a usb A to B cord from it to the UFB
The second thing i did to avoid Soldering is to scotchlok the RGB LED from the JLF Balltop to the Kaimana Adapter
Unfortunately i had two dead J2’s on arrival, but i wired everything in so it makes it easier when i get them
After everything was said and down i attempted to clean up and organize the wires as much as possible, hopefully its not too bad for my first time modding a stick
Good job!
Anyone know what size screws the honeycomb takes in comfortably?
I forgot which size but its a standard PC size. I want to say M4 but its probability wrong.
The honeycomb lacks threads so you kinda have to force the screws in anyways.
So about a month or two ago i designed and printed this out to hold an imp to where the hole in the atrox is. Finally got around to taking a few pictures and making this post.
Here are the links to the designs. You can download the stl files there as well
I cannot promise this will work on the atrox xbone version.
I’m modding my Xbox One Razer Atrox, and I’m trying to take the usb conector of its case. can someone tell me how can i do it with out breaking anything? I already remove all of the screws, the plastic seem lock in someway
pry it out