it’s a secret :).
Just a bunch of lights basically.
If it’s a double-sided PCB, then drilling a hole would not work. The reason being is that it’s double-sided for a reason. There are separate traces on both sides of the PCB and drilling through and putting a wire through would likely connect two different traces. I haven’t hacked a DC pad because I don’t see the point when a PS pad is cheaper, easier to hack, and has a greater number of acceptable converters. I honestly don’t even know if the PCB is double-sided, but for some reason, I think it is.
~Paik
[quote=“pxldtz, post:18, topic:16708”]
as promised. the inside of the sf:ac pad for xbox.
with some simple diagrams i put in.
http://www.disillusioned-inc.org/sfacpad_dpad.png
http://www.disillusioned-inc.org/sfacpad_button.png
[quote]
Just wanted to thank pxldtz for his nice pics on the hack - I did my first one, and it was relatively easy - if someone is new to hacking as I was - the sf:ac pad is the one for you.
I personally use these pads since its the only system I use and the pads are cheap and available locally.At EBGAMES they are 1.99 and thats cheap to me and thats about the same price as a cheap SONY pad.The stores around here dont stock the third party pads like madcatz since they are used. I had found one before and the other madcatz I had a friend gave to me. I dont use converters cuz they are more of an expense to me also. the only people I make sticks for are the locals here and we only play marvel so no need to use converters.
Ima get my multimeter out and start poking around. Thanks Paik.
Are there any electronics guys around here. Last night I was messing around with my meter and trace the spot we noramlly solder to on the triggers. They go thru a resistor(I think but Im not sure the name of the part) then it goes to CHIP thingy on the lower canter left near the sega logo. Would it possible to reduce the lag on the triggers by avoiding the resistors or would it still lag from the signal still lag passing thru the chip. im trying to get lag free fro people who dont like the lag. I myself dont care about the lag since it doesnt affect my marvel game.:arazz:
Resistors don’t create lag. The lag could occur as the charge needs to build before it reaches switching point on the hall effect sensor:
If you’ve wired into the correct points on the HEDs then you shouldn’t get lag at all.
I think it’s time I went to visit my buddy and his new oscilloscope, and gather some empirical evidence about this analogue lag business. I’m getting sick of all this internet rumour.
Im not even sure if the lag is there. Before when I tested it on third strike I couldnt get an EX move out of medium and hard punch or kicks. I didnt know if this was lag or the game itself was coded to use these combination of buttons to do this action. As of day one I have been hacking on the top left oint of HED 5-6. It was curiousity and reading almost everyone on SRK to try and find a lag free point on the OG PAD.
It just bugs me a little that all this talk of lag is based on “feelings” and the naked eye. Not a single piece of scientific/electronic testing or evidence has been put forth anywhere that I can find.
I’m not jumping up and down and saying there is or isn’t lag. I just want to do some real testing on real equipment and put an end to all the argument with some real factual data. I’m hitting up an electrical engineering mate of mine now to see if he can build something that will do the job.
I would also like to know this TALE OF LAG is true or not. Please please keep us informed this. To kill the easter bunny once and for all:devil: :devil::devil:
That’s a great idea, elvis. I would like to know the true answer as well. I look forward to your results.
~Paik
Blockbuster has sent all their controllers back to some spot and won’t be selling controllers anymore… 
I guess I’ll have to pay full price for this pcb on ebay or something. Oh, could you check your pm, I sent you a message days ago regarding this hack…
I did the sf pad hack. Its pretty easy. I love this pad cause you can do the triggers real easy. I like to use the triggers instead of the white and black buttons because for some games they allow you to select hidden characters or actually used. I bought my pads from ebgames at 9 dollars a pop.
I thought the left/right triggers couldn’t be done on this. Or at least the solder points are not pictured in the two pics earlier posted… I’ll stop by an ebgames maybe tonight, although it’s in a ghetto mall, and I happen to be in a suit right now. Actually, maybe tomorrow… Did you connect the wires directly from the copper point to the buttons/joystick, or use a terminal or something? Also, did you drill through the pcb or just scrape off some pcb until there was copper? I went to a hobby shop the other day and bought a hand drill with real small bits that seem good for 26 guage wire, thinking my dremel might get out of hand. Actually, tell me everything. I so want to do this hack right, as I’m building a hello kitty stick for my daughter for Christmas…
I got three sfac pads last night at ebgames. They had 4. And on clearance for 9 dollars. I opened up the guile one, and the solder points for the L + R triggers were right in front of me. This is great
Ok this is a noob question, but when it comes to this sort of thing I am a noob!
Is the basic principal of pad hacking to wire the buttons and stick from an arcade stick to the “receivers” for the buttons and d-pad of a console control pad?
I actually have the Akuma Xbox SF Anniversary pad, so if I bought some buttons and a good stick (plus a case either made or bought) would I be all set?
You would need 3 more things. Wire, solder and a soldering gun. Do a search for chippermonky How to solder thread. It goes into how to a hack a pad and what is involved.
sfac xbox pad confusiion
Hey Buyproduct, where did you solder to, to get the L+R trigger buttons up and running. Here’s a picture of the left trigger:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/supergrafx77/pcblefttrigger.jpg
Also, following previous instructions posted about this topic, I drilled holes through the pads close to the buttons as in this pic of the right-side of the pcb:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/supergrafx77/rightsidepcb.jpg
However, I noticed that in the previous posted, that the black and white pads had nothing soldered to them. This is confusing. Another thing that somewhat baffles me, is the fact that in the tutorial pics, the adjoining neighbor pad have not been soldered to but rather the main directional pad itself. I drilled one hole, but then stopped myself, until I could get some advice from you guys. Here’s a pic, where I drilled through the left directional pad:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/supergrafx77/pcbleft.jpg
My other dillema, is whether to use stranded or solid 22 awg wire. I’m taking that I should use solid, right?
First: I didnt drill any holes into the pad. I have never heard of this being done before.
For the Triggers. One solder point is a ground and the other is the actuall signal. If you look at your second picture the solder point at the upper right next to the white rectangle labled R30 is the ground. It has the white ribbon coming out from it on the other side that goes to the trigger pcb. The one solder point on the trigger that connects via the white ribbon to ground solder point is your ground. The other point is therefore your signal.
As for not soldering the black and white buttons. The triggers serve the same function so people tend not to used the black and white buttons.
As for the wire that is up to you. When I did my hack I only had 20 gauge wire which is very thick and I was still able to hit the solder points.
If I remeber and have time will try and take a good picture of my hacked pad. Be warned though my wiring is atrocious.
I do it all the time. It gives a much better joint because, while the wire can still be pulled off, any tension on the wire pulls towards the solder joint, not away from it.
See the pic for what I mean. For extra security though, I use hot glue on the joints after soldering and testing. See second pic.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/DominatrixQueen/th_100_0951.jpghttp://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/DominatrixQueen/th_100_0952.jpg
[quote=“NiteWalker”]
Wow, thank you both so much with the info. I’ll go through with soldering and drilling the additional holes through the white/black and trigger buttons, d-pad as well. Would you guys mind leaving the pics up for a bit, as others may also find this useful.