*The "padhacking" thread*

Yes you can hook it up just fine. PS doesn’t have +5V but it has like 3.3V and that will suffice. On DualShock PCBs, there is a red wire that comes from the cord to the PCB. Solder your optical PCB’s red wire (Vcc) to the point where that red wire and PCB meet on the PS PCB. Everything else you do normally.

~Paik

That’s great! Thanks a lot for your help guys. I’ll try and post up some photos of the finished job!

Thanks. Is there a method to do instead of quick disconnects?

you can solder straight to the switches

I have an m series ps1 duel shock, can this be soldered like an h series? what about non shock ps1 controllers? plz help

yes, and non-dual shock pads can be soldered. they’re just a little more difficult to solder onto because of the smaller traces.

now for more DC pad confusion.

i was trying to hack a Nyko DC Commander. there are many, many different grounds, so i decided it would be a good idea to give each button its own ground wire. i did that and it worked, but the C and Z buttons are messed up. the only activate when they’re released, and only if they’re released as soon as they’re pressed. :frowning: it looks like these are fake C and Z buttons. they seem to be just linked to the potentiometers up in the L and R switches.

does anyone know how i can make them respond normally? i can’t find any hackable DC pads anymore.

Question, can someone tell me how many amps the controller port of a ps2/xbox/gamecube/dreamcast can provide?

I got one of those first-edition Playstation controllers (the ones with no analogs). Is the soldering points the same as the PS1 DualShock?

Should be. I’m not sure if they are as widely compatable with converters, but it should be just the same otherwise.

how would you use the solderless hack with a JLF-H cable? should i just strip the cable wires to expose the metal to put in the a-series PCB?

The links don’t seem to be working anymore. Do you have anymore links? I’m interested in hacking an xbox SFAC pad and this would help me out a lot.
thanks

easiest way without trying to cram that wire into the ribbon socket is to use a terminal block. thin wire to the pcb connector, then to the terminal block then secure the thicker wire from the 5pin connector to the other side of the terminal block.

asking again, how many amps can the controller port of ps2/gamecube/DC provide? THanks.

I use original PSX controller, and it works with every converter except my gamecube converter. In fact, for some odd reason my dualshock has lag with this crappy converter I got from walmart and the PSX doesn’t. But I would say you are safe with majority of them. Its easy to hack, one ground, small, and 6ft+ long cord FTW.

Chippermonkey: I think they only put out about 3-5 volts.

yeah, I need to know how many amps though.

Does the DC pas use a common ground for all the buttons & directions?

Anyone knows?

If by “DC pas” you meant “DC pad”, then yes.:wgrin:

yes i meant DC pad

thanks :rofl:

before I go and attempt this Id like some advice. Im using the OG DC pad for my hack. Ive done this before and Ive always soldered to the top of the pad as shwon here. http://arkadesticks.com/hackedpads/Dreamcastofficialpad.jpg

My question is if u solder to the bottom side will it stick. I assume yes if I expose the copper trace. Im sure you guys are asking y would I want to do that. Well I want to open the holes and insert wires. I think the holes are filled with copper already so by drilling it out it would no longer work.And sticking the wire in I assume it would create the flow for the circuit again. After i drilled out the holes Im gonna solder this way for a neater cleaner pad. Also I have the problem with my solder joints not sticking so i want to try this way to have a stronger bond. I want to solder to the top and bottom of the pad where the wire is inserted to create a bond as strong as I can get. I never have this problem with and PS pads just my DC ones.

Googling around, it seems the average pad draws 10-20 milliamps. General concensus is that you shouldn’t draw more than 100 milliamps, but even that number sounds pretty dangerous to me.

It stick with a self-imposed 50-60 milliamp cap myself. That’s about all you need to power a few LEDs without any dramas.

What exactly are you trying to power?