EDIT: Never mind, this thread http://shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122070 and its news story ( http://ps2.ign.com/articles/744/744271p1.html ) just answered my question.
So with the PS3 looming, anyone going to try and hack the Sixaxis? Or try and fashion some PSX->PS3 converter of some sort? Shouldn’t have hestitated to ask here first instead of posting about it over at that PS3 thread in GD. :looney:
NiteWalker,
What type and size of drill bit did you use? And also, do you always use a hot glue gun? I’m still new to all of this but I wish I had thought of that before. Guess I’ll go get me some hot glue today.
I use a 1/16" drill bit but could go even smaller. About 1/32". The type is a simple twist bit. I just haven’t bought it yet. Yeah, I always use hot glue. It takes all stress away from the solder joint and puts it on the glue joint (which isn’t going to move, trust me).
You can get a mini glue gun for $3 at wal-mart in the craft section and the glue sticks are ~$4 for a bag of 100. I think they sell them in smaller quantities of 30 for about $2. Worthwhile investment.
NiteWalker, can you put hot glue on both sides of the one sided pcbs? I noticed the underside of the pcb where the wire is threaded through, could use some more support. I wired/soldered up my controller, and the 22 awg wire fit perfect through my drilled holes. Now, I need to test the connects.
Yes, you can. And I usually do for the added support as you mentioned.
Chatted to some engineering buddies, and they’re going to give me a hand writing some software under Linux that will poll a parallel port for inputs. I’ll hook up a microswitch directly to one pin, and the output from the DC pad to another. That way I can use the program to measure the time delay between the switch being hit and the output, down to whatever accuracy the parallel IRQ gives me (milliseconds is good enough for me).
But that’s yet another project in a long list of projects. I don’t expect I’ll get around to it until Christmas/New-Year some time, but when I do I’ll post the results in this forum.
^^Sounds good, it’ll be great to find this out once and for all.
SFAC wierdness
Ok, so I’ve hacked a good number of SFAC pads, but this latest xbox one has been giving me a bit of trouble. It seems that all of the buttons are on rapid fire with the exception of the stick. I grounded them seperately as advised, but I’m wondering if this is a problem with the ground, and if I should just re-wire the grounds, though my connections seem secure.
Actually, I ran into this problem, I think, last night. I bought a multimeter to check the continuouity of my connections. On the d-pad, when I place one of the multimeter’s probes on the ground, and touch each d-pad button’s copper traces on the pcb, there are no beeps, so this is good. However, on the buttons, the ground shorts (beeps) all the copper traces on the pcb’s buttons, but not on the adjacent pads (smaller copper trace pads), I soldered to. The connects on the buttons have been checked and are good. Since I haven’t gotten my buttons/joystick as of yet, I have no way to ultimately check whether those solder points cancel out this anomoly?!? Is this what’s going on in your neck of the woods, Final Cut?
Actually, nevermind on my last worries. I “hot-tested” the controller w/ it plugged in and all the connects are activating button responses (all buttons work)
hey everyone,
I have a China A-series ps1 dual shock pcb and I was wondering if I could still use the pcb some how for my stick. I ordered the controller off of ebay thinking I could use the pcb for the solderless hack, but I found out a bit too late that I needed the korean A series. Any help?
This thread should be a sticky
I’d agree, especially if half of the links weren’t broken. (arkadesticks)
Does anyone have a diagram / picture on how to solder a PS2 street fighter anniversary controller? Are they similar enough to a PS one PCB that I could figure it out? Thank you.
I’ve purchased a branless 3rd party ps1 dual shock pad and was wondering if all pads have a common ground and if there was to tell which the ground from the signal point without having to go through the trial and error process
Please help a brother out if I screw this one up I won’t have any ps1 pads left to work with
Thanks
Wow, I didn’t realize until opening up that it labels itself for you. Sweet.
I think I know how to sodder a regular psx pad but all I can get my hands on is dualshock 1. The links in the beginning seem to be down so could anyone tell me what the difference would be? Thanks a bunch =D.
http://arkadesticks.com/hackedpads/PSOneDualShockH.jpg
could someone repost the jpeg in the broken link please?
That’s a lot of work that wont work. There wont be any output at all from the DC end until its given a status request over the data lines. The two data lines use this weird 2mbps over two wires with no clock line, by using the negative edge of one line as the clock signal to check the number 2 line, then waiting for the number 2 line to negative edge as clock to check number 1 line, repeat ad nauseum. That just the 1’s and 0’s of the serial protocol they use. There is also the commands from the DC over that line to check the status of the controller, as well as the same command but also requesting a CRC of the returned packet as well. The DC protocol is not easy, at all, and I don’t think the LPT port will work at 2 megabit/sec speeds.
Wouldn’t it be easier to just a microswitch, wire one end to ground, and the other end to X, Y, and a trigger. Hell, wire it a direction on the D pad while you’re at it. Go into cvs2 training mode, turn on key display, and hit the microswitch. if all of the attached digitals show on the same line as the trigger’s key, then it works without lag. If the trigger is on the line below, it lags at least 1 frame (1/60th of sec, 16millisecs). Test 10 or twenty times in a row, and let us know.
This would put to sleep the entire issue of which contacts for the trigger to use on first party pads. Keep in mind, there are a couple of places around the hal sensor that people have recommended to use.