No, no retailer will have that kind of information available. Your best bet is to buy them on Ebay or whatever and ask the seller to look at the series letter on the back. I’m in the same boat, all I’ve been able to find for the last while is A series, but that’s fine, the solderless hack is super easy.
ripped the traces? You could post pic and see if an expert can see if the traces can be soldered onto elsewhere. . . doubt it though.
The triggers aren’t necessary for 6 button games like SF. Just use 4 faces and the two shoulder buttons.
I know the triggers aren’t needed, but I wanted to have them for other games on the PC.
Guess I’ll just get another.
are the psx dulshock analog series M controllers easy to hack. I found a pic by someone here but is a non dulshock board do you wired the wires of the series m analog dulshock and the series m non dulshock. this is the pic i found by erickstanton
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i169/erikstanton/0110082023.jpg. have you ever wire a series m anolog dulshock erickstanton.
I’ve hacked a PSx DS M-Series. It was an easy job. There is exposed copper for many of the buttons.
I just want to know how to wire the 4 face buttons I know how to wire the joystick,
Folks, just a heads up - I haven’t done TOO much playing with the PCB yet, but, Gamestop is running their “Gamedays” sale and they have Wireless PS3 controllers on sale for $14.99 each. They run off of 2 AAs and a USB adaptor - not sure what kind of lag that may or may not introduce. Seems to me this is currently the cheapest way to hack a PS3 PCB for now though - once I resolder the wires connecting the PCB to the battery pack, I’ll start testing outputs.
http://www.gamestop.com/Catalog/ProductDetails.aspx?product_id=64441
I dunno. Might wanna check if you can hold left on the D-pad for more than a few seconds.
Anyone try hacking this before?
PS3 Solderless!
Since Game Crazy has their used Sixaxis controllers for $30 ($27 with card), I decided to get one to modify, and give a solderless procedure a shot.
I got an exacto, some needle-nose pliers, the Sixaxis PCB, some thinly insulated 24 AWG solid wire (many 24 AWG wires have too much insulation), and a couple 1/8 watt 8.2K resistors. I did a staggered strip between the wires in the pins needing the resistor link and, with the help of the pliers, wound the resistor ends tightly around them. Then I stripped 3/32" off each wire and inserted them with the pliers into each slot in the ribbon face terminal.
Tested it out and it works.
Took me about half an hour. I’d give it a moderate difficulty. I still like my solder a lot more, but in some respects, this may work better on this PCB. You need the right kind of wire to pull this off. As with some other solderless procedures, you probably cannot entirely rely on this method working out.
Problems with ps3 padhack
I have soldered the 20 wires needed onto a SIXAXIS pcb and most of the buttons work just fine. I am using 2 7.5k resistors in place of the plastic strip. There are two problems:
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Neither L2 nor R2 work properly. Whenever I press one of those, it fires all the buttons attached to that common ground. So pressing L2 fires L2, L1 and all the directions, pressing R2 fires R2, R1 and all the face buttons. I have heard other people having troubles with L2 and R2 - is there anything I can do to get these working?
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Start and select do not work when connected to the middle common wire but they do work when connected to either common left or common right. Thus I can still get them to work but this really confuses me because I checked the soldering and was fairly sure I didn’t cross any wires.
I would really appreciate any help you guys could offer on this problem.
I have not done this with solder, but I can tell you a few things.
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The bases at the ends of each side of the terminal also connect to paths that activate all those signals. I think you need to be extra careful that the wires for R2 and L2 are only attached to the pins.
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I’m not sure why the Select and Start buttons are not working with the proper ground. I have not tried this with a 7.5K resistors, but I’ve heard of others doing it well, and it is not far from the 8.2K resistors I used. A lot of the signals seem to work only off different grounds. I bet the wiring could be consolidated down quite a bit using different grounds on many of the signals.
And the PCB in my above pictures does work just fine.
Slagcoin, you take great pictures. :tup:
Thanks. 
Not always easy to do.
Do you guys know the best way to remove the L1/R1/R2/L2 buttons off of the ps1 pcb? They’re right under the ground points, the ones that are an insulated trio of wires and says 26AWG to be exact on them.
I think im a little in over my head with the six axis controller. Is it possible to hack it without also having to add resistors? Sorry if this has been answered before, so many pages to skim through… 
Also: I heard that the six axis randomly drops signals, is this true even when using the usb cord? If so, Is the ds3a better choice overall to hack?
This bug was fixed over a year ago.
Thanks for the reply. Was that a firmware fix then? Really doesnt matter much either way because I got mine recently, so probably doesnt apply to me. Just checking though. Any help on the resistor question?
There are resistors in the ribbon face in this controller. You need to keep the ribbon face in the terminal, or apply a couple resistors between the proper pins. I much prefer the second option.
All you need to do is go down to an electronic components store (like Radio Shack) and ask the guy to get you “a small pack of 1/8 Watt 8.2K Resistors”. It’ll cost about a buck.
Is there any PS1/2 controller with a good PCB that is still being produced? The PS1 pad probably has the best PCB for pad hacking but they’re not that easy to get.