Little tip for everyone, especially the solder’ rookies :
I figured out that in the madcatz arcade’ pcb, all the buttons were already drilled, resulting a very useful little hole to put the wire in, excepted on the A button, like showed UltraDavid:
Here is the alternative A solder point :
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/509/224345551482be153e39bbiag4.jpg
Hope it can helps.
Has anybody hacked the Logitech ChillStream pad for the ps3? There aren’t that many other 3rd party pads for the Ps3 so our choices are a little limited.
The Chillstream pad doesn’t have a PS button which kinda sucks. I can recommend the Horipad 3 Turbo, have used them myself for 2 sticks and they work great. The PCB has 4 separate grounds if I remember correctly.
weee new person here 
went to fry’s and bought a Mad Catz “gamepad 200” for PS2, after completely destroying the start button pad on my old analogless playstation first party controller, trying to modify my x-arcade solo. (it wasn’t a lag issue, but for some reason 3S and more importantly for me KOF2002 ps2 was giving me random inputs at times that i didn’t understand. plus i have a x-arcade dual from ebay i got real cheap so i was like what the hell, let’s try it since it’ll take awhile for my hrap2 to get here and it’s spring break for me.)
After 45 minutes…
The pad has many big golden circles on the circuit leading to where the button is actually activated by the button press, so there are huge gold plates to solder onto for each of the face buttons and the dpad. the L and R pieces of PCB that extend by 3 wires off of the main pcb like all other playstation pads, there are actually 3 holes+plates there for L1 L2 and ground, R1 R2 and ground, which makes me think that madcatz actually WANTS ppl to take apart their pads for modification. The start button however had that crisscross patterns which are connected by the start button so there wasn’t a gold plate to solder for the start or select; HOWEVER, start and select can be traced to a soldering point for an easy connection. Additionally, in the middle of the face buttons and dpad, there’s one of the gold plates for the uniform ground.
The pad works great at this point EXCEPT for some reason, my start button, hit once, auto rapid fire start, hit again, turns that off. :? but i expect that i messed up the solder job, i was rather tired at 4AM.
I don’t have pictures at the moment, and i wasn’t sure if anybody else had confirmed the matcatz gamepad 200 for ps2 as a usable pad, but here, confirmation that THAT $10 works very nicely (and very very easily) for a padhack solder job.
Joshua Yuan
Austin, Texas’ 3rd Strike Documentarian
lol as a side note;
Please come support NeoEinstein’s @ Tek (beware the tek owner, he is a top tier douchebag i apologize if i offended any gay people here with previous choice of wordage) and then the fubarcade (tentative name) coming hopefully in May 2k8!
Gay slurs? Not a good way to introduce yourself.
thx for the mad catz arcade layout TPLOTPLO/ :woot:
I have a dreamcast PCB (generic with 6 face buttons). The analog nub on this controller is connected via wires to the PCB. Can I sever those wires without fear, or will I have to wire up resistors (like those PSOne dual shocks)?
have to do the resistors.
I have had some issues lately with Microsoft Xbox 360 wireless controller and Mad Catz stick.
First I?ll explain issue I?m getting with these hacks, Both pads have been fully wired up properly with each input having individual ground (same for directions)
Now while in dash-board everything works smoothly, the directions will work & same for the buttons.
Now if I play SF2 the controller will respond correctly with no problems, but if I play VF5
Everything is fine in the VF5 main menu but once I get to the character select screen I can only use directional inputs (no buttons) then once game play is in action the character goes into an instant block and does not come out.
Like as if block button is being held down constantly & only other input which works is pushing the down-direction which allows the character to crouch.
but nothing else?
has anyone came across this & found the problem why it does this?
This the mad catz - http://www.dignews.com/admin/screenshoot/mad_catz_360_arcade_stick.jpg
EDIT: Do these controllers have a common ground?
In case it helps others:
Most of the time, it doesn’t matter, but I wouldn’t go for less than 1k resistors, and without knowing anything specific, would suggest 5k’ish resistors (5k if you have them, 4.7k is what I usually have on hand.) If you want to match the original pot as well as possible, make each resistor half of the pot’s total resistance. To find the pots total resistance, either look on the side for markings that tell you, or use your multimeter to measure the resistance between the two OUTER legs.
Yup. One resistor from the middle to an outer leg, and the other from the middle to the other outer leg. Remember you’ll need two resistors for each pot, and each analog stick has two pots per.
Gonna copy this to the padhacking thread.
mad catz has. official wireless doesn’t. don’t know why your problem is occuring though.
^
Any got any solutions to above problem? really bugging me why its happening
I’ve hacked a MadCatz Live Arcade Stick board ( http://www.dignews.com/admin/screenshoot/mad_catz_360_arcade_stick.jpg ) recently and everything is in perfect order. They have common ground.
Still, as I decided not to use the analog triggers, I just left them there, not removing the pots and instead just put some hot glue on the moving piece to keep it in neutral (unpressed) position forever. The padhack works great on all X360 games I’ve tried: Hyper SF2, XBox1 SF3:3S, Senko No Ronde and the demo version of VF5, as well as in WIN XP.
I think Toodles hinted that maybe something happened if you removed the analog triggers/sticks and didn’t include the right resistors or… uhm, I’m not versed on the resistor subject, that’s why I usually leave everything untouched and cover it in hotglue instead, gladly sacrificing a bit of space to avoid hassle.
I left triggers on too. I chose to leave out the resistors also
I really can’t understand it at all, but funny thing is i got same $h*t happening on the xbox 360 wireless controller which is not common ground.
I’m really baffled by this, Mr Toodles you wouldn’t know why this is occurring would you?
Edit i solved the mad catz issue :D, now its on to the wireless pad that has issue it has to been one of the grounds which has an issue.
Hopefully i get positive results.
Got some PM’s about the Horipad 3 Turbo so I guess there might be others wondering about it as well.
Yes, it has a PS button. You can’t use it to start/boot your PS3 though (which you can do with the SixAxis since it runs on batteries).
Yes, it works with PS2 games, even sticks with DualShock PCB’s connected through a USB adapter will work without the need for an analog button/switch (tried this myself).
Yes, it’s easy to hack. I’d say it’s the easiest PCB to hack that I’ve ever come across (even easier than DualShocks). Just remember about the 4 grounds!
What about hacking the original Xbox pad? Not the S, the LARGE pads. Same as the S?
I have a question I was checking my Mad catz dreamcast controller and I got a reading on the multiplier for ever top button I have not Idea what that means thought I touched some random hole in the board with one side then I touched some buttons points on the other and it started beeping for the top points what does that mean
PS. I have the newer madcatz controller so that tutorial won’t help me this one…
http://www.darkravenwind.com/cdvision/madcatz2.htm
I read some guide and they didn’t answer one of my many questions. That being "If I install a PSX PCB to my Wii Fighting Hori Stick, does the Wii Cord stay as well as adding a PSX cord (referring to pluging them into the systems)?
Dencore, this thread addresses those issues: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=146124
I’m not sure if you can have a regular PSX PCB and a Hori Wii PCB inside the stick at the same time, but some extra steps would be involved in getting it to work if it’s possible.
Couple of questions regarding resistors and the ground. As for the resistors do I really need then? or can I just chain together the ground wire from switch to switch? Also one of my Xbox 1 controllers is some crappy interact brand and I cannot find the ground. Could I just place a screw in the case and wrap a gound wire to that?? Yeah I have no clue
