My friend, that is a gamestop brand controller. Model # BB-070 to be precise. The controller has 7 grounds just to let you know. I am about to upload a pic to joystick vault. Hope that helps.
-Tha Hindu
whats everyoneās opinion on using āwraping/kynarā wire for pad hacks ?? it should work fine but I am wondering if anyone has anything on it(toodles ??)
Works just fine. The hardest part about working with 30 gauge wire like that is stripping it. If you have a tool that will reliably strip 30 gauge, your life will be so much easier. Radio Shack has this wire wrapping tool that has a little stripper in it made for wrapping wire: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103243&cp=&pg=2&sr=1&origkw=wire+wrap&kw=wire+wrap&parentPage=search
If your mod involved a good amount of current, you probably want to use a thicker guage for the power lines, but for like <100mA, youāre fine. Its nigh impossible to crimp a QD onto it (or even find a QD rated for 30 guage crimping), so go with a thicker wire if youāre planning to crimp. Iāve used 30 guage wire on a number of projects, especially when soldering a VMU to an Agetec pcb in a project box, modding an internal VGA port to a DC, and all of my Wii mods. The Kynar insulation is by far the easiest of insulation to deal with.
Anyone know where I can find Xbox360 MadCatz Microcon (GameStop Mini) controllers?
They are no longer available on the GameStop/EB website.
Uploaded pics of the Gamestop brand controller Model #: BB-070 on joystick vault. This will help the people out who received the non common ground controllers from me. Thanks.
-Tha Hindu
THANKS!!! I appreciate the pics of those controllers. They surelly halp me a lot.
Iāve did some searching and it seems I couldnāt find so Iāll post here.
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I have a Quantum Fighter Pad for Dreamcast. Anyone know the sodering areas, +5V and GND are located.
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I have a Street Fighter Anniversary Collection Stick. Itās all hacked and working, Iād just want to know where the +5V and GND are located.
Reason I ask on these two is because I want to make a dual-PCB.
The +5v is usually carried by the red wire and the ground is sometimes carried by the black wire. It would help if you had a multi-meter. Go to Radioshack and buy one for $10.
Look for solder points near the above mentioned wires and test with your multimeter.
Its pretty easy. :tup:
Not sure if its on topic or not but figured I would throw it out there, If you need a ps1 pad call and ask gamestop. I just bought 6 of them there last night, 4 serires H and 2 series A and my total was $1.87
The guy told me alot of the stores still have alot of these controllers just sitting in the back and they canāt get rid of them. The first one cost 50cents, then all the others were only 25 for some reason and they have a 30 day garenteeā¦not a bad deal
? Why? All of the good information on how to actually do it is in here. TMOās picture could be nice, but there is a TON of information on how to do it in this thread.
2 quick questions:
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So has it ever been proven one way or another if the official DC pads lag on the triggers?
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Do the joystick and the buttons both get grounded to the same common ground place you scratch on the left side of the PCB by the Dpad? I hooked up the grounds for the stick to the grounding from the down part of the D-pad, and all of the buttons chained to the ground part on the side of the stick. When I finished hooking it up this way, up and down worked, left and right did not. Also jab and short didnāt work. I had to wire individual grounds for those inputsā¦the rest of the inputs worked fineā¦? WTF?
Apparently they had alot of them sitting in there warehouses so after christmas they did a big buy 2 get 1 free controller sell and shipped alot of them out to the stores.
Liquid Tape
So I was at Wal-Mart spending my $50 Gift Card, and I noticed this stuff called āPerfomix Brand Liquid Tape ;Electrical; - Spray-on Insulation Coatingā
I used it on the lastest psx-digital pad I hacked. I got the spray can-version, but I think next time Iāll be using the brush-on kind.
I applied it directly after soldering. Because I got the spray-kind, it basically turned the top of my PCB black. I followed up after it dried with the glue gun to reinforce it. After the glue dried I sprayed it again :looney:
It seems to be more re-enforced than usual. Iāve definitely got no worries. Plus it made my PCB black, and thatās cool. Yes it still works of course.
Conclusion: Probably useless, but it looks cool. In the very least, you can fully-insulate the PCB with ease.
Some pics would be nice :bgrin:
I have a pad that was hacked for me some time ago but the inputs seem to be off somehow. It is a 3rd party 360 pad neo se i think. When i move stick right it goes left, up moves it down, and so on the triggers were not wired up but they were removed does this have any thing to do with it? The wired buttons are a b x y rb lb.
If its the one I did, the trigger mechanism was removed, but I thought I left the potentiometers on. Are you sure you connected the QDās to the correct switches?
(Stickers rock BTW. Dont know where to put them yet.)
i followed your labels correctly maybe just got a bad stick i dont know. I will check the qdās again. Glad you like the stickers they are in very limited supply. and only a few people have them.
Well it seems that the stick is only reversed on the 360 side of things but when i got to play SFAC it performs as it should i will pick up a few other xbox games to see if it is only an issue with the 360 maybe it just the really shitty pad that i used oh well it works for what i need it to work for.
Quick question, is there anything inherently wrong with connecting the common button grounds of 1p and 2p? I was thinking of a way to work on counter hit training in A3, and thought itād be alot easier if I could have one button connected to say, both 1p and 2p jab. It seems to me that it would work fine, but I donāt want to blow a port out by making an oversight.
As long as they are true grounds coming from the ground pin of the console, no problem, thatās fine. If you plug them both into the console, and take a multimeter to them both, the ground line should already be connected inside the console; they should show a resistance near 0.
i have [another] sega hss-0130 that i plan on padhacking with a 360pcb. anything that i need to know before i rig it up? hss-0130 has LS-32 and is my bigger concern. i also am going to have to make 4 new holes, one for back one for guide for p1 and p2. back button will be used for coin on mame. i dont know if guide gets a trigger on pc, but would be nice to use 1 for tab command and 1 for esc command on mame?
hope to see you all on kaillera playing sfiii3, kof98, and kof2003