*The "padhacking" thread*

[Farpenoodle]

Looking at the top of that PCB it looks like the directions are also wired to the common ground. Wouldn’t it be easier to just connect one of the grounds to the JLF?

[speedsterharry]

One idea that came to mind this morning regarding the connection of a pad PCB to a common-ground stick like the sanwa JLF or Seimitsu LS 32-01 (it’s impressive how free can be your brain when going for shopping !):

Connect the stick directions to the buttons of the PCB where there’s a common ground and wire the buttons to the directions/remaining buttons of the PCB. Of course, this won’t work well for using with a console but should be adequate in the case of emulation with MAME, as you can reconfigure the keys/buttons as you like. Plus you won’t need to butcher the sanwa JLF PCB or add extra electronic circuitry, like Toodles’.

[System_1]

Great thread, good info and good read. Just finish building my arcade sticks, hacked 2 USB gamepad, and 2 generic PS1 controllers. Everything works great. The info about generic gamepad not as compatible with gaming adapter is correct, out of the 10 generic controllers I bought; roughly 1/3 was compatible with my gaming adapter.

[KabaL]

^You used 2 pcb’s in a single control panel? (I mean, totally you had 4 pcb’s inside your arcade box, right?) It is just rewiring to the other pcb, or this has another science… ?

[foxfire]

I’m trying to build a sanwa part custom and I had a few questions.

1. I’ve built sticks before, but with Happs parts (competition stick.) I have noticed, and others who have used my stick have also said that there seems to be a slight amount of lag when used. It is a cheapo madcatz ps1 dualshock pad being used in tekken 5.0 on a ps2. No adapaters or anything. I’m not sure why there is lag, but I don’t want it to happen again on the new stick. One notable: I ran all the grounds to a strip which are daisy chained together having one wire going to the circuitry.

2. I’m a little confused regarding sanwa stick parts. I have read that JLF-TP-8YT is the way to go, but I also noticed at the beginning of this sticky that the 3.3v may be needed for this particular stick?

3. Also, lizardlick has a JLF-TP-8T listed… is this the same stick as JLF-TP-8YT?

4. One more… what is the difference between JLF and JLW? Is it just that JLF doesn’t make the clickie sounds from the microswitches?

Thank you so much, I’m kind of a perfectionist, so I want to make sure I get exactly what I’m imagining in my head.

[TingBoy]

I’m trying to build a sanwa part custom and I had a few questions.

1. I’ve built sticks before, but with Happs parts (competition stick.) I have noticed, and others who have used my stick have also said that there seems to be a slight amount of lag when used. It is a cheapo madcatz ps1 dualshock pad being used in tekken 5.0 on a ps2. No adapaters or anything. I’m not sure why there is lag, but I don’t want it to happen again on the new stick. One notable: I ran all the grounds to a strip which are daisy chained together having one wire going to the circuitry.

2. I’m a little confused regarding sanwa stick parts. I have read that JLF-TP-8YT is the way to go, but I also noticed at the beginning of this sticky that the 3.3v may be needed for this particular stick?

3. Also, lizardlick has a JLF-TP-8T listed… is this the same stick as JLF-TP-8YT?

4. One more… what is the difference between JLF and JLW? Is it just that JLF doesn’t make the clickie sounds from the microswitches?

Thank you so much, I’m kind of a perfectionist, so I want to make sure I get exactly what I’m imagining in my head.

1. Maybe it’s the pad, but I can’t say for sure since I’ve never used that pad before. Just try to find a PSX Dual Shock 1 pad. You won’t have any problems with one of those. You can daisy chain the ground without any problems as well.

2. And all Playstation pads give out 3.3v. Don’t worry about the voltage. Just wire it up as if you were wiring up a Happ stick, so just grab a ground from the pad somewhere.

3. Yes and no. It is essentially the same stick. You just need to rotate the PCB 45 degrees to the right.

4. The differences between the JLW and JLF escape me at the moment, but JLFs are what you usually find in Japanese arcade cabinets. They also come with a 5-pin connector, so you don’t have to crimp disconnects for each switch.

[speedsterharry]

4. The differences between the JLW and JLF escape me at the moment, but JLFs are what you usually find in Japanese arcade cabinets. They also come with a 5-pin connector, so you don’t have to crimp disconnects for each switch.

Two differences come to mind:

The JLF has the pin-pin connector while the JLW has direct microswitch connections.
The restrictors that can be adjusted to each stick is different. The JLW accepts the round and a square, while the JLF has a square and an octogonal.

[System_1]

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=132043&highlight=elecom

Remove the button pcb and wire straight to the solder points on the smaller pcb.

If you look closely at the solder points where the bigger button pcb joins the smaller one, it’s labelled L1, L2, R1, R2, BU(triangle), BD(X), BR(circle), BL(square).

In terms of numbering for standard SF games layout it turns out as 6,7,8 top row, 2,3,4 bottom row.

You’ll need to break the wiring on top of the jlf pcb first, I did this with a file. Then you can just solder the wires from the controller pcb to the jlf pcb.

Thanks alot, I’m justing waiting for my parts from Lizardlick till i can get started!

[foxfire]

Thanks for the responses! One more quick question. I noticed on gremlinsolutions their “Sanwa Ball Top Joystick JLF-TP-8YT” model description says that the joystick is silent:

These sticks give a rapid yet smooth response during gameplay and are very quiet. If you want to play your games with ultimate control, these are the joysticks for you. Each joystick comes complete with a 5 pin cable for easy connection, a base plate attached and a ball top handle.

Handles are available in a choice of colours - choose from red, black, green, yellow, pink, orange, Vermillion, violet, white, dark blue or light blue.

These are ideal for people that don’t like the clicky sound of microswitches that usually come with most standard joysticks. Ideal as replacement sticks for old cabinets or for new arcade cabinet builds.

Is this true? Looking at my friend’s custom, the joystick looks the same as the picture that gremlinsolutions has, but it has clicky microswitches in it. However, there is no model number anywhere on the stick that I can find. It would be awesome if there was a quiet version of this stick.

[Toodles]

It would be awesome if there was a quiet version of this stick.

If you can replace the microswitches with quieter ones (which I’ve been unable to find on Cherry’s site) or mod the existing switches to be quieter ( http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=72400. ) you can seriously reduce the clicky in any stick.

For the clicky to be 100% gone (even the inaudible click) youd need a Flash board which are very spendy, if you can find someone to sell you one, because they were stopped manufacturing like 4 years ago.

[speedsterharry]

Toodles: do you know where special replacement microswitches can be bought for the Sanwa JLF PCB ? The ones with legs at an angle with respect to the body, unlike the more common industrial ones which have “straight” legs. On the few web sites I know selling arcade parts, they’re not referenced. (yes i’m aware I could completely bypass the sanwa PCB and provide direct microswitch connection).

[Toodles]

No idea. I can’t find anything in Omron’s catalog that matches, but maybe Im blind. See what you can find: http://www.omron.com/products/index.html

[speedsterharry]

I checked the catalogs from Europe and USA and they aren’t there either
This made me wonder if the switches from the sanwa are from Omron or someone else … and they are from Omron. I’m puzzled.

This may mean I’ll have to hack an industrial switch into the PCB when/if my stick gets tired one day.

[deadfrog]

For the record, I hacked the older Madcatz Xbox360 pad a few months back and we had all the buttons and triggers working like a charm.

We removed the trigger assemblies but left the little trigger pots on there. We just glued the pots so they would stay still in the correct position.

I wouldnt think the new Microcon controller would be any harder. I will know soon enough.

A new thread with a little info I hadn’t seen in here: Hacking official 360 pad RT + LT.

It’s pretty hard to miss right now, being on top of Tech Talk’s 1st page right now, but I figured a link in here might be handy for anyone else down the road…

[Dipez]

sorry to ask a stupid question but does anybody have a diagram for the xbox 360 wired controller that has the Back button listed. all the ones i have found are ?? on the back button

[Hellfromabove]

Hey guys, just wanted to say that I’ll be ul a pic of the BB-070 to joystick vault later today. The thing has 7 grounds altogether!!! I had to wire up 20 wires for the directions + st/ sel/ guide + 6 action buttons.

-Tha Hindu

[final_cut]

Wow, I take a peek in this thread and the first thing I see is a link to one of my images on someone elses site. And they have the balls to claim copyright. Gee thanks.

-Bean

which image is this?

[Dipez]

has anybody ever worked with a xbox360 pad from gamestop it looks like a madcatz pcb but isnt exact. i was just wondering if anybody have a common and signal mapping for it

http://www.gamestop.com/product.asp?product_id=802218 looks like this controller but says Gamestop instead of MadCatz

[hecz]

yo toddles I got the xbox 360 microcon and I wanted to add it(merge arcade pcb and the 360 pcb) to my sfac arcade stick but some buttons are activating I had my dreamcast controller there with the arcade daisy chained and everything was fine. Can u help?

sorry for my bad english

[Dai]

I’ve just bought this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Dai_/DSC03072.jpg

Here in Mexico is very common to found and sligthly cheaper than the MS original (it cost about $350/$399 vs. $450/$500+ varies from store or retailer) also this is the board it has:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/Dai_/DSC03073.jpg

I’ve been testing some with my multimeter and it has no common GND, except for 2 pairs of buttons (Y+X and A+B) it seems that it’s going to be wired in pairs.

Hope it helps someone.