*The "padhacking" thread*

Hmmm, is it also possible to use a non Dualshock psONE pad for hacking? I mean, will this work with all the adapters or does it have to be a dualshock one?

My apologies if I misunderstood.

This pad: http://www.gamestop.com/common/images/lbox/802218b.jpg
Is NOT the one I’ve tested. The layout is similar, but definitely different from the rebranded Microcon; there are no freaky grips on the side like the rebranded Microcon. I have no way of knowing if it uses a common ground or not, so it’d be a crapshoot.

This pad: http://www.madcatz.com/Default.asp?Page=253&CategoryImg=Xbox_360_Controllers
This one has gotta be a common ground like the Gamestop Micro one I tore apart. The make of the controller is identical; it likely comes from the same factory as the one I tore apart, and just has different packaging for the ones going to GameStop. Given the choices, this is the one I would get. Note: They come in different colors. I doubt they changes the PCB for that, so don’t be afraid if the only one they have is green or something. The one I tore apart was white with grey grips, just like the photo above.

Looking at GameStop’s site, I can’t find the one we’ve been recommending. Someone will need to take one for the team and tear open one of the new versions.

The MadCatz ā€˜arcade stick’, the one made to look like a redone Atari joystick:
http://www.dignews.com/review.php?story_id=21521
Check your local Target’s, Best Buy, Circuit City, everywhere. They’ve been discontinued, so if they have them, they’ll be on clearance for cheap. I got mine from Circuit City for $20. It has a common ground, and of course the three free game cards (Frogger, Time Pilot, and Astro Pop). Keep an eye out for these as well, and grab it if you find it for $20 or less. You shouldn’t have to pay more than $20 for it but only pay $30 for it if desperate, and never more than that.

On all of the PCB’s listed here, the triggers are kind of an unknown. I know that somehow they can be made to work, but my first idea doesn’t seem to work in practice. If you’re okay for the time being with the d-pad, main buttons, and RB and LB, then your covered. If you have to have the triggers as well, it may be a bit before you have complete directions on how to wire them.

i agree that the madcatz arcade stick is the easiest one to find, its just that the pcb is friggin huge. it’s 4.5 in wide by 3.5 in length not even counting the wire that extends the headset port or how tall the analog stick housing is.

i’ve never seen the rebranded microcon online but i’ve found them in stores but they are really scarce with what looks like no restocks happening since all my gamestops are full of used official 360 pads.

i’ve seen the original madcatz microcon on some ebay stores but they go for $30 plus shipping. i have no idea if they are truly common ground since the gamestop ones say ver. b on the pcb and would be sad to buy one of these and have it say ver. a and not have a common ground. but from the outside they look exactly the same.

as far as different colors on the gamestop rebranded microcons, i can confirm that color probably doesn’t matter since i’ve hacked more than 4 different colors. (clear green, clear blue, white, black)

Hi everyone, total n00b here asking for advice. (Bet that never happens…) I’ll try not to make myself sound too stupid!

I’m trying to make an amazing Christmas present for my boyfriend, and I need help.

I’ve bought the Hori fighting stick (with the ugly horrible Virtua Fighter stickers), and I’ve got a spare wireless controller for the 360. I need to know if there’s any way of making the fighting stick wireless? I have a soldering iron etc, but I’m not sure which way to approach it. Should I be trying to connect the buttons to the tiny wireless pad’s circuit board? In which case I’d have to make a new compartment for batteries! Or is there a way of just taking the wireless transmitter and hooking up the big circuit to it?

Any suggestions welcomed. I did read the first few pages of this thread and try searching, but didn’t find any advice that seemed to fit.

At the very least, I’ve swapped the ugly power button for the proper shiny xBox one, and I’ll make the exterior look a lot nicer, and buy a new ball for the joystick. But before I mess around with circuits I thought I should ask the experts!

i did something similar for a customer. (sorry wiring is kind of messy) but you get the idea as to how much space you have inside the case with a wireless ms pcb.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n5/akuma001/IMG_0573.jpg

for the battery pack i used an external one and extended the wiring from the pcb to the battery pack. (kinda hard to tell in the pic but its the black thing on top)

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n5/akuma001/IMG_0561.jpg

you will need a t8 security bit to open the wireless ms pad.

for the mod i made, you have to remove the bottom to sync with the console since i didn’t make a button for it.

i’d also suggest using a wireless headset.

Oh wow, you just looked into my imagination and proved it was possible! Almost right down to the picture I intend to put on the front…

I’ll leave the buttons the same so he can tell which one’s which (from reading these forums I’m guessing the purists will be screaming about the poor quality, but I can always upgrade them for him later). I hadn’t considered the headset.

I’ve managed to get inside the wireless controller - broke off the security posts and used a standard T8 torx.

I haven’t bought wiring yet. What sort do I need? I intend to go to my local Maplin, but can use the internet if necessary! Last question - I want to buy a prettier ball for the joystick, because it’s a yucky green. What brand/model do I need? Again, planning to use the internet.

Thank you so much for reassuring me that this is possible!

Sanwa LB-35, Seimitsu LB-35, Seimitsu LB-39 (bubbletop), or Sanwa LB-30N (bat top; comes with an adapter) should all fit on the stick.

ok toodles well apology acepted but i pretty mcuh dont think we coul dever be friends now IRL frown

Naw seriously dude, no need for any apologies and thanks a TON for the reply. I appreciate it like soooooo much. :smile:
(also akuma001!)

Ohhhh man, I don’t wanna come across as one of those look-a-girl-on-the-internet morons but ahahaha this right here proves you are. :rofl:

You might want to double-check with someone else who actually LIVES in the UK, but I believe Gremlin Solutions is probably your best bet for getting the stuff TingBoy mentioned. (Sanwa page, Seimitsu page)

do dc pcbs have the 5 volts needed for 360s?

Dammit, my cover is blown! I am a girl-on-the-internet, it’s true. I’ll get back to the kitchen…

And yep, I was going to use Gremlin, and I’m glad to hear a bubbletop will fit. I’m actually starting to think I’m going to be able to do this, but I might keep asking daft questions on here every time I hit a problem!

And take those shoes off, missy!

No reason for you to be different from anyone else around here.

Honestly, it’d be the same amount of work, or possibly less, for you to use the wireless PCB in another stick, instead of trying to retrofit the DOA4 stick. You’d for certain have to buy the new joystick and buttons, as well as whatever stick case you can find. Find a Hori Real Arcade Pro, gut it, figure out how and where you want to put the batteries, and wire in the wireless board. Youd have tons (UK, my bad, ā€˜tonnes’) more room to put the PCB in, and it wouldn’t leave you in the dreaded position of having accidentally destroyed both the wireless controller and wired stick.

But, it can be done. Good luck.

If this is already in this thread I appologize, I tried to read through it but most of it made little to no sense to me…

If I am looking to make a stick for ps2 do I use a ps1 controller like shown in the first post? And if so where are you all getting ps1 controllers. I did not see any on gamestop.com and I am not a big fan of ebay. Any info would be much appreciated, thanks

I think I’ll keep going with this plan, even if it’s not what the experts would recommend! I feel like I know what I need to do. I’ve spent ages reading threads, and I understand what daisychaining is, and how to scrape off the black stuff to solder onto.

But I have one nagging doubt… I’ve read that with the wireless 360 pad, I’ll need to put a resistor on every wire. Is that right? What sort of resistor? How many ohms, or am I thinking of the wrong sort?

for any official microsoft xbox 360 pad hack you can’t daisy chain the grounds as it is. for each input you will have 2 wires running from each pcb input to your button/joystick direction microswitch. one will be the + and the other will be the ground.

as far as the resistors you need to put a 10k on each trigger (or at least that is what i did to make them work). you don’t need them for every other input unless you plan on making the pcb common ground (something that is alot more work for nothing considering you plan on using the stock joystick on the hori)

I’m looking for directions on how I would go about soldering a Dual shock one to a fighting stick three.

If you live near a bigish city, I recommend local flea markets. There are almost always a couple used video game dealers. I usually can find used Sony PS1/one DS pads for $5-10.

Pawn shops are worth trying, or maybe hobby stores (the ones with comic books and dice and collectible card games).

Could anyone who has hacked or is familiar with the SONY series H controller tell me if the analog joysticks are needed or if i can cut them off?

here are pictures of the pcb in question:

Explore Den Zen

Explore Den Zen

No matter what controller, no matter for what console, the answer is the same for everybody: If you have to ask, don’t do it.

Does anybody have the wiring diagrams for any of the controllers listed in these pictures. Of course I’m talking about everything but the Microns. Thank you for the diagram on those.

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/7065/img0156jw3.th.jpg

-Tha Hindu