Yeah… L3… took me a wile to figure that out… I cant change…
oh well maybe if I do the conections and make it work, maybe will just do it fine…
Yeah… L3… took me a wile to figure that out… I cant change…
oh well maybe if I do the conections and make it work, maybe will just do it fine…
I think Shin-chan’s controller has the alternating style for the ribbon terminal. I found this in my PS2 A-series, cause mine just had this piece of plastic foam attached to the casing of the controller holding down the ribbon terminal plastic. Like I said, where the ribbon terminal usually is for the solderless hacks has that alternating positioning for the pins, I think maybe you can still solder a controller like that?
Now I see whats my problem..... u know..... in the pick, there is this... white thing where u put the wires... mine just don
t have it from the start. Its like the main plastic board (just the conector) is just on top of the main board, and when u close the controler I think it stays there perfectly...... .. mmm..... it
s hard to undestand?
(accidental double post)
help needed
While fixing a stick, I accidently cut off the cable attaching the analog joysticks to the series H dual shock pcb but notice everything still works, will i encounter problems further down the road?
I’m confused… by your description.
The board that has the two analog sticks on the H-Series has two cables coming off it: a ribbon cable that attaches to the PCB with the contacts most people solder, and the cable that goes out to the PS2. I image that you can cut the ribbon cable off if you solder the same connections directly to the smaller board, but most people don’t do that as the contacts are smaller. If you soldered to the larger board then cut that cable, the pad wouldn’t work obviously. If you cut the other cable, the one that connects to the PS2, it wouldn’t work obviously.
The Analog pads aren’t connected with cables, they are soldered directly to the board.
Are you sure you didn’t just cut off the rumble motors? That’s fine.
Anyone know something about this Arcade stick is The PCB Hackable. does it works with Adapters?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=190178574040&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=009#ebayphotohosting
Has anyone opened up a Pelican TSZ 360 pad yet? Is it common ground or even hackable?
I just tin the wire, heat up the copper, then press the tinned wire onto the copper with the iron.
Is it better to remove the analogues from the PS one Dualshock pad or leave em in place?
IE desolder them or cut them off?
if removing , can someone mark the desolder points or give pointers on disassembly thanks
Edit, nevermind
It is a lot easier to just leave them connected. If I recall correctly, I think I remember a post by Toodles explaining how to remove them, but you resolder some resisters in place.
The plastic thumb grips pull off easily though.
Shamelessly dragging up a couple of my questions that were lost a page ago…
I’ve read that the Gamestop 360 controller is the best one to hack. Why? Common ground? Big easy solder points?
If I buy a Madcatz Microcon 360 controller, I’m getting the exact same thing as the Gamestop one, right?
Thanks in advance for any and all help!
can you wire a 360 pad, into a sanwa joystick? i heard you cant… but as i see the first page on this thread… where it has a picture of a ps2 controller into a sawna…
i dont see why you couldnt??
so can you? and if you cant why?
You cannot easily wire a JLF to a stock X360 pad as it doesn’t use a universal ground. The madcatz pads everyone is hacking work fine though.
i would like to use a wirless microsoft 360 pad… is there any way to? and does any one have a pic. of where to connect it to?
I’m working on my dual-pcb PSOne/360 stick, and some more questions.
I soldered all my points on both pads, but like a dummy I severed the controller cords BEFORE I finished my soldering. So, I broke out the multimeter and checked all of the following:
checked for resistance between + and ground contacts on each pad button (to ensure I had not solder bridged any contacts)
checked for no resistance between the + contact and copper wire (to ensure a good solder job on the points)
spot check for no resistance between various ground contacts and the ground wire (ensure common ground and solid ground wire solder.
This should ensure that everything is good, correct?
Next, I’m almost read to start soldering the controller cables to the DB9 connector. Not surprisingly, I guess, the actual copper wires are incredibly tiny. Are there any techniques to thicken up the wires before soldering? I’m concerned about my ability to strip and solder something that thin.
Also, they have the white fibers inside of each individual wire sheath. If a piece of that fiber gets into the solder point along with the copper strand, it should not cause any serious issues, correct?
Not easily. As has been said, Microsoft brand controllers don’t have common grounds.
I got a question.
Would the old school Digital PSX pad ie. one of these (http://content.answers.com/main/content/wp/en/thumb/8/85/180px-Playstation_Controller.jpg) work with a PS2/PS3 Adaptors for the PS3 and the other console adaptors? I know the PSX Digital pads work on the PS2.
Or do I have to get one of those PSOne Dualshock Analog ones like this for it to work?
http://www.nabcm.com/UploadFiles/200781915291972.jpg
or will one of these older PSX Dualshock Analog also work?
http://www.selectorweb.com/images/games_ps1.jpg
I want a PCB that will work with most of the adaptors for all 3 PlayStation consoles, and any adaptor for other consoles like the DC and XBOX/XBOX360. From my past experiences the 3rd party ones sometimes have lag issues with some adaptors, especially to PC.
Or does the PS3 look for an Analog through the adaptor? that messes up the digital pads from working with the PS3 even with the adaptor?
I have a gameshack that I go by that has quite a decent number of these 2 types of PSX analog pads, and I have extra PSX digital pads that I think are the H series which I can use to hack that I bought a few years back.
No the Pelican is not common ground. However if you connect wires from both sides of the pads to the buttons and stick switches it is hackable. You don’t even need to scrape off any black stuff. Keep in mind that the Sanwa JLF and Seimitsu LS-32-01 joysticks look for a common ground unless you modify them.
TTFN
Kaytrim