i switched the colors of the wires since i took off the original, i just soldered them on,
and on my psone Dualshock pcb, i scraped it to reveal the copper and i just soldered the points wher they need to be.
you gotta figure out which one is the ground wire and which one is for the buttons. if you look @ the microswitch the part where its labeled “C” is the wire for the buttons, and the other one sticking horizontaly out of the microswitch would be your ground wire.
i had a different sanwa joystick to put on there. but it wudnt fit in there…the stick shaft was too long…so i just used the original microswitches already in there.
its fairly easy tho. just keep the switches and wire the grounds together. you shud be fine.
thx for the help. I just went with the 100ohm resistors, did some quick test work, and it works out fine, not as bring as i thought it would be though. Also tried without resistor, and the light is brighter, but gets super hot. Might just have to add a few more leds.
Pins 14 on both chips are connected to the +5 from the controller. Its what powers the chips, and they wont work without power. Ditto for ground on pins 7.
Pins 5, 6, 12 and 13 on the 4066N are the inputs. If an input is high, it connects that gate’s two output lines.
The other extra ground lines on the 74hc04 are just permanently setting those gates to have a low input. Leaving them floating is considered a bad idea; nailing them down helps make sure it doesnt freak out.
The datasheet for the 4066n will tell you that it will connect the two output lines together if the input is high. If the input is low, it won’t connect them. A common ground setup is high when the button is not pressed, and low when it is pressed; the opposite of what we want. Read this to understand it a bit more: http://www.instructables.com/id/SWTO9POF54HJ3KP/
So, we can’t just connect the button line to the 4066N; we need to flip flop it around first. Make it give us a high when its low, and visa versa. That’s exactly what the 74hc04 does. Button to the inverter to switch it around, inverter to the 4066n to connect the two output lines when we want. That’s it.
Ahh… so even if I dont need the 5v VCC on the buttons, I still need to power the chips… that makes sense…
So then doing what I want to do, would be easy with 3 chip arrays, right?
1 ground for XYAB with chips
1 ground for LB/RB/LT/RT with chips (I heard there is something to do with resistors for this?)
1 ground for UDLR, no chips needed (madcatz controller)
1 ground for back/start/guide with chips
kk toodles i just wanna make sure i understand what is going on real quick with the chips.
since the 360 controller is active low we need to invert every signal and put it into the 74HC14. now obviously we’re going to need 3 74HC14s becuase there are 15 buttons (including D pad, start, select and so on.)
now i’m assuming that since the ground for these chips will be the any one of the controller’s ground; our common ground dillema will be resolved (the schmit triggers would have a ground to use as a reference.)
all of the chips you laid out are inverters and schmit triggers so if there is more to it than that please clarify.
nope. The buttons on your stick (ok, the pins in the project box that will eventually to go the buttons in the stick) will be pulled high and use a common ground so it’s an active low. The analog switch IC (74HC4066n) will connect the two pads of the analog button together, so you wont have to care about anything on the MS pad; switch connects the wires together. No low, no high, no nothing, just connects them together. Because the analog switch IC is active high, you need to inverter to change the lines from the active low buttons. You can use a 74hc04, or (my preferred way, to help with debouncing issues) the shmitt trigger 74HC14 to do the inverting.
If you’re cool with sampling, just sample a bunch of MAX4611’s from maxim-ic.com. It’s pin compatible with the 4066n, does the same thing, and is active low, meaning you wont need an inverter.
EDIT: Dont forget, you’re going to need to pull the lines going to the buttons with a pull up resistor yourself.
GND---(button)-+--inverter gate----analog switch gate--+--top half of the pad on the 360 controller
| +----bottom half of pad on 360 controller
+----pullup resistor----+5v
I keep saying the same thing in different ways, over and over…
okay, i think i’m on the verge of understanding this completly, so i whipped this up in mspaint to make sure, i tried to draw it according to what you explained in your last post
Anyway, I just brought a wico P360 base off of ebay. I was wondering if I can wire it to a SFAC pad, and if so how. Or would I be better off with a Dual Shock?
There are a lot of wiring guides for different Playstation PCBs and optical sticks earlier in the thread. I’m not sure if the wico p360 differs from the happ ones though.
I’m looking at the data sheet for the MAX4611 and its all making sense all of a sudden… I would assume that with a 4610, I would still need an inverter, but because with the 4611, ON is Low and OFF is High, its not needed anymore…
So close, except the resistors are wrong. You’re connecting the button to the inverter input with a resistor. Instead, connect it with a normal wire, and connect that wire through a resistor to +5v
Edit:whoops. Spoke too soon. Switch out that 74HC04 with a 74HC4066N. You’re still missing the analog switch, and the analog switch is the whole point of this board.
hi, im modding a stick i picked up for just 10. bad thing, the buttons worked exactly like regular pad buttons. so i have no idea where to solder the sanwa buttons on the pcb + the location of the ground.
here is an image of the pcb. thank u
Almost perfect. You have the inputs (pin 5, 6, 12, and 13) connected to the buttons through a 4.7k resistor. Instead, connect them directly to the buttons, and also connect it to VCC through the 4.7k resistor. Otherwise it sounds like you got it. http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/mar97/basics.html
^^ explains pull up resistors.
Any of the DIP versions of the MAX4611 will work fine, on any breadboard or prototyping board. Just make sure its a DIP package. The CPE/EPE is the heat tolerance, and the + or not shows if it is lead free or not. Take your pick or just sample them all; as long as its the DIP package, you’re set.
The micro-switches. Also which wires on the actual stick represent up and down. I’m talking about the red yellow and white wires which are already threre
