Hi
Just got some tech questions.
I am thinking about replacing my sticks buttons with translucent buttons and would like to have LEDs underneath them. The plan is to have 3 LED lights under the buttons but I am unsure of how to wire them up.
From reading on a web, I think it should be
Solder 5v > 100 ohm resistor > 3 parallel LEDs > GND
Firstly would this be correct?
More info, the LEDs are 3.3v if that helps
5v - 3.3v / 0.02mA = 85ohms, round up = get the 100ohms resistor
Someone else can correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you need a 28-1/3Kohms(or the closest you can find) resistor instead of a 100ohms.
One of the mistakes you makes is that the currect is in milliamps so its 0.00002amps.
So you have one resistor in series with a set of 3 parallel LEDās which we can treat as resistors. We know the LEDs are rated at 3.3V and 0.02mA, therefore their resistance is going to be 165Kohms.
To make the problem easier you want to get the whole thing into a series circuit so we can combine the resistance of the parallel LEDs into one by using the rule of resistance for parallel circuits, where R(total) = 1/((1/R(1))+(1/R(2))+1/(R(n)))
Doing this we get that the total resistance for the LEDs in parallel is 55Kohms.
So now we need to use that information along with the starting voltage and the voltage drop over the LED to figure out the resistance needed for the other resistor. The easiest way is to use the relationship V(n)=V(total)*((R(n))/(R(total)))
So this gives us a total resistance of 83-1/3Kohms, then subtracting the 55Kohms from the LEDs we get 28-1/3Kohms as a value for the resistor.
This value will give you 0.06mA with a voltage drop of 1.7v through the 28-1/3Kohm resistor and 0.02mA with a voltage drop of 3.3v through each of the LEDs.
PSone Series H DS pad
is it okay to cut the wires linked to the 2 big things that make it rumble? or wud it screw up the pad?
and do i need to keep the analog pcb on it too? and if i do need to keep the analog chip, is it easy to take the analogs off?
also, do i need to keep the L1 L2 and R1 R2 extra flaps linked on the pcb?
You know, I never really understood the idea of ā3.3vā LEDs. They have a certain voltage drop, that will cause the voltage after them to be less by the drop amount, just like normal diodes, but that drop is the same no matter what the input voltage is. Iāll assume that the drop on the LEDs you mention is 1.7volts, and you want them to have 20mA.
First of all, wiring them in parallel will be much easier than wiring them serially. Because the voltage to each one of the LEDs will be different because of the voltage lost to the LED before it, and yet the current will be the same, the LEDs will have different brightnesses. Wiring them in parallel will require more resistors, but will make sure you have even brightness and easier to calculate values.
I setup a 100 Ohm resistor with 3 LEDs (cheapy red 5mm red LEDs, 1.6v drop) and they were damn dim, and if you knew to look, you could see some were slightly brighter than others. I tried to check the amperage, but I guess I blew the fuse in my multimeter on some other previous dumbass maneuver. Sorry.
You can check the voltage drop with a good multimeter, just like any diode. Your math is right for a single LED, assuming the resistor is before the LED; ((Vsuppy- LEDVdrop)/Resistance = amps), and you seem to want 20 mA for the LED.
((5v-1.6v)/X=0.02A)
3.4v/X=0.02
3.4v=0.02X
3.4v/0.02=X
170=X
So a +5v-----170 Ohm Resistor----1.6v LEDāGND
is a 20mA bright LED.
I think (Iād know for sure if I could check the amps, but cant, sorry) that the power is being distributed over all three LEDs, causing them to be powered by around 6mA each; definitely not bright enough.
So wiring parallel is more work and more resistors, but evenly lit LEDs. Wiring serial is less work and less resistors, but varies the LED brightness. It also makes them ALL go dead if one dies, unlike parallel. Go parallel. You already got the math down to figure out the resistors needed.
dudeā¦thanx a bunchā¦ helps so much
i think i mite be able to finish my FS3 tonightā¦if not then tommorrow for sure, so daym excited
can someone post up some pics of a ps1 dualshock and a ps1 pad, i donāt know the difference between the twoā¦ ā¦ :sad:
The DS has analog sticks.
so which on is the best one for P360 joysticks?
is it the ps1 dual shock?
and what is the voltage on that ps1 dual shock 3.3v or 5v?
thanks again to all
w00t thnx for everyone that helped me.
im halfway done with modding my new Hori Fighting Stick 3 to be compatible with the ps2 using the Dualshock H series.
all i need to do is solder the wires and hook everything up. =]
btwā¦it wudnt matter if i didnt wire the L1 and L2 buttons right?
im planning on getting a Dreamcast converter for it to play MvC2. after i mod it, will it work on my dreamcast?
Heyā¦ I got a question about hacking 360 controllersā¦ do they use universal grounds?
I want to doā¦
1 Ground to X Y A B LT LB RT RB
1 Ground to Select Start RROL
1 Ground to U D L R
Is thi possible?
You donāt need to wire them if you arenāt going to use them. I assume you are using R1,R2 for heavy punch and heavy kick? Well then you dont need to wire them.:wonder:
Yes it will work on your DC with a converter. Its just the guts of a PS1 pad wired to the stick, so it will work perfectly
xlidokrazeex,
maybe wiring the L1 and L2 buttons wouldnāt be a bad idea, as I already encountered PSX->DC converters that interpreted R1 and R2 for Dreamcasrt R and L1 and L2 for Dreamcast L. Some converters are smartly configured to have R1 or L2 = DC R while L1 or R2 = DC L, which nicely solves the problem. But if you enounter a converter of the first type, youāll be glad you have a wire connected to the L1 and/or L2 buttons as well. 
Ah i see. thanks for correcting me!
Kinda. Its not directly possible to wire the first group that way; the maxtrix setup being using makes it very difficult, and impossible without creating a separate board. Some third party controllers, like the MadCatz, does use a common line for the D-Pad, and although I dont know specifically which one does, there might be a pad that uses a common line for start, back and guide. There are none that use a common for the play buttons though.
Search this thread for posts by me, perhaps searching for ā4066ā or āMAX4611ā for information on how to force them to use common grounds.
So then what wires CAN be daisy chained together? The D-Pad uses a common ground on the Madcats controllerā¦ What about other buttons? Do any of the other buttons share a common ground? Even if its only to one other button?
I would like to have as few grounds as possibleā¦
Toodlesā¦ I am willing to wire a few chips together in order to make it work with a common groundā¦ the guide you wrote a few pages back is pretty confusing and I couldnāt understand itā¦ not only that, but it was designed for the D-Padā¦ I plan on using Madcats controllers, do the d-pad uses a common ground to begin with.
The issue is that I want to make my sticks with project boxes connected by DB25 connectorsā¦ however, 25 pins isnāt enough if I have to put a unique ground for every buttonā¦ so at worstā¦ this is what I wantā¦
1 ground forā¦ X Y A B (5 pins)
1 ground forā¦ LT RT (3 pins)
1 ground forā¦ LB RB (3 pins)
1 ground forā¦ U D L R (5 pins)
1 ground forā¦ Guide (2 pins)
1 ground forā¦ Back (2 pins)
1 ground forā¦ Start (2 pins)
Thats 22 pinsā¦ with 3 pins to spareā¦
ORā¦
X Y A B LT RT LB RB with unique grounds (16 pins)
1 ground for U D L R (5 pins)
1 ground for Guide Back Start (4 pins)
That would come to exactly 25 pinsā¦ I would think with a madcats controller I can do the action button and d-pad parts without any modificationsā¦ but I dont know if Guide/Back/Start all use a common groundā¦
First off, stop calling it a ground. How its done on the 360 controller is a bit different. Remember, weāre talking analog buttons, not digital. Secondly, they do share some commonalities, but not like you think. Look for posts by RDC on the xbox-scene forums; he put up some nice schematics showing how it works.
Youāre confusing how the digital inputs (D-Pad) work and how analog inputs (A, B, Y, X, etc) work.
The analog switch ICs connect two lines together based on the input signal. It doesnt care what they are or what theyāre for, it just either connects them, or doesnāt. Each analog ICs can control up to four pairs of lines. So if you need to have a d-pad and 8 buttons, you need 3 analog switch ICs. Just wire it up the same way; one wire into the analog IC, which controls the connection of the two wires from the xbox360 pcb. Repeat for each button and direction you want wired.
Trust me, I know what a project box setup is. I know what youāre trying to do. But if you canāt use what Iāve already written to do it, it may be beyond you. The xbox360 PCBās are simply a bitch.
Alright, thanks manā¦ like this?
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/4319/layoutwl4.png
I need two chipsā¦ SN74LS04N and SN74HC4066N at $0.50 each at Digikeyā¦ This image is a little confusingā¦ lets see if I understand itā¦
It looks likeā¦ SN74HC4066N
Pin1 to X1
Pin2 to X2
Pin3 to Y1
Pin4 to Y2
Pin5 to Pin4 on other chip (whats this for?)
Pin6 to Pin6 on other chip (whats this for?)
Pin7 to GND on 360 controller, GND on all buttons and Pin7/Pin13/Pin11 on other chip
Pin8 to A1
Pin9 to A2
Pin10 to B1
Pin11 to B2
Pin12 to Pin8 on other chip (whats this for?)
Pin13 to Pin2 on other chip (whats this for?)
Pin14 toā¦ nothingā¦ dont need a 5v VCC on buttons
then on the other chipā¦
Pin1 to positive on X button
Pin2 to Pin13 on other chip (whats this for?)
Pin3 to positive on Y button
Pin4 to Pin5 on other chip (whats this for?)
Pin5 to positive on A button
Pin6 to Pin6 on other chip (whats this for?)
Pin7 to Pin11/Pin13, GND on 360 controller, GND on all buttons and Pin7 on other chip
Pin8 to Pin12 on other chip (whats this for?)
Pin9 to positive on B button
Pin10 toā¦ nothing
Pin11 to Pin7/Pin13, GND on 360 controller, GND on all buttons and Pin7 on other chip
Pin12 toā¦ nothing
Pin13 to Pin7/Pin11, GND on 360 controller, GND on all buttons and Pin7 on other chip
Pin14 toā¦ nothingā¦ dont need a 5v VCC on buttons
So with a Madcats 360 controller I couldā¦
1 ground for XYAB with chips
1 ground for LB/RB/LT/RT (with chips, I heard there is something to do with resistors for this?)
1 ground for UDLR, no chips needed
1 ground for back/start/guide with chips
right? 3 chipsets needed?
oohh icā¦ well i just finished modding itā¦and it works well on my ps2
that was when i just bought it. and i just replaced the stick ball with a white one.
what it looked like 1st before modding, i already took out the joy
just a few more wires to goā¦i didnt use any disconnectors for nowā¦ cuz i was sorta eager to test it. but it works fine.
final. =] i will paint the aluminum later thoā¦so yeahā¦just for now.
i ordered a total control plus adapter. so im waiting for that to come inā¦so when it doesā¦ ill wire up the L1 and L2 buttonā¦but thanx for giving me that info
now im off to playing 3rd strike =]
so what you guys think?
Hey man Iām doing the exact same, except i havenāt got around to it yet. one question. you know when you open the stick, and how the actual stick part is wired with 2 wires for each direction. I think there is 2 red wires at the bottom, 2 red at the top,then the rest are yellow. how did u go about wiring the actual stick part, im having doubts there. when i look at your iring i see that the wires that were originally there for the stick part are gone and replaced. cool. i need some help wiring mine