if all the ground points aren’t linked together, it’s not common ground. In your case, some ground points will share with multiple directions/buttons, but they all don’t share the same ground.
Your best bet is to pull individual ground points for each button/input.
What’s the easiest way to get 4 grounds out of a JLF?
Replace the TP-MA PCB in your JLF with 4 separate micro switches, you will have to rewire the joystick harness or get a joystick wire harness adapter.
could I connect the ground wire from the harness to 4 different wires?
or desoldier the switches from the board?
2nd one is more of a option. The issue with the PCB is all the switches COM (Common) or ground as we call it are interconnected which does not lead well to boards that are not common ground.
But desoldering all the switches is a great deal of work. You are better off just cutting the traces on the PCB.
Still if you want the easiest option, just buy individual micro switches and a 5 pin joystick harness to .187 tabs adapter
has anyone pad hacked this yet? diagram? pics? i’ll be ordering soon just want to see what i’ll be dealing with.
I’m just going to soldier wire straight onto the posts on the PCB.
That’ll work, but you’ll have to make sure to sever the Ground trace on the JLF PCB so that it is no longer a common-ground PCB.
Yes, make sure you cut those traces very well. You do not want to leave a circuit path when you are done.
The thread’s here:
No pin out for it, but @Gummo is going to provide one.
Might sound a bit like a ridiculous question, and this thread’s been inactive a while, but do I need to use a butane soldering iron? I have an electric one, but I’d rather not fry the pad right at the start.
No. Any soldering iron should work provided it has a decent tip and gets hot.
What, where you get using a butane soldering iron from?
Use a electric soldering Iron that produce heat 99.99 of soldering irons out there. (avoid cold weld soldering guns as it uses electrical current not heat to solder and can fry boards.).
I get that from my complete lack of knowledge. Thanks for your answer, I’ll return if something else comes up
Is there a way to use the switch on the qanba q4 or te2 to use it for switching a pad hack instead of the ps3?
Has anyone managed to wire up the 3-way position switch on an xbox MadCatz Fight/Brawl pad
I’m specifically looking to remove and replace the incredibly tiny switch with a bigger one. The bigger switch would then be fitted somewhere reachable on the outside of a case/cabinet.
The switch on the PCB has 6 solder points but I’m not sure if all should be used or …?
/nano
I figured it out in case anyone’s interested:
2 is Ground
Get your self a 2P3T swith like this one and you are good to go
I assume you are speaking of the LS - DP - RS switch? Just set it to DP and forget it.
No console fighter (worth buying) does not use DP only LS. There no Fighting games that use RS.
Hi, so i finally got to own my first Madcatz TE 1 Stick PS3 and I intend to swap out the PCB with a SFXT Fighpad PS3 for Windows compatibility. I can safely follow along this guide which is for the swapping in the Paewang? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVA564Dq9ZY (Thanks to Mr Myers)
Sorry for double posting please remove this post =)
Hey ya’ll.
So, I’m trying to add a 360 Afterglow pcb to a PS3 Hori Fighting Edge as a dual mod. I got everything connected up but haven’t set up power to the touchpanel/led for Start/Select yet (not confident enough yet with that part).
In the mean time, I decided to test out what I’ve already done. Everything worked fine until I press the buttons wired up to the triggers (LT/RT). When I do that (connected to PC), the afterglow pcb disconnects and reconnects (with a flash of lights).
I rechecked my wiring and I don’t see anything unusual. Anyone got any tips please?
http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p529/chaoticmonk/360AfterglowTop.jpg
http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p529/chaoticmonk/360AfterglowBottom.jpg