*The "padhacking" thread*

ive go a few official dreamcast pads lying around, and i was thinking of padhacking them and selling my total converters as im getting a good offer for them

but googling the pads, the opinion is that dreamcast pad pcb is laggy??

i know i can buy the agetec stick/pcb but thats a bit out of my budget

any opinions on the pad pcb?

Ugh… Those Madcatz pads are frustrating me. I padhacked a 360 one for a friend a while back and while everything was working, from time to time, his character would randomly start walking forward for no reason and the only way to fix it was to unplug and re-plug the stick into the console.

This SFxT pad I just put in MY stick randomly kept hitting the Back button, so I ripped the Back button wire off the PCB. That seemed to fix the problem. Today, I sat down to play some Ultra to find that the RT button wouldn’t stop getting pressed, even after I unplugged the quick disconnects from the buttons. I had something similar happen with a Gamestop pad once. I didn’t catch it in the menus. A and B still worked to confirm and cancel, but when I was in Training Mode it was like the buttons were shorting themselves out. I had no working kick buttons. I switched the Punch & Kick X3 buttons to ā€œNo Functionā€, but then Roundhouse started going haywire. I guess my modding skills need work.

Any idea what causes this? How can you fix it?

How far back did you step your wires? Sounds like movement might be causing them to hit ground. Did you hot glue the joints?

RT and lt are being registered as being held down. A and b will work in menus but in game they won’t because of 3x k being held down. With 3x k held down you can’t do 1k or 2k because they are already being held down.

Pretty far. Maybe a centimeter? So when stripping the wire, go shorter?

Bingo. Try 4mm or so.

this thread is a monster! too much info… too much great info.

i’m doing my xbox 360 wireless to use with MAME (and the microsoft controller receiver for PC)

from the pic on the first page i assumed it was all common ground. and i also tested that i had continuity on all grounds… but now, the DPAD only RIGHT works using the common ground. and right triggers UP…

should I have used the dpad individual grounds? or a different common ground like for the triggers?

i still can’t believe my eyes because the multimeter confirm that i have continuity from each and every dpad ground to the trigger button (easiest common groud to solder) that i’m using…

If I were you, I’d mod a PS3 controller for MAME (The SFxT Mad Catz pad is a great choice and is only about $20 on Amazon). They almost ALWAYS work better on PC ANYWAY (ironically). You could also try using one of those Logitech PC controllers. They’re pretty affordable, too. In my experience, using controllers with triggers were always a headache. Having to use resistors and what not was always a pain for me. IMO, Anything without a trigger on it would be better to use, but I AM limited by my own modding capabilities. Try PMing a more experienced modder.

Now for MY question: Where’s everyone getting their fightpads from these days? I know that the Mad Catz fightpads are the go-to choice, but they’re getting harder and harder to find for decent prices (well, at least 360 pads).

I see a lot of PDP fightpads come up for PRETTY low prices. Are THOSE tough to mod? I don’t know the mechanics, but the circle pad makes me think that it would be tougher to mod than the Mad Catz controllers.

PDP pads are fine for mods where it’s the single PCB in the stick.
Unfortunately, the signals work in such a way that the common line is held high instead of low, so these pads are not suited for dual-mods at all without some extensive modification and circuit addition (that no one actually does, for practicality reasons more than anything).

Hello. I’m writing from Mexico, recently i’decided to build an arcade joystick using a DS3 PCB. I search for every source of information to do this in these forums and followed every advice (like giving it to a pro to solder to the pins) but i can only get 3 buttons to work, PSHOME, Select and Start. Those wich won’t work are the ones using the common grounds (D-pad,l2,l1 and x,o,/,[],l2 and l1).

I used this diagram to make the connections, i used 8.2 resistors without soldering via european style barrier strips. i’ve tried daisy chaining the and the twisting method to try to split the ground but nothing seems to work.

I’would appreciate every help given. And apology for bad english.

There are multiple versions of the Dual Shock 3 board

Anyways the link you have is for the Six Axis not the Dual Shock 3. The two controllers use two very different PCBs.

I used that image just as a reference mine is the dual shock 3 but since the pins are the same it has been used with success by a user of this forum named charliedrums i used all of the info he provided and i even have the same pcb as him. I already left him a message but the last time he was active on the forum was 4 months ago.

This is what i tried to replicate with no success I’ve followed every step and recommendation by step.

What I am trying to say the Dual Shock as two versions and there solder points are diffrent

Mine is version MSU_VX3 and here is the pin layout of the daughter board i used, basically they remained the same since the six axis version. Only the TP points have changed but i am not using them i soldered directly into those pins.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PS3%20Six-Axis%20and%20DS3/MSU_VX3_007Connection.jpg

Still i’m lost, i have tried everything. Thanks for helping!

Hey all, I’m new to padhacking and I’m actually wanting to start a project to make a custom controller for Project Diva f 2nd.

I have a DS3 that I can gut a PCB from and a Afterglow PS3 controller I can gut as well. I’d rather gut the Afterglow, since I still use my DS3 and the Afterglow I bought for $10 on clearance haha.

Are there any diagrams of the Afterglow PS3 controller PCB? or should I gut it first and post pictures cuz I have no idea what’s what.

All I know is that I just need the D-pad buttons, Triangle/Square/Circle/Cross, L1/R1 and Start/Select/Home on the controller. No analog needed. All of the buttons would be either 24mm or 30mm Sanwa buttons.

I don’t know how to solder but I’m sure I can learn the basics somewhere on the interwebs. I’ve read a lot about PCB’s being ā€œcommon-groundā€ and stuff about ā€œresistorsā€ but those are pretty foreign to me at the moment.

Yea, those two game pads you mention are not beginner friendly.

Look into geting either a Cthulhu (no soldering required) or a ZD PCB (no soldering if you order the right harness)

I’m going to crosspost my post from Gummowned’s PS4 pad hack thread(assuming that’s ok).

As one would imagine this refers to the pictures Gummowned provided in his thread.

Hey, I’ve got a JLF and buttons, and was planning to do a padhack with my old model wired 360 controller. I’m wondering if there’s any way to daisy chain the grounds of the buttons and still have it work correctly if I’m doing a padhack.

As long as the 360 pad’s PCB is common ground then Yes, you can daisy chain the grounds. gotta make sure it’s common ground.

The problem is that there’s more than one common ground. There’s like 6 different ones that each are for one or two buttons/directions.