Yeah, one side is the ground “circle,” the other is the signal “circle.” If you look on the SixAxis diagram, for example, You’ll notice a line that connects all of the outside points of L1/L2 and the d-pad: that should be a ground. Now, before you do this, I’d like someone else to confirm that you can use ANY single ground point on the FPC board (basically, confirm it’s common grounded.) The only reason I say that, is because when looking at that FPC board it does technically have multiple grounds, but I’m assuming what happens, is that they all trace to the main pcb and become common on THAT board, meaning it should be fine. But if someone could just say yes or no in case I don’t know wtf I’m talking about, I’d appreciate it. ;D
If someone could help me out please Trying to figure out if my old wired 360 controller is common ground.
Of these two (I don’t know which I have yet, haven’t cracked it open) …the EARLY version is the common ground one correct? Or are they both common ground?
Thanks
I actually have a question, if someone could help me out. I noticed that on a lot of the diagrams with analog triggers it says “set triggers to neutral.” Now, I know they are referring to the little “disc” that you can usually turn with a mini flathead screwdriver, that is also soldered (3 points) to the pcb, but is it possible to get around this? I just dont trust that the little disc won’t move someday, or fall out for that matter. So, if I remove the little “disc” with the rest of the triggers’ hardware, can I just desolder that little 3-pin housing, without any adverse effects? Or do I have to have the little analog disc piece actually set to neutral?
I’m doing this on a newer MadCatz Xbox 360 controller (the Call of Duty controller) because I got it really cheap. I just want to make sure that if I remove those pieces, nothing will happen.
Actually, same thing for the analog sticks: can I desolder them and remove the actuators? Or am I better off leaving them as is?
its very likely that your analogs will always go to the corner. the propper way to do it is to make a voltage divider that matches the total value across the outside lugs of the joystick. if the analog has 10k for x and 10k for y, you would need 4 5k resistors to make a dummy stick and another 4 resistors for the other analog stick.
What is paper thin? The board with the buttons and d-pad? I’m assuming it would be alright? I mean, you’re still soldering on metal contacts, so the heat shouldn’t get to / affect the board itself.
Anybody? I noticed that when I took the analog “discs” out from the triggers, instead of gluing them to zero, the Axis still shows “high,” and when I activate it, it slowly crawls towards zero. That means I DON’T have to invert them, correct?
Also, there are two buttons on the back that have little switches on them where you can set it to different things. I don’t care about switching them (and I’ll prolly glue them in place to be safe,) but what’s interesting is that they are showing up under Game Controllers > Properties as buttons 7+8. Any idea if I could just use those instead of the analog triggers, or does it even matter which one I use?
so I just got done hacking my brawl pad, and i decided to go with the Gamma layout (default Hori Xbox button layout), and I was wondering if it is normal to have one of the axises, probably X go from neutral to 0 or to 100, when pressing the LT and RT buttons because I didn’t test it before I hacked it. Also, i’m having a hard time finding the Home signal in the brawl pad, is it the one and only little copper circle in the middle before the big hole? thanks in advance guys!
thanks man, i must’ve shorted the connection so i have to desolder it, it’s a very small space. anyways, next time i’ll pay someone to do this cause i spent 12 hours doing this stuff haha, eff that!
Yes, that is what a Dual Mod is.
Or Tri Mid or Triple Mod or how many is added.
Remember that all PCB must be Common Ground.
All the VCC must be connected from PCB to PCB.
And the Ground be connected from PCB to PCB.
No Sony PlayStation 3 SIXAXIS or Dualshock 3 is Common Ground.
So cannot do what you are saying.
None of them.
The only Common Ground from Microsoft is the few Wireless ones.
Set to Neutral by just gluing down the spinning part.
That’s all.
Or if remove the Potentiometer (the 3-leg thing you say), then need to replace with Resistors.
Two Resistors will be needed for each Potentiometer.
High to Wiper and Wiper to Low.
Any Potentiometers on the Controller that are removed, will need Resistors to be in place.
Need to replace the Potentiometers with Resistors.
Measure the value of Ohm for the Potentiometers.
Do this with a multimeter probe on the outside legs.
Get the value.
Divide this by two.
This will be the Ohm of Resistors you need.
Remember the tiny dots shown in slagcoin diagram?
Solder to there.
yeah, i need to find a way to buy either that or settle with the Leo V2. tried to purchase axisdapter through godlikecontrols, it’ll cost me i think $18 for the axisdapter and $40 for the shipping fee
You can’t get non-EMS shipping? That really sucks. Well if shipping will be that much, then yeah I’d say get whatever is going to be cheapest. Remember you also have the option of just buying a MadCatz common ground controller which would make life much easier as well, and maybe you could even find one locally so you don’t have to pay a ton for shipping. Or, you could do like I did, and use ebay(?)
Can you specify what neutral is for triggers? Is that when the X Axis Bar is right in the middle? I can’t figure what direction the spinning parts should be “pointing” to. Also, I don’t plan on neutralizing them, I want to use them.
Also, on a side note, for the MCZ Call of Duty controller I’m using, when I take the spinning pieces out, and leave the pots in, it looks like they are in neutral (right in the center.) how could I safely test if using them that way is an option?
To prevent any “accidental” movement on the left analog stick, do you think we should just glue it in place?
it’s hard to find a madcatz pad that’s cheap here as well and besides i’d already torn apart my dual shock 3 just want to build something from scratch. nyways i’ll update you guys
The Madcatz wired 360 pad that I originally used in my 360 project box cartridge for my stick seems to have died. I’m looking for a cheap replacement. Anyone have any experience with the $15 knockof 360 pads that are all over ebay? Common ground? Or just not worth bothering with?
Trying to figure out if my old wired 360 controller is common ground.
because it’s paper thin 
they’re too small for me to be able to solder
Also, I don’t plan on neutralizing them, I want to use them.