well u can always just cut a little view window into the male connecter to c where the pins go. thats what i did once and i didn’t have to completely open the male connecter.
Does anyone have the layout for the HRAP EX SE PCB? I pulled mine out and put a PS2 PCB in there and now I need to swap them back again lol.
Not exactly a pad, but yeah.
try checking the HRAP EX threads to c if they can help u out but if not than try google, and if that doesn’t help ether than just do a quick once over on ur PCB for the HRAP cause they should have writing on them to help u out, but other than that i have no idea where u can get help from.
sorry if this doesn’t help u out but if it does than power to u and good luck.
I actually just got it all figured out by plugging the pad in and shorting each wire to find out which button was which lol.
kool
Nope, not yet, i’m trying to ask Joytron about this issue, they said the PCB could get update, maybe it can be flashed again to solve the issue. i’ll get in touch with you once i get an answer
So, my HRAP EX-SE has a bad PCB. Every single feature on the stick works PERFECTLY except for the “up” signal. I spent hours meticulously desoldering and resoldering the wires to each of the 8 terminals for the joystick, only to find that “up” still will not work, no matter what I do (except for crossing the 2 wires for “up” plus the next wire over, for a total of 3 crossed wires for 1 input).
I bought a brawlpad today for $20, and would like to get started on doing a padhack. Here’s two pictures I found of the exact same PCB:
http://ourguildhome.com/images/sfpad1.jpg
http://ourguildhome.com/images/sfpad2.jpg
Are there any wiring diagrams out there for this PCB? I bought it because it’s supposed to be easier than using a Mad Catz 4716, with all that messy trigger inversion stuff.
After I’ve got wires going from each of the signal terminals, I’m supposed to “daisy chain” the ground wire from each quick connect, right?
Also, any advice for wiring the microphone port? The HRAP EX-SE has 4 wires in a ribbon cable coming out from the mic port onboard the stick, but this PCB has the mic port soldered onto the chip. If I manage to get the mic port off, how can I tell which order the wires should be in to regain mic support?
1st off u need to c if the PCB is a common ground board, so break out that Multimeter and check it out.
2nd check the connection on the PCB and the connection for the mic on the HRAP also, once u figure out the wire layout in the HRAP al u need to do is connect those wire to the following connection points to the brawlpad PCB. the brawl PCB should have the points for the mic marked out on the board itself next to the mic points.
good luck with that and let me know if this was any help to u and show use ur work when ur done with the wiring of the PCB.
Isnt the Brawlpad the same as the Street Fighter IV pads? If so look at page 84 in this thread. There is also this:
The mapping pictures missing in that thread are reposted on page 84 but here they are:
If someone could confirm the WWE brawlpads are the same that would help. I just bought 2 myself.
LB and RB and LT and RT moved around.
But the soldering is still same.
PCB is labeled too.
I guess this is technically a padhack… anyone here know offhand if theres a trace on the bottom of the PS3 TEs pcb where I can get at the home button? Worst case I get at it with 30 gauge wire, i’d rather not run it to the top though.
Damn I hate PS3 > 360+MCC mods.
Next to the black IC blob, you will see two copper circles to solder to.
One circle for Home, one circle for Turbo.
Home is S, Turbo is 1.
I hope you mean 2 when you say s :<
2 can look like S.
S can look like 2.
The Home is what is not 1.
And will always be the one right next to the IC blob.
This is for the pad warriors out there…
A Mad Catz Fight Pad (6-button layout) with the microswitch technology of the Marvel vs. pad (from PDP Gaming). Microswitch the D-Pad (instead of that weird thumb thingy the came up with for the PDP pad) and microswitch the buttons. I’ll gladly pay someone for that pad hack.
I wanna hack my xbox 360 wireless controller. Has anyone done this before, have any advice?
[FONT=Helvetica]Hi I was wondering if anyone could help me out? I need an alternate soldering point for the Right direction on the madcatz controller pcb board. The point is scraped off and I’ve tried soldering it again but I had no luck. Is there another soldering point for it? Thx heres a pic just in case.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/526/img0832v.jpg/[/FONT]
hey guys I have a question that I cant seem to find info on
I have the late model 4716 the one that does not need the hex just the 10k resistors and its connected to the Cthulhu+Imp.The issue I’m having is when I hit the LT it moves the analog instead of the 4 punch button. I also neutralize left and right anlog with eight 4.7k resistors the right trigger seems to be functioning fine al this has been verified on the pc
Which ‘analog’? Can you post up a screenshot from the control panel applet for pressed and not pressed?
So it’s the jittering of the cursor in the X axis/Y axis area you’re worried about? And it’s happening when the button is pressed and not when unpressed? That’s weird to me, because I’d expect it to happen when the button is unpressed.
At any rate, when I’ve seen that behavior, it’s always been a voltage type a problem, usually the pad wigging out because one of the analog lines is being held at a higher voltage than its expecting. I think the easiest solution is to use a diode between the trigger signal and the button, with the diode marking ‘band’ on the end away from the trigger signal.