Damn dude, I wish everybody could take pics like you.
Red is Contact
Blue is Ground
Right Mikei, I got that. But does that mean I can cut off the little L and R wires and throw those pcbs away? To save space. And can I get rid of the analog pcb too?
People just gotta learn to not hold the camera half an inch away from their subject unless itâs got a macro mode. A close-up is pointless if itâs all blurry. =p
Triggers, yes. Analog, no. Taking the analog off will usually cause problems.
You can cut off and toss the trigger boards, but you canât cut off and toss the analog board. You gotta keep the analog board attached.
Thanks. Man itâs as if Sony/MS/Sega/etc didnât envision us ripping their products apart and morphing them into sticks one day. 
Hey guys, I just recently hacked a Dual Impact game pad made by Performance, and ran into some trouble. I have the standard T5 buttons and stick and tried quick connecting them. I may have some problems with the buttons but as of right now my main concerns are the connections with my stick. Each different direction appears to input correctly, so I thought I was good. But later I realized that inputting quarter and half circle movements were a lot harder than before. Same thing for dashing and backdashin. Messing around with it, I suspect there is lag. I will go into Guilty Gearâs training mode set it to show me what inputs it is reading and when I do qc and hc movements, It will often miss atleast one input. When I try dashing the input will be read, but I only dash every now and then. Because I thought my connections were good I already hot glued them on the PCB, but Iâm sure I all be able to get it off. But regardless I donât know what is the main culprit.
What are some causes of lag (assuming lag is my problem and not something else)? Could it be a bad soldering job when I connected the wires to the PCB? If so well then, darn it, how good of a soldering job does it have to be? I thought I did pretty good.
I may also mention that I was unable to get all of the solder off of the stickâs prongs from where the original T5 PCB wires were connected. Is that a problem?
Another thing is, is it necessary for all of the of the copper strands in each individual wire to be touching the metal of the quick disconnect to to get a fast and accurate readings?
These are just a few guesses as to what could be causing my directional movements to be so difficult to execute.
- Lag is caused when the controller doesnât send the status of the stick accurately and fast. Its a controller software thing.
- Nope, a bad soldering job cant cause lag.
- As long as the wires or solder isnât shorting against something else, nope, not a problem. If it was, youâd notice it, because a certain direction would always be pressed, or pressing one directions would cause multiple directions to be pressed.
- No, its not neccessary. You should try your best anyways, to prevent shorting.
Yep. Iâm not sure who built my friendâs custom stick, but I was trying to swap out PCBs for him and I needed some thicker wire than the wire that was already in the stick. So while replacing it with my own wire, I noticed that whoever made the stick had decided not to get the 5-pin connector wire that is available for the Sanwa JLFs, and instead they soldered wire to the JLFâs circuit board, here:
http://www.auburn.edu/~goldema/orig.jpg
Once I removed his wire and tried to solder my wire back in the same spot, the contact areas were so small and close together it was insanely hard to do! Maybe I need a more intricate soldering iron, or steadier hands or something, but I couldnât keep the solder separated. Seeing that the solder was touching each other, I assumed the stick was gonna be screwy, but I plugged it in to make sure. Yep. Pressing down went down, and pressing right also went down. I couldnât ever go right heh. So I de-soldered all that crap and re-soldered here:
http://www.auburn.edu/~goldema/mine.jpg
This was loads easier. I probably could have done it blindfolded. Worked like a charm. Not sure why the original stick maker didnât do it like that, unless he was just showing off his fine soldering skills. =p
So is it safe to say that its the actual pad? If so great, so I should just get a ps1 pad instead? I didnât see much knowledge about the PS2 pad. A lot of people here seems to suggest the PS1 dual shock. Is that my best bet?
Hell no son, get a Universal PCB 
Some people say that Dual Shock 1âs have better converter compatibility than PSX digital bads, but Iâve never had it be a problem; hell, the HRAP2 reports itself as a digital pad. Use either a Dual Shock 1 or a digital, whichever you can afford or is easier to hack for you. Dont bother trying to hack a Dual Shock 2, its just not worth the hassle, and thereâs a lot of hassle.
k cool
hey TMO could you show me exactly where i should be soldering this stuff to now im on a JLF with just the 5 pin connector i tryed what toodles saidâŚ
i never really understood him because you just cant solder any where for some reason but if you could write it on a pic of that i would be so happy : )
Iâm about to attempt my first hackâŚ
Ok, i opened up a PS1 Analog DS 1200
Can someone mark where to do the solderâŚIâm going to be using this on my street fighter arcade cabinet that has a PS2 in itâŚI have no select button, so would i just not solder that? Also can i just use the wires that was use on the original control panel? What about the L & R buttons?
Hereâs the back
So, Iâm working on my offical MS 360 padhack and things are going reasonably well. Iâve made toodlesâ circuit, Iâve managed to solder to the buttons but iâm having a little trouble with the d-pad. I exposed the tiny copper dots (for lack of a better term) that are at the edge of the interlocked fingers but theyâre so small and Iâm clearly not experienced enough at soldering to get anything to stick. Anyone got any tips for this unique task? Being so small I canât heat and apply solder without it all just being pulled/sucked away by the iron when i remove it from the point. And just trying to attach a tinned wire doesnât give nearly enough joint strength.
Pod
Ok am about to commit suicide right now,:annoy: i opened a dual shock ps1 grey controlley that said Series A, and the damm thing looks like a ps2 pad:annoy:
what the hell, its freaking hard to find ps1 controllers.:annoy:
now i got 2 dead ps2 controllers that i messed up cause of tyny connections, and now i got a ps1 dualshock that looks similar like the other 2:sad:
the good news is that it has less contacts to solder to and is less crowded like the ps2 dualshocks:sad:
now the only thing holding me back is i have no idea wich contact on the ribbon is wich button and directions:annoy: argggggggggggggggggggâŚ:wasted:
Series A works, you just have to do Spiffyshoes solderless hack. More fiddly but no soldering needed.
What I do is I position my wires over/near the copper dots, then hot glue the wires in place so that they donât move around when I do the actual soldering. This also helps in keeping the wire from breaking the tiny contact off the pcb.
Good idea.
Is super glue ok? Iâve already spent more than Iâd hoped on this project and would rather not fork out more for a glue gun I may only use once.
And I know what you mean about lifting the pads. I just pulled up one of the buttons copper pads 
Leaves me with yet another tiny dot to aim for,
Pod
ok, so i stoped panicking and started soldering today in the morning, i managed to pull it off, even thought it looks kinda of ugly:looney: i havent tested anything yet, but am crossing my fingers that hopefully it works otherwiseâŚ:wasted:
i managed to find out wich contact belongs to wich, the weird thing about this pcb, is that, ANALOG,START & SELECT are connected to their own ground, and then there are 2 other grounds where everything else is connected to i suppose:looney: